Photoaging of facial skin: what is it, signs, causes and anti-aging remedies

An excellent alternative to expensive anti-aging professional cosmetics are pharmaceutical products for facial rejuvenation. Such preparations are no less effective, but they are much cheaper and are suitable for absolutely all skin types. Pharmacy products, when used correctly at home, help smooth out wrinkles, eliminate swelling, pimples and bags under the eyes, and whiten age spots.

Skin photoaging: what is it?

This term hides the premature appearance of wrinkles and other age-related changes that occur as a result of the negative effects of ultraviolet radiation.
And you shouldn’t think that this problem will affect anyone but young people. The process can be started at 22-23 years old or even earlier. Much depends on how often and for how long a person is exposed to direct sunlight. Please note that we are not even talking about solarium; it is generally the enemy of health.

Yes, you can develop the excellent habit of applying cream with a protection level of more than 30 SPF to all exposed areas of the body, but still encounter this phenomenon. Because it has a cumulative effect. Some researchers are generally confident that the body “remembers” all damage to the epithelium and dermis from childhood, and then, under the influence of some provoking factor, it malfunctions. In general, it’s time to understand the nature of the problem.

Benefits of medical cosmetics

Among the advantages of medical cosmetics, it is worth highlighting several of the most important positions, which accurately reflect the direction in which this type of pharmaceutical product operates.

This:

• safety;
• ubiquitous access;
• hypoallergenic;
• high quality;
• healing effect.

Explanation of terms:

• Safety is achieved through multiple clinical studies. A product is not released for sale until it has passed a series of laboratory tests and samples.
• Universal access means the ability to select and purchase pharmaceutical cosmetics in any convenient place: in a pharmacy, on online pharmacy websites, in specialized stores in the city, in online stores.
• Hypoallergenicity is achieved through delicate and careful selection of the chemical structure of the drugs.
• High quality must be proven through a huge number of checks. Without this, the product cannot be certified.
• The therapeutic effect is what people buy pharmaceutical cosmetics for.

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Mechanism of photoaging

We look so fresh and young thanks to lipids and proteins:

• The former retain moisture and form a barrier that effectively prevents the negative effects of external factors.
• The latter are the source of strength, elasticity, and resilience.

But they are gradually destroyed by ultraviolet radiation. Due to radiation, free radicals appear in the deep layers of the skin, which are oxidizing agents and damage collagen fibers. As a result, the latter cross-link and cease to fulfill their role, namely, to spring back and return the epithelium to its original state after physical contact. As a result, the surface of the body becomes uneven and wrinkled.

The catch is that in youth, the damage from UV rays is neutralized by melanocytes - special cells of the epidermis. By triggering an absorption reaction, they produce a dark pigment and thus provide a tan. But with age, these “helpers” become fewer and their levels decrease, which worsens the body’s protective functions. It is for this reason that moles and areas with a change in natural color appear on the body.

Such metamorphoses are recorded in a DNA molecule, which is subsequently reproduced in exactly this damaged form and, which is also bad, is inherited, affecting the genetics of children and grandchildren.

Composition of anti-aging cream

Anti-aging cosmetics should include several of the following components:

• Hyaluronic acid helps the skin stay firm.
• Vitamins A, E, PP, C accelerate cell regeneration.
• Hydroxy acids remove dead skin particles.
• Coenzyme Q10 reduces the visibility of wrinkles and reduces their appearance.
• Kinetin refreshes the face.
• Peptides slow down the appearance of facial wrinkles.
• Imperata root provides maximum hydration.

How to determine the degree of photoaging for prevention

This can be done based on characteristic signs - to find them or make sure of their absence, just look carefully at yourself in the mirror. For ease of comparison, we present them in table form.

Is there a possibility of making a mistake? Let's see what medicine says about this.

By age

Anti-aging creams differ by age category, and not just by skin type. The older the girl, the stronger the concentration of substances should be and the more components should be in the composition. Thus, you need to be able to choose the right anti-aging cosmetics for your age.

