Retinol for the face - what is it, what is it for, how to use

11.12.2020

Retinol is a form of vitamin A, but this is what people call vitamin A in principle. For convenience, we will do this too. Retinol is a real star in cosmetology. Many people have heard that it is effective for almost all skin problems, but it must be used carefully. Let's find out all the details: why you need retinol for the face.

If we talk about retinol as a form of vitamin A, then this is the most easily absorbed form for skin cells. It is pure retinoic acid. There are other forms used in facial cosmetology: retinol palmitate, retinol acetate. They must first be transformed in the body, and only then act on cells.

Note: natural forms of vitamin A are used in cosmetology, and synthetic forms are used in pharmacology.

Why use retinol for facial skin?

In one sentence, retinol stimulates cells, accelerating their renewal process. That is, it heals the skin as a whole. From here we get a wide range of actions:

• The work of the sebaceous glands improves, the pores narrow;
• Wrinkles become less pronounced, and small ones are completely smoothed out;
• Pigment spots are lightened;
• Rashes are destroyed, and traces of deep pimples and acne disappear;
• The skin becomes firmer and more elastic – the production of appropriate proteins, collagen and elastin is stimulated;
• The moisture level in the cells is maintained at normal levels. This is done by retinol stimulating the cells responsible for the production of hyaluronic acid;
• Dead cells are removed. These cells are not visible to the naked eye, but they are there even if the skin appears smooth. Over time, natural skin renewal slows down, and retinol helps bring its rate closer to normal.

Thus, retinol is used to treat problematic facial skin, rejuvenate and moisturize. However, the use of this substance has its own nuances and limitations. Cosmetologists do not recommend doing anything on your own when choosing the dosage. There are also different forms of vitamin A in cosmetology - we will also consider this issue.

Retinol: instructions for use

The drug must be taken either early in the morning or late in the evening, and in both cases, after meals. The dosage depends on the patient’s age and disease:

• with mild and moderate vitamin deficiency, adults consume no more than 33,000 IU per day;
• with mild and moderate vitamin deficiency, children consume up to 5000 IU per day.

For the treatment of acne, the daily dosage is increased to 300 thousand IU (for adults). To treat gas diseases, adults take no more than 100 thousand IU, and at the same time use 20 mg of the drug “Riboflavin”.

Pitfalls of retinol (vitamin A) for the face

Having talked about the magical benefits of retinol, it is necessary to immediately make a reservation about the dangers it poses. Of course, in case of incorrect and uncontrolled use:

• The appearance of red spots, swelling; peeling of the skin, all kinds of irritation. This is the first and most obvious sign that something has gone wrong. In case of any skin reactions similar to allergic ones, the use of retinol should be stopped immediately;
• Vitamin A tends to accumulate in the body - excess is not excreted, as is the case with many other active supplements. It accumulates in the liver, so before using retinol for the face, you need to take a liver test;
• Retinol is dangerous for the embryo, or rather, it simply kills it. Therefore, this substance is contraindicated during pregnancy. Moreover, you will need to carefully protect yourself for the first six months after stopping retinol;
• Retinol makes the skin more sensitive and receptive to sunlight. Moreover, vitamin A itself is destroyed by the sun. Therefore, it is imperative to use sunscreen along with retinol facial cosmetics. Otherwise, it will be at least useless, or worse, age spots will appear.

There are also contraindications to taking retinol:

• Liver diseases: cirrhosis, viral hepatitis;
• Pregnancy;
• Pancreatitis;
• Gallstones;
• Kidney diseases (nephritis).

As you can see, retinol is not at all harmless. Therefore, in some countries it is even sold by prescription. We also do not recommend thoughtlessly running to the pharmacy or buying an active cosmetic concentrate. The use of retinol for facial skin requires a responsible approach and understanding.

So what now, is the free sale of cosmetics with retinol a crime against humanity? Not at all. It just contains a fairly low concentration of the substance, it is harmless. Plus, there are different forms of vitamin A, and some of them have fewer side effects.

Contraindications and side effects of retinol

If we are talking about forms of retinol that are not herbal, then you should be aware of the contraindications and side effects of this component.
Contraindications:

• pregnancy,
• chronic pancreatitis,
• cholelithiasis,
• acute chronic nephritis,
• cardiac decompensation,
• hypervitaminosis A,
• cirrhosis of the liver,
• viral hepatitis,
• sensitivity of the skin.

