All about chemical peels: what they are and what effect they have

Glycolic peels are the most common and popular superficial peels that can be performed by both doctors and cosmetologists and aestheticians. Of all the AHA acids, glycolic acid has the shortest molecule, containing only two carbon atoms, due to which it penetrates deeply into the skin, leads to exfoliation, and has indirect antioxidant and moisturizing effects. To reduce the aggressiveness of the acid, lactokine is added to the peeling composition. This is a one-of-a-kind active substance that contains a group of proteins isolated from milk and has a powerful anti-inflammatory effect.

Types of facial peels

There are only three of them:

  1. Mechanical peeling

Involves exfoliating the skin using an abrasive (scrubs, dermabrasion). In professional cosmetology, this type of skin peeling is used less and less. Mechanical peeling is indicated for rough, dense skin with good epithelization.

  1. Laser peeling (resurfacing, dermabrasion)

An effective but traumatic peeling procedure with a serious recovery period for the skin.

  1. Chemical peeling

It is most popular among skin peels due to the breadth of indications for its implementation, the possibility of selection according to the depth of penetration and the most suitable composition.

4. Enzyme peeling

Enzyme peels are considered the weakest and most atraumatic, and are sometimes performed before the chemical peel procedure in order to prepare it for deeper penetration of acids in subsequent stages. And also for contraindications to chemical peels.

What it is?

Healthy skin is constantly renewed, and the upper - horny - layer of the epidermis consists of dead cells. They gradually peel off, giving way to new ones. If this process slows down, the layer of dead cells becomes too thick. As a result, the breathing of the skin is disrupted, its surface becomes uneven, the complexion deteriorates, and other defects appear.

They contain acids that dissolve dead cells and stimulate the process of exfoliation of the upper layer of the epidermis. More concentrated formulations affect both the middle and deep layers of the skin.

At its core, the procedure is a controlled damage (chemical burn) to the skin. The body reacts to such exposure with intensive restoration and cell renewal: damaged layers are replaced with new ones. As a result, the face looks much younger and fresher.

The history of chemical peelings began in ancient times, when beauties used wine, fruit juices and fermented milk products to prolong their youth. The development of chemistry in the late 19th and early 20th centuries gave women effective but unsafe peelings using concentrated acids and toxic substances. They were popular with the most desperate ladies who wanted to preserve their beauty for many years at any cost. Only later, at the end of the 20th century, when scientists studied the properties of alpha hydroxy acids (AHA), modern superficial and medium peels appeared - delicate but effective. Such procedures quickly gained popularity, and now cosmetology clinics offer a wide variety of options to suit every taste.

Classification of skin peels by depth of damage

Below is a classification of peelings depending on which layer the skin peeling acids penetrate, as well as which peelings represent each group.

Superficial peeling – to the germinal layer of the epidermis (epidermal-dermal junction).

  • Glycolic (30 – 50% glycolic acid),
  • Milk (10 – 30%),
  • Almond (up to 40%, in the case of almond peelings, as a rule, there is a combination with other acids),
  • Salicylic (up to 5%, with salicylic peels the depth depends on the percentage and what additional components are contained),
  • Pyruvic (up to 50%)

Indications for use: correction of age-related changes (for rejuvenation in all types of aging), acne with inflammation in problem areas of the facial skin (pimples), used when cleansing the skin of sebaceous plugs (comedones) to loosen the epidermis, as well as for age spots.

Potential side effects: post-inflammatory pigmentation, erythema, itching, burning, superficial peeling/epidermolysis

Medium peeling – the entire thickness of the epidermis to the papillary layer of the dermis.

Among the most popular: Jessner peel and its modifications, TCA (trichloroacetic peel), retinol/retinoic (also called “yellow peel”).

Indications for use : affect macrostructural changes in the skin, actively exfoliate, eliminate deeper skin defects (deep pigmentation, post-acne, scars and wrinkles), improve skin texture.

They require a longer recovery period and have an increased risk of scarring and skin dispigmentation.

Deep peeling – up to the reticular layer of the dermis (practically not used in modern cosmetology). The drugs were used on areas with noticeable gross structural disturbances (deep scars, scars).

Currently, aggressive deep peels in cosmetology have practically been abandoned (for example, phenol peels) in favor of safer off-season peels. The reason is the serious complications that arise and the difficult recovery period.

Peels are also available for home use - Home peels are used independently and for professional use - only by specialists in a beauty salon.

Read more about home peeling, what it is, how to choose and use it effectively, here .

Effect

After a course of procedures, the face becomes fresh and youthful. Peels are very popular precisely because the results are clearly visible. It can be appreciated not only by attentive observers - even casual acquaintances will notice a clear improvement in the condition of the skin.

Compliments are guaranteed after the first sessions, and by the end of the course:

  • Improves and evens out complexion;
  • Wrinkles are smoothed out and disappear;
  • Elasticity and turgor increase;
  • Pigmentation disappears;
  • The skin becomes smooth and soft;
  • Acne goes away;
  • Scars are smoothed out, incl. from post-acne;
  • Pores tighten;
  • The functioning of the sebaceous glands is normalized.

Peeling courses combine well with other cosmetic procedures - both hardware and injection. A cosmetologist will tell you how best to combine different types of treatment to achieve optimal results.

How often can you use homemade skin peeling?

Home peels are superficial and can be mechanical or chemical. Selected according to skin type and problem.

Let's look at specific examples:

DermaQuest facial scrub cleansing gel with alginates is a gel scrub based on algae extracts and jojoba granules for effective cleansing and moisturizing - removes hyperkeratosis and prepares the skin for subsequent stages of care. Intensively “rinses”, increasing the depth of subsequent treatments.