After 25

After 25 years, the aging process is just beginning, so the creams here will be used practically to prevent the appearance of wrinkles, and not to treat them. After 25 years, such creams must contain either collagen or coenzyme q10. They will help prevent the first wrinkles from appearing. If you start skin care from the first moments of aging, you can postpone this process for a long time.

After 30

After 30 years, the first microwrinkles appear, which are invisible, but greatly affect the overall background. To fix this, just buy a cream after 30 years with a rejuvenating effect. Components with very low concentrations will quickly cope with this problem. Here, too, you can only get by with coenzyme or collagen separately.

After 35

At this age, wrinkles do not increase significantly, but the skin itself begins to fade. Firmness and elasticity are gradually lost, and a slight sagging appears. Here you only need cream after 35 years. It should contain: glycerin, essential oils and extracts of herbs and plants. They will help nourish and moisturize the skin. Thus, the first signs of old age will begin to disappear.

After 40

After 40 years of age, a woman begins to notice small, but more noticeable wrinkles. In addition, the skin becomes saggy and more sensitive. She lacks nutrition and moisture. In this case, after 40 years of age, the cream should already contain collagen and coenzymes in medium concentrations, as well as hyaluronic acid, glycerin and essential oils. But the latter substances may be of low concentration.

After 45

After 45 years of cream, small wrinkles become larger and the face becomes noticeably older. The first signs of a lack of protective film (sebum) appear. The epidermis begins to burn faster in the sun, allergic reactions and rashes appear. Hormonal disruption begins. For this case, a cream with a medium concentration of anti-aging, moisturizing and nutrients is suitable. Glycerin, vitamins, minerals, extracts and oils, as well as thermal water are necessary components.

After 55

This is already the beginning of extreme old age. All the signs are visible: sensitivity, sagging, dryness, dehydration, sunburn, many wrinkles, microcracks. Here you need to take a cream after 55 years with a high concentration of all components: collagen, coenzyme, hyaluronic and salicylic acids, retinol, thermal water, plant extracts, essential oils, vitamins and minerals.

Clinical picture of photoaging of facial skin: what kind of problem is it?

All characteristic manifestations have long been described in detail in cosmetology and other specialized literature. And as soon as they called the epidermis after premature changes: both “sailor” and “peasant”. The term we are considering today appeared and became established only in the 80s of the twentieth century.

Although names and definitions are not the main thing. More importantly, today we know for sure that there are 2 types of effects of UV rays on the skin:

• acute - occurs quickly and at a certain moment, causes burns, provokes pigmentation;
• chronic - accumulates over time, because of which the vessels undergo changes, elasticity and turgor decrease, and neoplasms appear.

In addition, there are clear parameters by which you can determine whether the epidermis is healthy or not:

• its shade;
• degree of moisture;
• texture;
• tone;
• resistance to external aggressive environments;
• absence of disease.

In case of problems, all violations are not just expressed, but visually noticeable.

How do pharmaceutical cosmetics differ from regular ones?

The main difference between pharmacy cosmetics and regular ones is that the former bases the principle of its work on improving the health of the skin. It is not a purely decorative product and focuses on solving problematic issues of the epidermis. Cosmetics purchased at a pharmacy combine unique developments in the field of cosmetology, dermatology and pharmacology.

Another difference between pharmacy cosmetics is the mandatory certification, without which the drug is not allowed in pharmacies. In addition, medical products serve as additional treatment to the existing one, and some even serve as the main one.

Signs of photoaging of facial skin (with photo)

The following “alarm bells” will help you understand that premature age-related changes have begun:

• The dermis has acquired a dull and uneven shade, lentigo (brown spots) have appeared in some places, and dyschromia is observed.
• By feeling the cheekbones, cheeks, chin, you can detect roughness - actinic keratosis; senile acne popped up.
• The epidermis has become noticeably drier.
• Vascular lesions are visible: venous lakes, asterisks, and the like.
• Wrinkles appeared suddenly; they are not only superficial, but also deep.
• The volume of tissue has decreased, which is why there is sagging and unevenness - the contour of the face has “swollen”.

There are other indicators too, and you can focus on them.

