Chemical peeling for the face - what is it, indications, contraindications - consultation with a cosmetologist at the MEDSI Clinic

Chemical peeling is iatrogenic damage to certain layers of the epidermis and/or dermis.

In response to damage, a huge amount of pro-inflammatory mediators, growth factors, and biologically active substances are released, which leads to the activation of protective regenerative mechanisms, an increase in the metabolic and mitotic activity of basal keratinocytes and fibroblasts. The expected effects of the chemical peeling procedure are improvement of the appearance of the skin: color, smoothing of the skin profile, improvement of micro- and macrorelief, activation of reparative processes, increased synthesis of epidermal lipids and extracellular structures of the dermal matrix. The effect depends more on the depth of skin damage and less on the chemical preparation. The stimulating effect of chemical peeling is indirect. This is the skin's reaction to inflammation that develops as a result of skin damage.

Classification

• Superficial peeling (within the stratum corneum) minimal inflammatory reaction, m/painful, the safest. AHA, aβ-complexes, phytic, Jaisner, 1-15% TCA.
• Median (within the Malpighian layer). Medium peeling is accompanied by necrosis of the Malpighian layer, with the development of a pronounced inflammatory reaction (hyperemia, edema) and severe peeling; the rehabilitation period is 7-14 days. Allows you to change (smooth) micro- and macrorelief. Recommended for the correction of superficial wrinkles, enlarged pores, post-acne, and stretch marks. 15-25% TCA, combined TCA + enzyme (papain), Blue peel, Krulig peeling, phenol.
• Deep (with damage to the papillary dermis)

The only type of peeling that allows you to correct wrinkles, a high risk of scarring, rehabilitation up to 1.5 years. 25-50% TCA, phenol up to 40% - the “gold standard” of peeling. The most effective, the most toxic. It has a selective cytotoxic effect on melanocytes - recommended for the correction of hyperpigmentation.

User reviews

• Katya, 23 years old: “I was treated for acne for a long time, and when I achieved what I wanted, I was faced with post-acne. I tried to get rid of this defect using various means, but nothing helped. Not long ago I found out that you can take a course of cleansing with fruit acids, so I decided to try it. At the appointment, the cosmetologist determined that I needed to do 8 procedures and said that she would start with a composition of 15%, gradually increasing it. During the entire course I did not experience any discomfort, rehabilitation lasted almost 2 weeks - during this time there was peeling and redness. When the skin recovered, I saw no trace of my illness.”
• Sveta, 28 years old: “Cleansing with fruit acids perfectly eliminates facial and shallow age wrinkles, evens out the complexion and normalizes the functioning of the sebaceous glands. Every year, for 3 years, I do a course of 5 procedures - the skin looks at least 10 years younger.”
• Elena, 32 years old: “I cleanse my face with orange at home - it helps my face stay wrinkle-free and maintain a healthy skin color. Most often I do this mask 3-5 days before important events, and I always look impeccable at them.”

Properly performed peeling with AHA acids will help you get rid of inflammation, small scars and unevenness, and also maintain youthful skin for a long time.

Rating

Superficial chemical peeling AHA

When talking about superficial chemical peeling, we primarily mean peeling with AHA, or fruit acids.

The first mention of cutaneous use of AHA dates back to 1974. Van Scotch and Yu, studying the effect of various drugs for ichthyosis, found that glycolic acid is able to control the processes of keratinization of the epidermis, weakening the adhesion between corneocytes. Subsequently, the therapeutic effectiveness of ANA was established for all forms of hyperkeratosis.

The AHA group includes: glycolic, lactic, apple, tartaric, lemon

The best peelings with AHA acids for home use: a list of the best

Today there are quite a lot of products on the market that allow you to carry out AHA peeling at home. However, users also have their favorites. Let's find out which products are considered the best.

• Biomatrix Mindalin

Biomatrix Mindalin
It has an acidity of 50%. The pH is 1.5. The product is intended for professional use. Moreover, it is suitable for any skin and the procedure can be performed at any time. A distinctive feature of the product is the ability to eliminate blackheads and narrow pores. Mandelic acid renews the skin and normalizes sebum production. At the same time, it evens out the complexion and reduces pigmentation. Among other things, wrinkles are smoothed out and oily shine disappears. After use, treat your skin with creams with SPF, and before use, thoroughly cleanse your skin to prevent flaking.