Side effects:

• skin irritations,
• allergic reactions,
• genetic mutations of the fetus,
• burns,
• hyperpigmentation,
• thinning of the skin,
• itching,
• peeling and tightness of the skin,
• hyperemia of the skin.

Please note that the skin needs to adapt to retinol and start care with low concentrations.

Forms of retinol in cosmetology

Vitamin A in facial cosmetics most often occurs in this form:

• Retinol acetate is the most popular form. It is produced in the form of oil solutions, capsules, and serums for injection. It is actively added to cosmetics for everyday care;
• Retinol palmitate is added mainly to preparations for the treatment of facial skin. Causes a full range of side effects in case of overdose;
• Retinaldehyde is a new form of vitamin A, the Koreans were the first to introduce it into cosmetics. More powerful than all other options in terms of action, with almost no side effects;
• Retinyl retinoate is a modern form of vitamin A that has fewer side effects. For example, it does not increase skin sensitivity to the sun.

When choosing products with retinol for the face, be sure to pay attention to what form it is in the composition.

Whitening properties of retinol

The depigmenting effect of retinoids is realized through several mechanisms.

1 — STIMULATION OF PROLIFERATION

Firstly, this occurs due to the acceleration of proliferation and differentiation of basal keratinocytes, i.e. activation of epidermal renewal.

Result: keratinocytes quickly break away from the basement membrane and begin to move upward.

Reducing the duration of stay of keratinocytes in the basal layer leads to a reduction in the time of their contact with melanocytes. Accordingly, the number of melanosomes transported into them decreases, and hence the degree of their staining.

What forms of retinol work?

Only Retinoic Acid (RA) can stimulate basal keratinocytes.

However, RK has a powerful irritant effect on the skin. Accordingly, it is impossible to use it for a long period of time. Here its closest predecessors come to the rescue:

• Retinol in its purest form (1-2%)
• Retinaldehyde

When applied to the skin, they, having passed into the deep layers of the epidermis, quickly turn into RK and activate the division of basal keratinocytes without irritating the skin.

To eliminate even the slightest chance of irritation, special conduction systems are added to high-quality products.

2 — INHIBITION OF TYROSINASE

Another mechanism is the suppression of the activity of the enzyme tyrosinase, a key participant in the synthesis of melanin.

Scientists are inclined to believe that this does not occur due to the suppression of tyrosinase synthesis, which is how classical anti-tyrosinase drugs work. RK is capable of inhibiting existing, working tyrosinase, which justifies the relevance of the presence of substances from the antityrosinase group in lightening agents with Retinoids.

Only RK is also capable of inhibiting tyrosinase; accordingly, pure Retinol and Retinaldehyde .

3 - EFFECT ON MELANOCYTES

In addition, RA can directly influence melanocytes due to the presence of CRABP-I receptors in them.

CRABP-1 receptors are located in cell membranes, including melanocytes. Thanks to these receptors, the cell recognizes Retinol and reduces the activity of pigment synthesis.

A component of the success of Retinoids in suppressing melanocytes is their cellular environment - keratinocytes and fibroblasts.

Only RK and its predecessors will also work for this lightening mechanism: Retinol and Retinaldehyde .

* Retinol Palmitate and Acetate can only stimulate exfoliation; they do not work on all of the listed mechanisms.

How to properly use retinol for the face

There are not many ways to enrich your skin with retinol.

• Buy cosmetics with vitamin A in low concentrations in the store: cream, serum, mask. They can be used on a regular basis. The concentration of retinol in such products is up to 1%, so you shouldn’t count on a wow effect;
• Buy a pharmaceutical product with retinol, be sure to consult a doctor before use. In such cosmetics the dosage is higher, its use imposes restrictions: do not get pregnant, use SPF, etc. There are usually corresponding warnings on the packaging;
• Make masks with retinol with your own hands. We'll talk about the recipes further.

But you can’t just add retinol to your face cosmetics. Cosmetologists warn: it does not get along well with all components. For example, it prevents hyaluronic acid from working. Or it reacts actively with ANA acids, which leads to irritation. In addition, it is harmful for retinol to be stored outside of sealed packaging: it quickly oxidizes.