Histological signs of photoaging

They are internal, so you need to use your imagination and imagine what the epidermis looks like in cross-section. If we move from the stratum corneum, the picture will be as follows:

• The epithelium is either atrophied or suffers from hyperkeratosis.
• Melanocytes are unevenly distributed, although this should not be the case.
• The basal cells, which act as “building material,” are damaged.
• The membranes have become much thicker.
• Collagen fibers have lost their normal structure and become intertwined.

At the same time, some may notice these “alarm bells” earlier, others later, and still others may not encounter them at all. Why is this happening?

conclusions

1. After twenty-five years, the aging process begins.
2. Signs of aging - sagging skin, the appearance of wrinkles, severe sensitivity, dryness, loss of elasticity.
3. Fading skin requires mandatory care.
4. Cosmetics with a rejuvenating effect should contain collagen or coenzyme q10.
5. Each age category has its own separate remedy, as well as for the type of epidermis.
6. Cosmetology can provide a wide range of anti-aging creams. You just need to choose the right one.
7. To take better care of yourself, you can turn to Japanese, Indian, and Korean cosmetics for help. Study its features and apply it on yourself.
8. Snail mucus, which contains only natural and beneficial microelements, can also have a positive effect.

Read how to make an analogue of an expensive anti-wrinkle cream with your own hands here.

Who is most susceptible to ultraviolet aging?

There are 4 risk groups – let’s look at the features of each of them.

People with very fair skin

They were unlucky from birth, and the paler they are, the more careful they must be. In hot weather, it is better to wear clothes with long or at least medium sleeves, as well as hats with wide brims - so that as little sun as possible falls on the body. Yes, a beautiful tan is something you want to show off after a vacation at the seaside, but health is more important.

You should remember the cumulative effect: get burned a couple of times and the processes of age-related changes have already started. And this also applies to children, because their epithelium is even more delicate than yours and mine. If a child of 7-10 years old gets several sunburns, the likelihood that after 40 years of age he will get skin cancer will increase by 2 times.

Girls and women experiencing hormonal changes

The activity, and therefore the effectiveness, of melanocytes strongly depends on the background of the body. There are several key periods of “perestroika”:

• puberty;
• pregnancy and postpartum period;
• menopause.

During them you need to be especially careful, as sensitivity to UV rays increases; with hypo- and hyperthyroidism, a shift in the balance of estrogen and/or progesterone, by the way, too.

Smokers

Tell me, what are the benefits of cigarettes? They only bring harm, and for the epidermis and lungs they are almost the first enemies. They are the ones who provide a grayish-yellow, unhealthy complexion and provoke premature age-related and genetic changes.

And men, by the way, are also better off giving them up.

Solarium fans

Due to their aggressive action, doses of type A (UVA) radiation undermine the body’s natural defenses, penetrating into the deep layers of the epidermis and destroying the bonds of collagen and elastin molecules - the natural “building materials” of our body.

Therefore, the price for a spectacular tan is too high.

Safety of pharmaceutical cosmetics

Pharmacy cosmetics, the popularity rating of which will be provided in this article, are all, without exception, safe products. However, if the buyer still has doubts, it is worth looking at the composition or looking for a symbol on the packaging that certifies, for example, that the product is hypoallergenic or approved by dermatologists.

Precautionary measures

Although cosmetics with medicinal properties are generally safe, it is not recommended to abuse them.

You should also remember a few rules that will preserve the girl’s health and beauty:

• It is always worth taking the time to read the packaging and instructions for use.

  
  When buying pharmaceutical cosmetics, even those that occupy leading positions in the popularity ratings, you should carefully read the instructions for use.

• If it is written that you should take breaks when taking a pharmacological drug, then you should not ignore such a statement, because failure to follow such recommendations can lead to a bad effect (for example, dry skin).
• Before starting to use any product, you should discuss your decision with a medical specialist (cosmetologist, dermatologist, therapist). If the drug begins to have a negative effect, it should never be ignored and you should urgently stop using the drug and consult a doctor.