• Arabia Professional

Aravia Professional
This product is based on lactic acid. The composition is also intended for professional use. It has a deep effect and is also suitable for skin that is prone to dryness and oiliness. The product activates cell regeneration and also improves blood circulation in the face. Most girls note a good moisturizing effect. After using the product, the pores narrow and blackheads lighten. At the same time, peeling of the skin is not observed, and post-acne lesions become less visible. Experts recommend the product because it works effectively and at the same time carefully.

• MI&KO Poppy

MI&KO Poppy
An excellent product for home use. It has a consistency similar to a thick cream. It fits nicely on the face and spreads over the surface. According to customers, this product is worthy of use. Moreover, its cost is relatively low. Peeling does a great job of removing clogged pores.

• OZ! OrganicZone

OZ!
OrganicZone Comes in a dark bottle with an easy-to-use dispenser. The product is suitable for independent use. The formula contains a combination of several acids - citric, succinic, tartaric, malic, as well as lemon extract. Thanks to this composition, dead cells are exfoliated, and the skin is whitened and moisturized. As a result, the face is clean and free of chemical burns. In general, the tone is evened out, unevenness disappears, and the pores are slightly narrowed. By the way, after this product the foundation lies smoothly on the skin.

• Fitness Model with gold powder

Fitness Model with gold powder
Despite the fact that the product is homemade, it works no worse than in the salon. The composition includes fruit acids and gold powder. This combination can reduce pigmentation, stimulate cellular renewal, smooth out wrinkles and enhance collagen production. Pineapple and papaya enzymes in the composition allow you to even out your complexion and tighten your skin. This peeling is suitable for different ages, and its price makes the product accessible to everyone.

Indications for use

Biological aging of the skin. Almost all types of peelings are used to correct signs of aging. The choice of one procedure or another is determined primarily by the severity of cosmetic defects. ANA peeling optimal age 23-30 years (prevention of aging), no correction of age-related changes. Number of procedures 4-6, ANA concentration 50-70% Additional components: antioxidants

Photoaging is changes in the skin under the influence of UV rays. 50-70% ANA, number of sessions 8. The most promising is the combination of ANA with antioxidants and whitening agents.

Pigmentation -

• dyschromia - 70% ANA, amount 8. Optimally αβ-complexes
• chloasma, hyperpigmentation - it is recommended to use AHA up to 50%, as inflammation can cause increased pigmentation. Pre-peel preparation is required to reduce the risk of increased hyperpigmentation, includes the use of phytic acid 3-10%, combined preparations of glycolic acid + kojic acid, ascorbic acid, glabridin, antioxidants that reduce inflammation are recommended, and the use of UV filters is mandatory. Number of sessions 8.
• Comedonal, papulopustular form of acne. Initially, the use of ANA for acne vulgaris was limited exclusively to the treatment of post-eruptive hyperpigmentation and scarring. This was the only method for correcting secondary skin changes in this disease, which is possible even against the background of unresolved inflammatory elements. Subsequent clinical observations showed that the use of this group of drugs significantly accelerated the relief of the inflammatory process and extended the time of remission

Opinion of cosmetologists

• Anastasia Zaslavskaya, dermatologist, cosmetologist: “Peeling with AHA acids will help you forget about age-related changes for a long time and cleanse even deep impurities. The procedure rarely leads to side effects or complications; the main thing is to follow all recommendations for caring for the dermis during its recovery. I remind my clients not to forget to use nourishing and soothing products every day, and to always use high-protection sunscreen before going outside.”
• Elena Apostolyuk, cosmetologist: “Preliminary preparation plays a big role in the obtained effect of cleansing ANA with acids. A few weeks before visiting a cosmetologist, you need to stop tanning and treat your skin daily with a professional product with a minimum concentration of fruit acids.”

