How glycolic acid peeling treats skin imperfections

What is fruit peeling

Fruit peeling involves chemical and superficial cleansing of the skin, the effect of which occurs only on the upper layers.

The principle of operation of any chemical peel is the creation of a controlled burn, in response to which our skin launches restoration processes. The components of the fruit peeling preparation are AHA acids (alpha hydroxy acids or fruit), which extremely safely renew the epidermis and eliminate visible imperfections.

Modern fruit peeling formulas are based on natural ingredients of plant origin - grapes, sugar cane, tomato, apple, citrus fruits and others.

A course of chemical peelings with fruit acids improves the condition of the dermis, normalizes the functioning of the sebaceous glands, accelerates regeneration processes and corrects age-related changes in the face.

Natural composition

Peeling with maple extract

Post-acne effect

Phyto peeling BTpeel improves complexion, evens out the surface and tone of the skin, fights pigmentation and sagging

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For professional peelings in the salon, the following types of fruit acids can be used:

Glycolic acid is found in sugar cane or green grapes. It has a small molecular size and easily penetrates the skin. Glycolic acid can be combined with other fruit acids and components. Helps improve acne and post-acne, hyperpigmentation and decreased skin tone.

Lactic acid is formed by lactobacilli. This acid can be found not only in sour milk, but also in a number of other plant products - apples, blueberries, grapes or tomatoes. Lactic acid as a component of peelings can gently exfoliate and intensively moisturize the skin. Particularly recommended for sensitive and dry skin.

Mandelic acid is extracted from almond kernels and acts delicately. It can be used in professional peelings, as well as at home as part of regular personal care products. Ideal for sensitive and thin skin.

Malic acid is found in apples and tomatoes. Mainly used for superficial cell exfoliation. Promotes healing and suppression of inflammatory elements on the face. Therefore, it will be an excellent solution for problematic skin.

Citric acid is found in citrus plants and pineapple. Compared to other fruit acids, it is considered a heavyweight. Its key role in the effect is whitening the epidermis and antioxidant effect.

Tartaric acid is found in grapes, wine or oranges. Used to whiten, exfoliate and moisturize the skin.

Phytic acid is obtained from grains such as quinoa or rice. It has a very gentle effect on the epidermis, so it is often used in home care.

Professional cosmetologists recommend products from the following manufacturers for fruit peeling: Kosmoteros Professionnel, BTpeel (Russia), Premium Professional, AHA, A`PIEU.

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Indications

According to Olga Degtyareva, chemical peeling with acids is a universal procedure that is suitable for any skin, young and old. And in each case it will help in solving current problems.

In adolescence, it will help get rid of seborrhea - increased oiliness, give the face a matte appearance, reduce rashes and smooth out the consequences of post-acne. During the procedure, the acid dissolves the contents of the pores - “dark spots” on the face, making the skin look well-groomed and less bothered by the appearance of imperfections.

In adulthood, the procedure improves the condition of the skin, promotes its renewal and helps get rid of small expression wrinkles. She cannot cope with large ones, but even after a single procedure there is a pronounced lifting effect.

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“Superficial chemical peeling can be considered as a procedure on the eve of a release,” Olga Degtyareva clarifies. — After exposure to acids, the skin instantly tightens, and the very next day the lifting effect is visible to the naked eye. Therefore, if you want to prepare for an event and look especially good, you can do a superficial fruit peel the day before and instantly transform your skin.”

Types of fruit peeling

The depth of the effect of fruit peeling depends not only on the acid concentration, but also on the pH content. The lower the (acidity) level, the more active the acid works.

Exfoliation (or exfoliation) is considered the most superficial procedure. This type of peeling will be useful for preparing the skin for professional treatment, as well as at home as an addition to basic care.

Superficial peeling is a safe procedure for light exposure of the top layer of skin to acids; however, the effectiveness is somewhat lower when compared with other types of fruit peeling. Helps solve many aesthetic deficiencies: regulating the functioning of the sebaceous glands, smoothing out fine wrinkles, mild whitening effect, eliminating acne. A good effect can also be achieved by combining different acids.

Medium peeling can damage living cells, causing renewal of the deeper layers of the epidermis. The effect of this procedure will be more pronounced. This option is suitable for solving serious age-related changes, hyperpigmentation and post-acne.