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How to combat photoaging: current methods

You should not be shy, but use at least a few harmless and effective rejuvenation tools. There are many of them, but they can be divided into 3 groups:

• Work on posture - to eliminate curvature of the spine, stretch the neck, ensure correct head position; this will help normalize blood flow, microcirculation, and nutrient delivery processes.
• Various exercises – to train elasticity and stimulate collagen production; The key one is self-massage - using a dry brush and a gouache scraper.
• Anti-aging care – cosmetic and medicinal.

Now let's move on to specific options, methods and solutions.

Kurasen is an effective remedy for photoaging

This is a unique innovative drug, the main component of which is the hydrolyzate of the human placenta. It is completely safe (confirmed by research and certificates). Used for injections into a variety of areas of the body (décolleté, neck, face, hands, thighs, forearms).

Features a complex action:

• restores the life cycle of cells and slows down their aging;
• activates its own reserves of the dermis;
• improves metabolism;
• increases immunity and reparative potential.

This leads to thickening of the epidermis, lightening of age spots, smoothing out deep and medium wrinkles.

Positive dynamics are noted after the first Curasen procedure, visual results are noticeable after 5 procedures.

Cosmeceuticals against UV aging

Its achievements should be used to your advantage. Let them write on the dressing table:

1. SPA mask with marine collagen - a very interesting option is PlaReceta, which also contains placental peptides, Japanese knotweed resveratrol, amino acids. It saturates with moisture, creates the correct oval contour, and provides effective lifting.
2. Lotion with an antioxidant effect - the LNC-Cosmetic line has proven itself well. With regular use, melanin production is activated, the tone and shade of the epidermis becomes even, glycation disappears, irritation and inflammation are relieved.
3. Serum for revitalization - improves nutrition, restores freshness, accelerates metabolic processes, removes areas of hyperpigmentation. An excellent choice in this category would be GHC Placental Cosmetic based on human placenta hydrolyzate.
4. Gel fluid - for quick, harmless elimination of dehydration, to restore the epidermal barrier. Side effects - strengthening the immune system, protecting against stress. The Bb Laboratories product is often recommended, as it provides a pleasant tactile sensation even to those who are hypersensitive.

Alternative tan

We already know which rays cause photoaging - solar and ultraviolet type A (UVA). This means that you do not need to lie under them (on the beach, in a solarium), but use special cosmetics based on ketosaccharides - it will temporarily color the horn cells in the dark shade you need.

This effect will last up to a week, and this is with daily water procedures. Of course, not 28 days, like a natural tan, but there is no risk of getting burned or sunburned (and you already remember what this entails, especially for those who are at risk). Environmental friendliness and safety are clinically proven.

Is it convenient? Yes, if you do not wear white clothes immediately after applying this composition.

Types of medical cosmetics

There is a fairly large number of medical cosmetics. Each type serves as a solution to its own, unique problem.

Types available for purchase:

• moisturizing;
• nutritious;
• anti-aging;
• medicinal;
• for problem skin;
• for sensitive and dry skin;
• against early aging;
• from age spots;
• for acne;
• for hair.

In addition, all cosmetics are divided into 3 subgroups according to their cost.

Budget cosmetics

The first group is budget funds, which still do not lose in quality and benefits. The purchase of these drugs is possible in any household chemical stores and salons specializing in this, as well as in pharmacies.

Popular and affordable products:

• Maybelline;
• Rimmel;
• Green Mama;
• Gillette;
• Eveline;
• Black Pearl;
• Clean line;
• Garnier;
• La Cree.

Average price level

This is a pharmaceutical cosmetics used for the prevention and treatment of integumentary tissue.

The second type includes:

• A-Derma;
• Ducray;
• Exfoliac;
• Merck;
• Urtekram;
• Bioderma;
• Valmont;
• Phyto.

Luxury pharmaceutical cosmetics

Cosmetic products that eliminate deficiencies at the cellular level, eradicating not only their symptoms, but also the antigens themselves that awaken their appearance.

This class of products is produced by select brands with high prices:

• Vichy;
• La Roche-Posay;
• Darphin;
• Lierac;
• SkinCeuticals;
• Hauscha.

