Adapalene is known as a substance that helps get rid of juvenile acne (acne) and comedones. But recently it has been actively used in cosmetology as an anti-aging skin product. The impetus for this development of events was given by the program “Health” with Elena Malysheva on Channel One. Part of the broadcast was devoted to the topic of using Adapalene anti-wrinkle cream. The drug belongs to the group of dermatological products and was not declared as anti-aging. Therefore, before using it for an indirect purpose, you must carefully read the instructions and weigh the pros and cons.
Release form: adapalene
Composition and release form Adapalene
In pharmacy chains, Adapalene is sold in the form of a cream or gel. It is a homogeneous white or transparent substance with a peculiar odor. The packaging is standard - a tube with a capacity of 15 or 30 g, packed in a cardboard box with instructions included inside. The concentration of the active substance is 0.1%. In addition to Adapalene, the drug contains:
- methyl 4-hydroxybenzoate;
- propylene glycol;
- disodium salt of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid;
- sodium hydroxide;
- acrylic acid polymer;
- poloxamer 188;
- glycol ether;
- water.
These are all excipients that are designed to enhance the effect of the active component - Adapalene. It is a synthetic analogue of tretinoin (retinoic acid), made from naphthenic acid. The ingredient has anti-inflammatory and cleansing properties, which means a cream based on it will help eliminate infectious processes on the skin and remove “blackheads.”
Creams with adapalene on the Russian market
Popular creams with adapalene are produced under the following brands:
- Differin – Laboratoires Galderma, France, gel and cream 30 grams
- Clenzit – Lenmark Pharmaceuticals Ltd., India 15 and 30 grams
- Adaklin – Ranbaxy Laboratories Limited, India 30 grams
These drugs contain 0.1-0.3% of the active substance. A 30-gram tube will contain 3 milligrams of adapalene plus additives and excipients. Adapalene itself is effective in accelerating the regeneration of epithelial cells, natural exfoliation of the surface layer of the skin and opening the pores of the skin. These effects make adapalene an anti-wrinkle agent in anti-aging therapy.
Pharmacology
Doctors admit that the effects of Adapalene have not been fully studied. Clinical studies have shown that topical application stimulates proper keratinization (keratinization) and differentiation of follicular epithelial cells. Failures in these processes lead to inflammation, acne formation and clogged pores. The result of stimulation is the alignment of keratin production and deposition, causing the upper layers of the skin to become more elastic. This feature allows you to use Adapalene gel or cream against wrinkles.
Skin regeneration occurs
In fact, the active component of the cream is an artificial analogue of vitamin A. But the principle of its effect is radically different. The substance interacts with tretinoin receptors, but does not come into contact with the proteins that bind it. This selectivity does not allow keratonocytes to adhere to the follicles, which promotes rapid exfoliation of the stratum corneum and skin regeneration.
Like any other anti-aging cosmetic product for external use, Adapalene can only affect shallow wrinkles. In other cases, it is recommended to resort to more radical methods.
Which is better, adapalene cream or gel?
The manufacturer brings the drug to the market in two states of aggregation: gel and cream. The composition of the gel is no different from the cream, the percentage of adapalene is the same in both, and the release in two forms was created only for ease of use for different skin conditions
- If the skin is dry and sensitive to external influences, use the cream structure of the drug. The cream is easier to apply to the skin; there will be no problems with its sensitivity. The effect will be better, the cream will moisturize and nourish the top layer and there should be no allergic reaction
- If you have oily skin, use a gel. The impact will be stronger, and the effect will appear faster
Conditions for obtaining the effect of adapalene
- Correct application of the drug
- Complex treatment
- Duration of use of the drug;
- Consultations on the use of adapalene with a dermatologist or cosmetologist
How to use adapalene
The method of use will depend on the purpose for which the product is used. To eliminate acne, the cream is applied pointwise to the site of inflammation or comedones. Adapalene can greatly dry out the skin, so in adolescence (and it is during this period that acne most often appears) the product must be used extremely carefully. Otherwise, you can provoke increased dryness.