You need to gradually accustom your skin to retinol, especially if the dosage is not small. Proceed like this:

• Apply the first time at night, then wait a week. Are there any negative skin reactions similar to allergies?
• If everything is ok, apply it a second time. We have been waiting for 6 days and looking at the reaction;
• If nothing bad still happens, reduce the wait to 5 days, then 4, until you reach daily use.

Retinol cosmetics should be applied correctly to dry, clean skin. Do not use it when wet or steamed: it absorbs too quickly and may cause irritation. Supplement your care with active moisturizers.

Cosmetologists recommend the following face creams with retinol:

• La Roche-Posay Redermic R Anti-Aging;
• Elizavecca Milky Piggy EGF Elastic Retinol Cream;
• Holy Land Alpha-Beta & Retinol Restoring Cream;
• Avene Anti-Age Ysteal+;
• SeSDerma Retises 0.25% Cream;
• Christina Retinol E Active Cream.

Among Russian cosmetics manufacturers, we can note creams with vitamin A from Black Pearl and Natura Siberica.

Goldobina Maya Valerievna

Dermatologist, cosmetologist member of EADV, IDS

Vitamin A is widely used in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries for the production of topical products intended for the care and treatment of skin with increased sebum secretion and signs of aging. These very different conditions differ in clinical picture and pathogenesis, but in both cases vitamin A is very useful [1].

The era of vitamin A in dermatology is associated with the name of Albert Kligman. In 1969, he presented the positive results of tretinoin (all-trans retinoic acid) in the treatment of acne. Further research led to the appearance in 1971 of the first commercial drug for the treatment of acne with tretinoin (0.1%) - Retin-A, which is still present on the drug market.

In the case of acne, the clinical effect of vitamin A is associated primarily with its ability to suppress the secretory activity of the sebaceous glands - after all, they create a favorable background for the growth of pathogenic microflora (primarily Cutibacterium acne, as well as staphylococci and streptococci), which underlies this chronic inflammatory condition. dermatosis.

Among the dermatological effects of vitamin A, others were discovered, in particular, thinning of the stratum corneum and lightening of the overall tone. They can be used to correct signs of skin aging such as roughness and keratosis, superficial wrinkles, and uneven pigmentation. It is no coincidence that tretinoin (0.05%) was the active ingredient in the first topical skin rejuvenation product, Renova, which came to market in 1996 and even received FDA approval for the reduction of fine lines on the face, including crow's feet around the corners of the eyes. . (Note that Albert Kligman was also behind this product.)

However, the high effectiveness of vitamin A also has a downside. Suppression of the activity of the sebaceous glands allows the use of retinol on skin with normal or increased secretion of sebum; sebum deficiency is a contraindication. Too much thinning of the stratum corneum worsens its barrier properties, and its resistance to external influences drops sharply - sensitive skin syndrome develops, which includes increased irritability, a tendency to inflammation, and unpleasant sensations (even burning). Lightening pigmentation over a large area makes the skin more sensitive to ultraviolet radiation, which can lead to photodermatosis.

How to avoid crossing the fine line between therapeutic effectiveness and clinical safety? Obviously, strict control is needed over the use of this highly active substance. In addition to correctly assessing the indications and contraindications when prescribing retinol-containing topical products, there are a number of techniques that developers and manufacturers use to not only minimize risks, but also enhance the desired effects.

We will talk about some of these techniques in this article, but we will begin our story by discussing the effect of vitamin A on the skin.

What's Behind the Clinical Effects of Vitamin A?

Most of the observed skin reactions associated with topical vitamin A are due to its direct effect on the expression of genes that control cell division [2]. Cells that divide frequently are most sensitive to vitamin A levels. Thus, with a long-term insufficient supply of vitamin A (hypovitaminosis), the first signs of deficiency are follicular hyperkeratosis and general dry skin - this is due to a slowdown in the rate of renewal of the epidermis and stratum corneum. With chronic hypervitaminosis, the skin becomes thin, dry and reactive, increased brittleness of nails is observed, the oral mucosa becomes inflamed, and ulcers occur. In this situation, in the epidermis there is a too rapid change of keratinocytes, which do not have time to mature and form the correct stratum corneum - it becomes thinner, its barrier structures change, and the barrier function deteriorates.