Dermatological, aesthetic and biocosmetics

There is also a distribution according to such items as dermatology, aesthetics and biocosmetics:

• Dermatological products are hypoallergenic, non-comedogenic, and are intended for particularly thin skin.
• Products that serve aesthetic purposes are not considered suitable for all skin types, are not allergen-free, but are also non-comedogenic.
• All representatives of biocosmetics are suitable for people with particularly delicate skin, but you should not expect hypoallergenicity from them.

Cosmetic products with medicinal properties include representatives of French brands:

• Vichy;
• La Roche-Posay;
• Avene;
• Uriage;
• Bioderma;
• Merck;
• Ducray.

Brands representing the aesthetic part of pharmaceutical drugs are:

• Filorga;
• SkinCeuticals;
• Lierac;
• Galenic;
• Nuxe;
• Phyto;
• Klorane.

Only Sanoflore (France) produces biocosmetics.

Prevention of skin photoaging

To prevent premature changes, you need to:

• Wear wide-brimmed hats, long sleeves, and sunglasses in summer.
• Don't go to the solarium.
• If possible, avoid being on the street between 10:00 and 16:00.
• On the beach (and just before a walk in the heat), apply creams with an SPF value of 30 units or more to the body, not forgetting to renew this “protection” every 3 hours.
• Use moisturizers with an SPF of 15 or more all year round.

It is also very important to choose the right cosmetics: it should be absorbed quickly and without traces, and be rich in components that fight free radicals.

We recommend

Bb Laboratories - Placental-amino acid ultra-moisturizing fluid

LNC — Cosmetic — Placental serum-concentrate with muscle relaxant effect

LNC — Cosmetic — Placental antioxidant lotion concentrate, 120 ml

GHC Placental Cosmetic - Concentrated serum for intensive revitalization with placenta hydrolyzate

Comparison table

Salon treatments to combat photoaging

There are 3 main methods of influence:

• Injections with drugs with beneficial properties.
• Removal of the upper layers of the epidermis.
• Rejuvenation with pulses of light waves.

If we talk about specific services, then we can consider the three most popular of them.

Biorevitalization

The patient is injected with hyaluronic acid, which not only protects against harmful UV irradiation, but also gives a powerful anti-inflammatory effect, improves tone and elasticity.

A large number of injections are given at once within one session, and there should be several visits to the cosmetologist.

Chemical peels

With this method of combating photoaging, the skin is treated by applying special compounds with an abrasive effect to it. Essentially, they corrode the upper layers of the epidermis and thereby remove hyperkeratosis and age spots, and also stimulate tissue regeneration and accelerate collagen synthesis.

This sounds good, but there is a downside. Such an impact is stress, and we already know what it results in – genetic changes.

Laser resurfacing

Horny cells are removed mechanically along with existing defects, which is quite effective. But, due to high temperature and targeted exposure, burns appear, which increase the risk of cancer.

In addition, there is also dermabrasion (treatment with a metal or nylon brush) and mesotherapy (injections of a “cocktail” of vitamins and amino acids). But all these methods of influence are even more ambiguous and traumatic, despite their comparative painlessness.

AHA acids

They are also lactic and fruit acids.
Most often they can be found in cleansers, lotions and peels. AHA acids are a kind of cleaning service for our skin. They cleanse the dermis of dead cells, draw out dirt and toxins from the pores, and make the skin smooth. Acids are not only excellent cleaners, they stimulate cellular renewal and restoration of the skin, and for those with oily skin types they make a real gift - they calm down the work of the sebaceous glands and eliminate shine.

Nordic Skin Peel exfoliant discs from Sky Iceland, price: from RUB 3,499.

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Lovers of Korean and Japanese skincare cosmetics will appreciate cleansers with fruit acids from the RomaDoma store.

Oxygen peeling with hyaluronic acid and fruit acids MISSHA at RomaDoma

Price : from 1,680 rub. Order

Apple peeling roll with fruit acids MIZON in RomaDoma

Price: from 950 rub. Order