Facial skin begins to look younger
Adapalene should be used differently to get rid of wrinkles:
- It is better to carry out the procedure in the evening before the weekend;
- cleanse the skin of impurities and cosmetics;
- remove moisture from the face with a towel;
- apply the product in a thick layer without rubbing;
- in case of contact with mucous membranes (eyes, mouth, nose), rinse quickly with water;
- leave for one and a half to two hours;
- rinse with warm water.
Apply cream in dots
The next day the skin will turn red, and the next day it will begin to actively peel off. This is how the drying effect of the composition manifests itself. During this period, you can start using light moisturizers. The main thing is not to try to remove peeling from the face by mechanical means, wipe with alcohol solutions, use foundation - this can cause inflammation and even scars. For a visible result to appear, at least three procedures must be performed. But not in a row - the break between sessions should be at least a month.
For some time after the procedure, you should not expose the treated areas of skin to the sun's rays. During this period, the epithelium is very sensitive to ultraviolet radiation.
TV show is not the ultimate truth
In general, you need to understand that the program “Live Healthy!” It does not aim to teach viewers anything.
The task of Elena Malysheva and Channel One is to make a show, a rating program, and for this they are ready to voice and show any nonsense.
For high ratings, “revelations” are best suited.
There is a huge category of people to whom you just tell that there is about to be some kind of revelation, for example, about cosmetic products - and with bulging eyes and ears spread out like cows, they will listen and believe every word.
Such viewers do not have critical thinking, do not know and do not understand that revelations can also be fake, illiterate or biased in order to discredit some and show others in a favorable light.
Features of the impact
The effect of Adapalene is similar to peeling, which removes the upper keratinized layer of the epidermis. This stimulates cell regeneration, collagen production, and the result is a visual reduction in the depth of wrinkles and skin tightening. A lasting effect is observed after 3-4 procedures. Adapalene cream, used for wrinkles or acne, may cause local irritation. Therefore, during the period of its use, it is recommended not to use scrubs, medicated soaps, or cleansers based on ethyl alcohol. You cannot use other drying or irritating agents in parallel with Adapalene.
Adapalene is not absorbed into the blood through the skin
The product does not have any negative effects on human internal organs, since it is practically not absorbed into the blood through the skin. Testing on rats has shown that Adapaleno can cause thyroid cancer and adrenal tumors. But the animals were fed doses several times higher than the maximum permissible for humans. When used externally, no carcinogenic effects were detected. This is only possible with a significant overdose, but for this the drug must be ingested in a very large quantity. And since Adapelene is not absorbed into the blood, the possibility of an overdose is extremely low.
Malysheva about adapalene anti-wrinkle cream
Elena Malysheva believes that adapalene is the only cream in the world that can remove wrinkles. There are millions of creams on sale, in a variety of bases, but most of them are emblazoned with the hopeful inscription “anti-wrinkle.” According to Elena Vasilievna, this is all fiction. Adapalene is not just a cream, it is a medicine. And it is sold only as a medicine. And this active substance can save us from age-related skin defects. These medications, which were sold by prescription until 2016, could always be bought in Russia without a doctor's prescription in pharmacies. What does this cream do? It actually has two mechanisms of action. If you want to get rid of wrinkles with it, you need to remove dead skin. This is done to expose the young layers of the dermis. This same adapalene (international non-proprietary name) restores collagen. They prevent wrinkles from forming. The skin tightens again, notes Elena Malysheva.
Contraindications and side effects
Like any other drug, Adapelen has its contraindications. It is not recommended to use the cream:
- during pregnancy and lactation;
- in the presence of wounds, irritation and tumors on the skin;
- in case of individual intolerance or allergic reaction to any of the components of the composition;
- children under 12 years of age.
If you have any skin diseases, you should consult a doctor before using the drug. Dermatitis, seborrhea, eczema are serious contraindications to the use of the product. It can cause an exacerbation or complication of the disease.
Aggressive effects of adapalene through the skin
Adapelen cream has a rather aggressive effect on the skin, so it can provoke an atypical reaction. Most often, patients complain about:
- received sunburn;
- allergic reactions;
- irritation, itching, burning;
- swelling, redness.
The use of the drug must be stopped immediately as soon as one of the listed signs appears on the skin. This is necessary so as not to harm your health and not ruin your appearance irrevocably.
