Alexander Prokofiev, dermatovenerologist, medical expert of the La Roche-Posay brand:
“Facial serums have been around for a long time, but still I am often asked: “Why are they needed if there is a cream?” and “Are they needed at all?” The answer is clear - yes, we need it! Cream is basic daily skin care, and serums are designed to solve specific problems. If the cream is selected according to skin type, then when choosing a serum, the skin type is not important, but the main thing is the skin condition that needs to be dealt with (dehydration, acne, age-related changes, pigmentation). If there are no obvious skin problems, then serum is most likely not needed.
What is a facial serum?
Facial serum or serum came to cosmetology from pharmaceuticals. They are a highly effective remedy and will also help in combination when other means fail.
A serum is a concentrated product that aims to moisturize the skin from the inside, so serums easily penetrate into the deepest layers of the skin.
Serums are an intermediate and additional step in comprehensive skin care. It is recommended to “cover” serums with face cream, with the exception of some specimens. The packaging should always indicate how to use the facial serum!
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Why use facial serum?
The effectiveness of facial serums:
- First of all, it is associated with a high concentration of active components , so the products are usually produced in small volumes and a very small amount of product is required when applied. For one application, 1-2 drops of the product are enough.
- The second distinctive feature is the function of preparing the skin for the next stages of care , namely the application of cream. The serum moisturizes the skin, thereby preparing it for the application of the next product. A good example: we noticed that if you drop water on a dry sponge, it will not be absorbed, but on a wet sponge it will immediately disappear. This is how the serum prepares the upper layer of the dermis for the next stages. Its molecules are much smaller and penetrate the skin faster, taking with them the product applied after it, enhancing the effect of creams and making them more effective.
Life hack: apply facial serum before using a sheet mask. The serum will perfectly complement the care and help the components penetrate deeper into the tissue. Serum will make your skin care much more effective
Serum application options
Cosmetologists have developed several ways to apply the highly concentrated drug. The general rule is that the skin should be well cleansed before using the serum. It is wiped with micellar water or hydrophilic oil, and then washed with soft foam or gel. Light peeling will help enhance the penetration of valuable substances. The next stage is toning. The face is treated with a soft alcohol-free lotion or floral hydrosol.
If ampoule serum is used, carefully open the glass flask. A few drops of the product are applied directly to the skin along massage lines. The drug is rubbed until completely absorbed, moving from the center of the face to the periphery. Movements should be soft and smooth; moving the skin is not recommended. The contents of the ampoule are completely used at one time. If there is too much product for the face, apply the rest to the neck and décolleté.
For ease of dosing, the bottles are equipped with a pipette.
When using the product with a dropper, the drops can be applied directly to the skin or released into the palm. After this, the skin is massaged with your fingertips, starting from the forehead and moving towards the chin. Serum is not applied to the area around the eyes. the exception is products specifically designed for moisturizing or lifting the eyelids.
The serum can be applied in layers, this will increase the effectiveness of the drug.
The product in the form of a gel or emulsion is distributed in small portions. You need to act quickly, as the product is absorbed very quickly. If the drug is intended for local areas, it cannot be applied to the entire face. For example, a pore-tightening serum is applied to the nose, cheeks, and chin.
Types of facial serums
Serums are distinguished according to the direction of action, respectively:
- Moisturizing - saturate the skin with moisture and prevent it from drying out, necessary for all skin types starting after 25 years. Contains hyaluronic acid and aloe vera;
- With a lifting effect - anti-aging facial serums that tighten and strengthen the skin. May contain collagen, snail mucin, arbutin;
- Whitening (or evening out skin color) - reduces pigmentation on the face and prevents its occurrence, excellent in the summer. Contains Vitamin C;
- Vitamins - tone, heal and enrich the skin with vitamins, enriched with various plant extracts;
- Sebum-regulating – mattify and fight inflammation on the skin, suitable for oily and problematic skin;
- Regenerating - renews the skin and helps tissues recover faster, contains the epidermal growth factor EGF.
Editor's choice "Beauty&Health":
Soothing serum Serum Calmant, Eisenberg
What is he doing?
Soothes sensitive skin, relieves irritation and redness, improves skin hydration
What's in it?
Raspberry Leaf Stem Cell Extract, Sesame Seed Oil, Boswellia Serrata Extract
Price: 7,149 rub.
Eye serum BioLumin-C, Eye Serum, Dermalogica
What is he doing?