With both hypo- and hypervitaminosis A, the amount of sebum decreases. Sebocytes, like basal keratinocytes, divide frequently. The newly formed cell synthesizes and accumulates lipids, at some point its membrane ruptures, and all contents (lipids, fragments of organelles and cell membrane) end up in the cavity of the sebaceous gland, mixing into a single mass - sebum. With hypovitaminosis A, the division of sebocytes slows down, and accordingly, fewer cells reach maturity, at which point the cell bursts and the total volume of sebum decreases. With hypervitaminosis A, on the contrary, the number of mitoses increases, but sebocytes do not have time to accumulate a sufficient amount of lipids before they die. So in this case, the productivity of the sebaceous glands in producing sebum decreases.

As for lightening pigmentation, melanocytes react poorly to vitamin A, although they accumulate it. Retinol is not a depigmentant that blocks melanin synthesis directly in melanocytes. But it accelerates the exfoliation of keratinocytes loaded with pigment - this allows you to lighten the overall skin tone, but not discolor pigment spots.

Fibroblasts and immune cells of the skin are also not rapidly dividing immature cells. Of course, they also need vitamin A, but for different processes. Perhaps in this case there are non-genomic mechanisms of action of retinol on cells [3]. We know much less about them, but enough to suggest that they do not determine the skin's response to topical vitamin A.

Inclusion of vitamin A in different forms in the formulation

One of the control methods that manufacturers have adopted is similar to what our body uses. The fact is that vitamin A is not one specific substance, but several substances that in our body are successively converted into one another until the final form is formed - the one that has biological activity [4].

Vitamin A, however, like other vitamins, enters our body with food - plant (in the form of carotenoids) and animal (in the form of retinol). The biotransformation of carotenoids begins in the intestine - in the cells of the intestinal mucosa, under the action of the enzyme dioxygenase, b-carotene is split into two molecules of retinal (an aldehyde form), which is then oxidized to retinol (an alcohol form). Next, retinol is absorbed into the blood and, in combination with special transport proteins, reaches the liver through the portal vein, where it accumulates in hepatocytes.

The liver is the main depot of vitamin A for animals; from the liver it is distributed to all tissues and reaches every living cell. Transport proteins remain outside, and retinol enters the cell and is bound by intracellular retinol-binding proteins (CRBP). In this form, it can remain in the cytoplasm for a long time until the cell needs to activate it. Activation is carried out using special enzymes that reversibly oxidize alcohol (retinol) to aldehyde (retinal), and then irreversibly - aldehyde to acid (trans-retinoic or 9-cis-retinoic). Retinoic acid (RA) is the final product of the biotransformation of vitamin A and its active form, which provides an effect on the cell.

As soon as RK is formed, the process becomes uncontrollable - the acid quickly penetrates the cell nucleus and binds to nuclear receptors RAR (for trans-RK) or RXR (for 9-cis-RK). These receptors control the expression of many genes, but primarily those involved in cell proliferation, so the main effect of RK on the cell will be the stimulation of cell division. And if so, then rapidly dividing cells will be the most sensitive to RA - in the skin these include basal keratinocytes and sebocytes. They are the main targets for topical retinoids and the dermatological effects of these substances are associated with them.

Vitamin A in any form is a small fat-soluble substance that, when applied to the skin, easily passes through the lipid barrier and reaches living cells of the epidermis. No less easily it penetrates the ducts of the sebaceous glands and reaches the sebocytes. The cells along the way capture and store vitamin A, but it is the basal keratinocytes and sebocytes that will react to it most vividly, since these cells divide intensively.

We discussed above what stimulating the division of these cells will lead to. Now let us emphasize that if cells are “supplied” with vitamin A in an inactive form (ether, alcohol, aldehyde), they will be able to accumulate it and activate it as needed, independently regulating this process. Moreover, the further the precursor is in the biotransformation chain from the final active form, the longer its activation will occur. However, if the active form of vitamin A (acid) is applied to the skin, the cell has no choice - RA does not accumulate, but immediately goes to the nucleus and binds to nuclear receptors, triggering a cellular response. That is why retinoic acid is classified as a drug and cannot be used in cosmetics, while its inactive precursors are approved for use in cosmetics.