Effects of adapalene on the skin
Some ingredients penetrate the skin, others do not.
Healthy skin is a strong barrier, so many cosmetic ingredients cannot penetrate the skin and actually remain within the stratum corneum.
But! Firstly, this does not mean that they are useless.
And secondly, there are cosmetic ingredients that overcome the epidermal barrier and penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin.
500 Dalton rule
There is a 500 Dalton rule, which states that ingredients with a low molecular weight - below 500 Daltons - are able to overcome the barrier properties of the skin and penetrate deeper layers.
In addition to molecular weight, there are other characteristics that matter. There are also different ways to increase skin permeability:
- skin can be injured
- you can create occlusion,
- enhancers can be used
- delivery systems,
- phonophoresis,
- iontophoresis.
But these are already nuances. The main thing is that there are still cosmetic ingredients, such as:
- retinol (molecular weight 286 Dalton),
- glycolic acid (total 76 Daltons),
which independently penetrate into the deep layers of the skin without our help.
And a chemical filter such as Benzophenone-3 (aka Oxybenzone) can not only overcome the epidermal barrier, but also negatively affect our endocrine system. Apparently this ingredient knows nothing about the prohibition “Do not penetrate beyond the stratum corneum.”
By the way, I discussed this and many other interesting topics in detail in my book “55 Mistakes in Facial Care.”
Take a piece of bread and spread butter on it. Do you see? The cream does not penetrate the skin. Proven!
Analogues of Adapalene
Cream or gel with Adapelene is an affordable product. Its price ranges from 250-500 rubles per 30 g. Pharmacies sell several types of the drug, differing in some ingredients, but with similar properties. Among the most popular are:
- Adaklin (India) - regular application eliminates inflammatory processes, cleanses pores, the skin is smoothed and acquires an even natural color;
- Differin (France) - identical in effect to Adapalene, since this component is the active substance. Regulates the production of sebum, corrects keratinization of the epidermis, and stops the spread of acne. Efficiency is increased by adding antibiotics to the composition;
- Adolen (Russia) - available in gel form. Chemical components are similar to Adapalene. Designed for the treatment of acne. It is recommended to apply daily before bed without rubbing. A stable result will appear after three months of use, which is a good result in the treatment of this type of disorder;
- Clenzit (India) - can be used to treat severe acne. May be addictive, so use only as prescribed by a doctor.
All drugs are available in pharmacies and are available without a prescription. Any of them is suitable for the rejuvenation procedure, because they are similar in chemical composition and the concentration of the active substance is the same.
Effects of adapalene against acne
Relief ointment (Greece) differs in ingredients, but has a similar anti-aging effect. Its components have the following effects:
- metabolic processes in the epidermis are stimulated, helping to better supply cells with oxygen and nutrients;
- wounds are healed, swelling is eliminated;
- the skin is toned and elasticity increases;
- wrinkles are smoothed out.
This is achieved due to the presence of natural shark oil extracted from the liver and phenylephrine hydrochloride. The first active component has a regenerative and wound-healing effect. But it is also a source of a fairly noticeable fishy odor, which some users consider to be a disadvantage. The second main ingredient stimulates blood circulation, improving the nutrition of skin cells. Relief is recommended to be applied every night to previously cleansed skin. After a week of continuous use, you need to take a break. The price of this product is comparable to Adapalene.
Before purchasing Relief ointment, you need to familiarize yourself with the composition. In preparations from other manufacturers, shark oil can be replaced with mineral oils.
Using adapalene against blackheads
Conclusion
Cream with Adapalene can definitely be used to treat acne and blackheads. It was originally developed for these purposes. The new use, which was not intended by the developers, is in some way reminiscent of the history of Viagra. The most popular erectile stimulant today was created as a cardiac remedy to improve blood flow in the myocardium. But if in the case of Viagra, clinical trials have fully confirmed its beneficial effect on potency, then with Adapalene the situation is somewhat different.
The effectiveness of Adapalene against wrinkles is confirmed only by reviews of cosmetologists and women who have tested its work on themselves. No one has done serious research in this direction. And this is more of a folk method, rather than a medical one. And responsibility for the consequences of unconventional use will be entirely on those who decide to use an acne remedy for skin rejuvenation.