Increases skin elasticity, smoothes, reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, brightens
What's in it?
Vitamin C, arjuna tree extracts, microalgae, tremella mushroom, chai seed oil, poria mushroom
Price: 6,100 rub.
Serum Beauty Shot, Natura Siberica
What is he doing?
Intensely moisturizes and nourishes, restores radiance and elasticity to the skin
What's in it?
Organic Manchurian aralia hydrolate, Manchurian aralia, organic Siberian cedar oil, hyaluronic acid, vitamin E
Price: 707 rub.
Smoothing serum Ideal Resourse, Darphin
What is he doing?
Smoothes, helps restore the cellular barrier, reduces pores, evens out and improves skin texture
What's in it?
Soybean extract, clary sage extract and complex of bamboo and pea extracts, centella asiatica, knotweed, hibiscus flower extract
Price: 5,560 rub.
Energy serum for face Energy Serum, Natura Siberica
What is he doing?
Eliminates signs of fatigue and stress, fills the skin with vitality, restores its firmness and elasticity. What's in the composition?
Organic Altai sea buckthorn hydrolate, vitamin C, C-phytosterols, collagen
Price: 635 rub.
Serum Pure Beau Essence, Japonica
What is he doing?
Helps skin retain moisture, restores firmness and hydrates
What's in it?
100% hyaluronic acid solution
Price: 1,791 rub.
Serum Brightening Intense, BABOR
What is he doing?
Prevents the appearance of age spots, evens out skin texture, enhances collagen synthesis
What's in it?
EXP complex (a combination of exopolysaccharide and two amino acids with plant extracts of butcher's broom, centella asiatica, calendula, yeast proteins and escin), bioactive soy isoflavones, watercress extract, vitamin C
Price: 7,970 rub.
Toning serum Cicapair, Dr.Jart+
What is he doing?
Relieves irritation and soothes dry/sensitive skin, intensively nourishes, restores complexion.
What's in it?
Centella asiatica extract and phytostem cells, plant complex with extracts of rose of Jericho, yarrow and hauttuynia cordata, chlorophyll, minerals and panthenol
Price: 4,830 rub.
Night serum Peeling Marine, Thalgo
What is he doing?
Gives the effect of “new skin” after 7 days, intensively exfoliates, enhances cellular metabolism and reactivates the youthful functions of the skin.
What's in it?
9.8% glycolic and 0.2% gluconic acids, [5%] acids from fermented algae
Price: 5,860 rub.
Oleo serum for complex nutrition of facial skin, Mixit
What is he doing?
Promotes active cell regeneration and normalization of all metabolic processes, prevents premature aging of the skin, moisturizes and nourishes
What's in it?
Vitamins F, E, A, vegetable oils of macadamia, soybean, amaranth, rosemary plant extract
Price: 945 rub.
Eye serum, Erborian
What is he doing?
Refreshes the skin around the eyes, makes it smooth and moisturized, helps cope with puffiness
What's in it?
Vitamin E, glycerin, citrus extract
Price: 3,190 rub.
How to use facial serum?
Serums should be applied to cleansed skin after applying facial toner.
Next, the serum must be covered with cream. But some emulsion serums can be left without it; this should be indicated on the packaging of the product.
In general, it is better to use serums with cream from the same line and aimed at one task, since they complement each other and enhance the effect.
The main thing is to choose the right product according to your skin type and the problem being solved.
Choosing a cream to enhance the effect
After the serum is completely absorbed, a moisturizing or nourishing cream is applied. It is carefully driven in with your fingertips, moving along the massage lines. You can change the application pattern by adding a few drops of serum to the cream. This mixture is applied to slightly damp skin. Cosmetologists recommend choosing cream and serum from the same company, but if necessary, this rule can be broken.
To achieve a visible effect, you need to use the selected serum morning and evening for 2-3 weeks. After this, the product can be changed. For example, you should first apply a serum with a tightening effect, and then continue the program with a concentrate for deep moisturizing or whitening the skin.
Cosmetologists do not recommend combining several active products. For example, you cannot apply several serums at the same time, much less mix them. Do not use the serum together with a rich active cream. The best companion for a serum is a simple, high-quality moisturizer with a minimum of ingredients.
The choice of cream depends on the type of serum. An active concentrate with a tightening or brightening effect can dry out the skin, so pair it with a cream with oils or hyaluronic acid. It will restore the water-lipid balance and prevent peeling.
A few drops of serum can be added to the cream or emulsion.