Contains and plant extracts , as well as jojoba granules for gentle effusion of excess stratum corneum.

Recommended for all skin types, including dry, dehydrated and sensitive.

Application: 2 times a week for oily, thick skin or combination skin, 1 time a week for dry and sensitive skin.

DermaQuest pumpkin face mask is a homemade peeling for oily skin with comedones and enlarged pores.

Steaming mask with antibacterial effect for deep cleansing of the skin: dissolves comedones, draws out inflammatory elements and promotes their maturation, removes inflamed acne. Active lymphatic drainage. Gives the skin a well-groomed, neat appearance.

Application: intervals between procedures are 1 week.

Rehabilitation

After chemical peels, you need to take good care of your skin to give it a chance to recover. First of all, hydration is necessary. It is recommended to use products with hyaluronic acid, panthenol, aloe and vitamins. In addition, you should avoid any aggressive procedures, the use of alcohol-containing cosmetics, retinoids, and mechanical scrubs. When crusts appear, you cannot remove them yourself - you should be patient and wait until they fall off spontaneously.

It is extremely important to protect your face from ultraviolet radiation. The renewed epidermis is especially sensitive to such effects, so the risk of age spots increases. So the use of protective lotions with a high SPF factor is mandatory not only in the summer (when peeling is generally not recommended), but also in the winter.

To maintain the effect, your doctor may recommend using special cosmetics containing acids. They can be included in creams for everyday use in low concentrations sufficient to preserve the results for a long time.

After superficial treatment, the skin is restored quickly, however, during the entire course and two weeks after its completion, careful care and avoidance of any aggressive influence are necessary.

How often can I have a professional chemical peel?

The frequency depends on both skin type and peeling depth.

Deep peeling is a medical procedure performed by a doctor with the participation of an anesthesiologist. Patients go to a special cosmetology clinic. As a rule, it is carried out once, because Rehabilitation is complex, and the rehabilitation period itself can take several months.

Medium peeling – is carried out in a course of up to 4 – 6 procedures, once a month, a course once a year.

Superficial peeling – a course of up to 10 procedures, performed once every 7-10-14 days (depending on the skin, how quickly regeneration proceeds and the selected chemical composition). The course is conducted 1–2 times a year.

Read about the types of peelings and choosing the right one for you in the article “Which facial peel to choose” here .

Other factors influencing the frequency of peelings:

  • Age. The rate of skin restoration corresponds to age; young skin has good regenerative abilities; with age, processes slow down. Therefore, the breaks between procedures should increase.
  • Individual characteristics. Some clients have sensitive skin. Procedures are carried out after detailed consultation about personal data, contraindications, what results to expect and how to help the skin recover, preferably after a sensitivity test.

Carrying out special skin tests allows you to avoid individual undesirable reactions (from peeling to redness and erosion).

To do this, you need to apply a small portion of peeling to the area of ​​the skin of the cheek closer to the ear, neutralize/rinse off after a few minutes (according to the protocol). The next day, ask the client about reactions to these products.

  • Skin type. The thinner the skin, the less often exfoliation is performed and the need to prepare the skin for peeling increases.
  • Skin preparedness. Preliminary application of creams and serums with acids, as well as sunscreens to protect the skin from post-inflammatory pigmentation allows the procedure to be carried out effectively and comfortably.

Indications and contraindications

Chemical peeling of the face is carried out strictly according to indications. These include the following conditions:

  • dry skin;
  • increased secretion of the sebaceous glands;
  • hyperpigmentation;
  • post-acne scar changes;
  • stagnant post-inflammatory spots;
  • the need to update the cellular composition;
  • wrinkles;
  • prevention of age-related changes;
  • preparation for skin lightening and other cosmetic procedures.

Acid chemical peeling of the face is not used if there are signs of an active herpetic infection, a history of allergic dermatoses, or taking oral retinoids. Their use should be discontinued 7-10 days before the expected date of the procedure. "Roaccutane" and "Tigazon" must be discontinued no later than 6 months before acid cleansing of the skin. The procedure is not recommended for people intolerant to photoprotective agents. In addition, it is contraindicated in patients with acute infectious or somatic diseases, oncological processes, diabetes mellitus, pregnancy and lactation, and the presence of keloids and warts in the intervention area.

Precautions when carrying out fruit peeling at home

If you decide to perform fruit peeling at home, you need to follow some recommendations. The effect will depend on this.

  1. It is better to do the procedure in the evening (before bedtime). This will minimize the negative effects of UV rays on the skin.
  2. If you have sensitive skin, you should choose soft AHA acids: almond and lactic.
  3. After peeling, you should not use oil-based creams for care. They create a protective film that slows down cell regeneration.

Fruit peeling is an excellent skin remedy that can be used both at home and in a specialized salon.

There is a huge selection of ready-made drugs on sale. In addition, there are a variety of recipes for making yourself. Fruit peeling will help eliminate skin problems such as teenage acne, age-related changes and many others. To get the desired result, it is important to follow simple recommendations for skin care before and after manipulation.

Why clients choose Veronika Herba Beauty and Health Center:

  • This is a beauty center where you can take care of yourself at a reasonable cost, while your face and/or body will be treated not by an ordinary cosmetologist, but by one of the best cosmetologists in Moscow. This is a completely different, higher level of service!
  • You can receive qualified help at any time convenient for you. The beauty center is open from 9:00 to 21:00, seven days a week. The main thing is to agree with your doctor in advance on the date and time of your appointment.

Sign up for a consultation with a specialist by phone +7 (495) 085-15-13

, and you will see for yourself!

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