By combining several inactive forms of vitamin A in a cosmetic formulation, it was possible to increase the total concentration of vitamin A in skin cells and at the same time ensure its gradual intracellular activation. This technique allows you to prolong the effect of using products with vitamin A and at the same time reduce the risks of unwanted reactions associated with too rapid cell division [5].

Combination of vitamin A with other ingredients

It is possible to neutralize the undesirable effects of topical vitamin A, enhance the desired effect and even expand the therapeutic capabilities of the finished product by including some substances in the formulation - both forming the basis and biologically active.

Vitamin A is insoluble in water, so the preparation must have an oil phase. In this case, silicones are best suited for its formation. These high-molecular hydrophobic compounds are chemically and biologically inert, and this is their main advantage - they stabilize even such unstable substances as vitamin A. In addition, silicones improve the distribution of cosmetics over the surface of the skin, ensuring uniform penetration of biologically active substances. The silicones themselves do not pass through the stratum corneum and form a gas-permeable film on the surface of the skin, which also has excellent organoleptic properties - it is non-sticky and silky to the touch, which is important for cosmetics users.

In all these parameters, organic lipids are inferior to silicones, since they are susceptible to oxidation, “stick” to the skin and leave a feeling of heaviness. However, the inclusion of some lipids, such as sphingolipids, squalene and lipids of the unsaponifiable fraction of vegetable oils (sterols, terpenes), in small concentrations (at the level of several percent) as dietary supplements can be very useful and will give the finished product additional qualities. For example, sphingolipids and sterols will support the lipid barrier, the composition and structure of which changes due to long-term use of topical retinoids. Squalene applied to the skin will help compensate for the lack of your own squalene due to the suppression of sebum secretion. And terpenes , which essential oils are mainly rich in, have aniseptic properties and will reduce (but not completely remove!) the overall concentration of preservatives.

On the modern cosmetic market there are cosmetics with vitamin A that are completely oil-based. But in this case, it is impossible to include beneficial water-soluble substances in the recipe. Therefore, most developers try to combine the water and oil phases.

The presence of an aqueous phase is absolutely necessary for the inclusion in the formulation of moisturizing hygroscopic substances ( free amino acids , glycerin , hyaluronic acid ), which bind and retain water inside the stratum corneum or on its surface. Moisturizing substances help eliminate or significantly reduce dry skin - one of the earliest and most unpleasant symptoms that develops due to thinning of the stratum corneum with long-term use of topical vitamin A.

Hyaluronic acid can be more than just a surface moisturizer. As is known, it is present in the intercellular space of the epidermis, and keratinocytes, independently of fibroblasts, carry out its synthesis and control its degradation. With age, and also in very dry skin, the balance of hyaluronic acid in the epidermis is disrupted, and this affects the migration of keratinocytes during natural maturation or during injury. Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid can pass through the stratum corneum, however, only if it has microcracks (if there is severe dryness, they exist) or scratches. Having passed under the stratum corneum, small fragments of hyaluronic acid will be captured by keratinocytes and used to synthesize their own high molecular weight hyaluronic acid [6]. This will improve epithelization after physical damage, and in addition, will serve as a prevention of age-related changes in the epidermis [7].

To combat another unpleasant side effect of topical retinoids—irritability—formulations include antioxidants and some other anti-inflammatory substances, such as niacinamide (vitamin B3) . Niacinamide is rapidly gaining popularity and is increasingly used in skin care - both on its own and in combination with other active substances. Studies have revealed a wide range of biological activities of niacinamide, but in this case we are especially interested in its ability to suppress the synthesis of certain pro-inflammatory mediators by keratinocytes, such as IL-6, IL-8 and prostaglandin E2. Increased levels of these mediators are observed in skin with a weakened barrier, as well as in photodamaged skin, which explains the tendency of skin in such conditions to become inflamed. No less interesting is the ability of niacinamide to stimulate the synthesis of barrier lipids in granular keratinocytes - this is important for strengthening and maintaining the barrier of the stratum corneum. Niacinamide has also been shown to have a strengthening effect on the vascular wall, the permeability of which increases in the inflammatory focus [8]. And in addition, the ability to inhibit the transfer of melanosomes to keratinocytes, which is useful in correcting pigmentation.