Medium chemical peels

TCA (15-25%) is a keratolytic, causing protein coagulation. Non-toxic substance.

When applied to the skin, TCA causes the formation of a frost effect. Depending on the depth of necrosis, the following types of frost effect are distinguished:

• Pink frost: “pointed” - throughout the entire depth of the stratum corneum; “clouds” - granular layer
• White (milky): translucent film - the border of the granular and spinous layer
• White deaf, compact: up to the basement membrane, dermal papillae
• Solid white with a yellowish/greenish tint: up to the reticular layer (there will be a scar in this place).

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Skin renewal, sebum-regulating and anti-inflammatory effects can be achieved with beta hydroxy acids (BHA) and salicylic acid. They dissolve sebaceous plugs inside the follicles and have an antiseptic effect, which narrows pores and intensively fights inflammation.

Contraindications

Absolute:

• Dermatoses in the acute stage (especially herpes infection)
• IV,V,VI skin phototype
• Tendency to form hypertrophic and keloid scars
• Rehabilitation period after other cosmetic procedures (Botox - 14 days, microimplants - 1 week, laser resurfacing, dermabrasion - no earlier than 1 year)
• Pregnancy, nursing (painful procedure)
• Mentally labile patients.
• Thin, sensitive skin with reduced regeneration

Relative: nevi, rosacea, hypertrichosis, spring-summer period

Expected skin reactions occurring immediately after a chemical peel (1-14 days):

• Edema. Most often, swelling and pastiness develop with deep peels. With superficial peeling, swelling is moderate or absent. It develops on the first day after the procedure, reaches a maximum on the 3rd day, and disappears by the 5th day. The severity of edema varies for each patient; it most often develops in people with thin and loose skin. It is extremely rare that after deep peels, significant swelling of the eyelids, neck and upper chest may develop. But there is never any swelling of the upper respiratory tract or any systemic damage after a chemical peel. There is no need to prescribe special therapy for the treatment of edema. Prophylactic administration of steroids does not prevent the development of edema. Although a number of authors recommend the use of glucocorticoids in a short course, both intravenously (during the procedure) and orally for 5 days, because this can significantly reduce swelling. As a rule, cold compresses are used more often to prevent swelling of the eyelids.
• Hyperemia. With superficial and medium peels, the erythema is moderate and disappears by 3-4 days. With deep peeling, erythema may persist for up to 1-2 months after the procedure. The most pronounced erythema occurs after laser resurfacing and dermabrasion. It appears immediately after the procedure. After 7-10 days, its intensity decreases, but it can persist for up to several months. This is due to the fact that during these procedures the dermis is “exposed”.
• Darkening of the skin. After a TCA peel, the epidermis often turns dark brown. After 3 days, separation and exfoliation of the destroyed layers of skin begins, which reaches a maximum by 5-6 days and completely stops by 7-14 days. As a result, the regenerated new skin has a pink color. Αβ-peeling

A combination of glycolic and salicylic acids. It is a superficial-medium peeling. Incoming salicylic acid (keratolytic) potentiates the penetration of glycolic acid.

The technique is similar to AHA peeling. Brighter erythema after 15-20 seconds, intense burning, possible frost effect. Exposure up to 1-2 minutes. Indications: thick, porous skin, post-acne.

Technology

Peeling for cleansing and rejuvenating the skin with AHA acids is applied in several stages:

1. Preparatory. Surface impurities and makeup residues are removed from the skin using a professional product. Next, the skin is degreased and disinfected - this prevents the risk of inflammation spreading and minimizes the chances of infection entering the dermis.
2. Basic. The cleansing composition is evenly distributed over the epidermis and left for the time calculated by the specialist.
3. Neutralizing. Peeling is removed using a neutralizer; washing it off with plain water can cause a burn.
4. Final. The skin is treated with moisturizer and sunscreen.

In the case of cleaning in a salon, the cosmetologist performs the first cleaning with a composition with a small content of fruit acids, increasing their concentration with each procedure - thus preventing injury to healthy skin. Lasting results can be achieved after a course of 6–10 sessions with an interval between cleanings of at least a week.