Retinol B3 serum is an innovative product of the La Roche-Posay brand

Composition and cosmetic form

The development and production of topical products with vitamin A are knowledge-intensive, technically challenging and financially expensive processes, so not all cosmetic brands have retinol-containing products in their portfolio. The more attention the new products attract, especially from companies that have earned credibility among the dermatological audience.

This year, the La Roche-Posay brand introduced a new product - Retinol B 3 serum . Despite its cosmetic status, the product was created according to pharmaceutical standards:

• laconic composition and adjusted concentrations of each ingredient;
• “cold” production to avoid temperature inactivation of substances;
• special packaging made of UV-resistant glass with a dispenser pipette that ensures the correct dosage during use and prevents contact of the product with the skin;
• an extensive research dossier, including the results of laboratory and clinical studies of effectiveness and safety.

In terms of cosmetic form, Retinol B 3 serum is a microemulsion : micron-sized oil droplets suspended in the outer aqueous phase. The oil phase is formed by high molecular weight silicones (cyclohexasiloxane, dimethicone, polysilicon-11), and the aqueous phase is structured by polymers (xanthan, ammonium polyacryldimethyl taurate). Polymers affect the viscosity of the product, and in addition, they are additional stabilizers of microdroplets, preventing them from merging with each other. To produce the microemulsion, only one emulsifier was used (paired with denatured ethanol, it acts as a solubilizer) PPG-6 decyltetradecet-30, and its concentration is less than the concentration of emulsifiers in conventional emulsions. From a dermatological point of view, the latter circumstance is extremely important, since emulsifiers by their nature are surfactants that can integrate into the lipid layers of the stratum corneum and change their structure, and this should be avoided when using topical retinoids.

Microdroplets are so small that they practically do not cloud the product. And pentylene glycol, which is relatively abundant in the composition, evens out the refractive indices of the phases, so that the serum appears almost transparent.

Vitamin A is included in the serum in two forms - retinol (0.1%) and retinyl palmitate (0.2%) . Both forms pass equally easily through the stratum corneum and reach living cells. However, their intracellular biotransformation occurs at different rates, which ensures better tolerability of the drug and the possibility of its use even on sensitive skin without fear of unwanted reactions (Fig. 1).

In addition to the retinol complex, the oil phase contains the antioxidant tocopherol (vitamin E) and the unsaponifiable fraction of soybean oil (phytosterols, squalene, lutein) . These substances are characterized by anti-inflammatory properties and make a significant contribution to reducing skin reactivity. Vitamin E in addition protects retinol from oxidation in the product itself.

Water-soluble bioactive substances are concentrated in the aqueous phase - niacinamide (2%) , hyaluronic acid and the amino acid arginine . We wrote about the therapeutic properties and benefits of these substances above; here we will only emphasize once again that they are included in the composition to neutralize the signs of dryness that often occur during the use of topical vitamin A, and to maintain the regenerative potential of the epidermis.

Clinical researches

A number of clinical studies have been conducted to evaluate the effectiveness and safety of Retinol B3 serum. One of them involved 56 European women aged 46 to 65 years with different skin types and conditions, including sensitive skin. For 8 weeks, once a day (in the evenings), participants applied the test product to their entire face, and in the morning - a sunscreen with UV filters.

A significant reduction in the depth of fine wrinkles (by 19%) and the total area occupied by wrinkles (by 14%), smoother skin (a 25% decrease in roughness index) and an even skin tone (by 21%) were demonstrated (Fig. 2).

96% of participants noted a comfortable feeling associated with using the product and expressed satisfaction with the “well-being” of their skin after completing the study.

Indications and recommendations for use

Retinol B3 serum is intended to correct signs of aging (keratosis, rough texture, wrinkles, uneven tone), including premature, caused by exposure to adverse external (UV, industrial pollution, cigarette smoke, etc.) and internal (unbalanced nutrition, nervous exhaustion, etc.) factors.

Regular use of the serum helps to normalize the process of keratinization, restore the barrier function of the stratum corneum and the level of hydration, and reduce reactivity. As a result, the skin looks fresher and younger, it becomes smoother and softer, a beautiful shine appears, and subjective feelings of dryness go away.

The serum is applied to clean, towel-dried skin on the face and neck at night (a general rule for retinol-containing products). Contact with eyes and eyelids should be avoided. A special product is designed to care for the skin of the eyelids - Redermic R Eyes cream . In the morning, it is recommended to apply hyaluronic serum HYALU B 5 - it will moisturize and soften the skin. During the day, be sure to use sunscreen with UV filters.

General contraindications to the use of retinol-containing drugs are individual intolerance to individual components in their composition, as well as severe sebum deficiency.

Personal experience

The Retnol B3 serum appeared on the Russian market in the fall of 2021, so it is too early to talk about the long-term results of its use. At the same time, it is worth noting the high tolerance of the product even by patients with sensitive skin. Our experience in prescribing retinol-containing drugs shows that the best tolerability is obtained with gradual administration of the drug. So, for patients with very reactive skin, we recommend the following regimen:

• 1st week of use - 2 times a week at night;
• 2nd week of use - 3 times a week at night;
• 3rd week of use - 5 times a week at night;
• starting from the 4th week and further within the course - every day at night.

Thanks to this careful design, patients easily tolerate the new product, and the risk of adverse events in the form of increased dryness and increased sensitivity is minimized.

Summary

More than half a century has passed since Albert Kligman introduced vitamin A into dermatological practice. The history of studying the biological properties of this multifaceted substance lasts just as long. We already know a lot about him and know how to direct his “power” in the right direction. And yet you need to be careful - vitamin A is too active biologically and “fragile” chemically, so it must be handled with understanding and caution. This applies equally to the use of retinol-containing products and their production.

Retinol B3 Serum is one of those cosmetic products that can be cited as an example of a carefully crafted formulation where vitamin A is tightly controlled. This means that the desired effect from using the serum will definitely be achieved! Of course, subject to strict adherence to the recommendations for use.

The article was published in the magazine “Cosmetics and Medicine Special Edition” No. 4/2021

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Literature

1. Khalil S., Bardawil T., Stephan C., et al. Retinoids: a journey from the molecular structures and mechanisms of action to clinical uses in dermatology and adverse Dermatolog Treat 2017; 28(8): 684–696.
2. Shao Y., He T., Fisher GJ, et al. Molecular basis of retinol anti-aging properties in naturally aged humanskinin vivo. Int J Cosmet Sci 2017; 39(1): 56–65.
3. Bar-El Dadon S., Reifen R. VitaminA and the epigenome. Crit Rev Food Sci Nutr 2017; 57(11): 2404–2411.
4. Szymański Ł., Skopek R., Palusińska M., et al. Retinoic Acid and Its Derivatives in Cells 2020; 9(12): 2660.
5. Sorg O., Saurat JH Topical retinoids inskin aging: a focused update with reference to sun-induced epidermal vitamin A deficiency. Dermatology 2014; 228(4): 314–325.
6. Zhu J., Tang X., Jia Y., et al. Applications and delivery mechanisms ofhyaluronic acid used for topical/transdermal delivery - A review. Int J Pharm 2020; 578:119127.
7. Juncan A.M., MoisăG., Santini A., et al. Advantages of Hyaluronic Acid and Its Combination with Other Bioactive Ingredients in Cosmeceuticals. Molecules 2021; 26(15): 4429.
8. Boo YC Mechanistic Basis and Clinical Evidence for the Applications of Nicotinamide (Niacinamide) to Control Skin Aging and Pigmentation. Antioxidants (Basel) 2021; 10(8): 1315.

Homemade face masks with retinol

To make such masks, you need to buy retinol in capsules or ampoules. This can be done either at a pharmacy or at a cosmetic store. Before the procedure, the skin must be thoroughly cleaned and exfoliated with a scrub. This will make her more susceptible to active substances.

Curd mask

Rejuvenates and smoothes the skin. Take 1 ampoule of palmitate, 7 g of thicker cream and 15 g of cottage cheese. Mix with a blender and spread over your face. Leave the mask on for half an hour and rinse off.

Mask with persimmon

Protects the skin from harmful influences and corrects the oval of the face. You need to mix puree from the pulp of 1 persimmon, 2 drops of vitamin A and 2 drops of vitamin A. Apply for 30 minutes and rinse with herbal decoction.