Deep peeling is a strictly medical procedure, since the penetration of active components affects the papillary dermis. To carry out this type, be sure to contact a professional beauty center. The effect of the procedure is expressed in tightening the oval of the face, eliminating deep wrinkles and whitening the tone of the face as a whole.

WHY DO PEELINGS HAVE SUCH A LOW PH?

Let's remember the school chemistry course.

The pH level indicates what kind of environment a substance has. The environment is acidic if this indicator is 6.9 or lower. And the lower the pH, the stronger the peeling can affect the skin. We can say that the more effective and efficient it is.

But! Experts believe that the correct, safe use of products with a pH below 3.5 is only possible in a cosmetology salon. Otherwise, the irritation potential for the skin increases greatly.

Phyto peeling BTpeel has a low pH (=3.0), it is necessary to use a neutralizer. And it is highly advisable to have a professional work with him. This is especially true for BTpeel fruit peeling . It has a very low pH (=1.2). But, thanks in part to this, peeling noticeably improves complexion, evens out the surface and tone of the skin, fights pigmentation and even sagging, and is effective against blackheads and post-acne.

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Cons of fruit peeling

Any procedure has its drawbacks; before you decide, consult a cosmetologist.

• Uncomfortable sensations

When applying the peeling composition, the patient may feel a certain degree of discomfort - burning or tingling. Such symptoms are considered a completely normal manifestation of the drug.

• Specific chemical smell

The procedure for applying the drug may be accompanied by a specific and pungent odor.

• Increased skin photosensitivity

Any fruit peeling, affecting the skin, makes it vulnerable to ultraviolet radiation. Thus, the procedure increases the risk of pigmentation, especially in the warm season.

• Dry skin

After the session, the risk of increased skin dryness is especially high, because the skin is damaged and quickly loses moisture. You can deal with this yourself at home using selected post-peeling care products or a regular moisturizer.

• Skin disorder

After the procedure, the surface layer of the skin will peel off in scales within a few days, it is worth considering this before signing up for the procedure.

• Possible allergic reaction

In rare cases, an allergic reaction may occur. It results in skin redness that lasts longer than usual.

• Long rehabilitation period

In the case of deep fruit peeling, the duration of the rehabilitation period increases and requires serious care.

• Short-lived result

Fruit peeling has a short-lived effect, so it is necessary to repeat the procedure from time to time in courses prescribed individually by a specialist.

How does the fruit peeling procedure work?

Before the session, you must familiarize yourself with contraindications, such as: allergic reactions to a component of the drug, the presence of inflammation on the face, open wounds, cracks or cuts, pregnancy and lactation; fever, cancer, diabetes, cardiovascular diseases, tumors and warts, viral infections (for example, herpes), skin burns, recent tanning.

The effectiveness of the procedure does not depend on how it is carried out, because the sequence is always the same. The key to success is based on three components: the composition and concentration of the active substance in the drug, which is selected individually, the exposure time - the work of the drug must be neutralized in time, and the professionalism of the cosmetologist, since professional chemical peeling preparations cannot be used at home.

The procedure usually takes about 30 minutes and consists of the following steps:

Pre-peeling

Preparation is necessary so that the skin during the procedure better accepts the drug solution and subsequently, the active peeling process occurs more easily and quickly.

For 2 weeks before the procedure, use special gels, tonics or serums with a small content of fruit acids every day. These products will prepare the skin for the procedure - they even out the stratum corneum and enhance the effect of peeling. You also need to remember that any exposure to such components on the skin increases its photosensitivity, so apply sunscreen before going outside.

Peeling

Any peeling procedure begins with cleansing the skin with mild products that dissolve makeup and other impurities. The application of the cleanser is distributed with smooth massaging movements throughout the face and then washed off with cool water. Using a special fan brush, the peeling solution is applied in a thin layer over the entire area of ​​the face, avoiding the eyes and lips. In this case, a slight tingling and burning sensation may be felt. Don’t be scared right away, this is how the drug works. After some time, following the instructions, the cosmetologist neutralizes the product on the face, washing it off with a special solution or water. At the end of the peeling procedure, a soothing mask is applied, which will help the skin start regenerating processes.

Post-peeling

Your attending physician will inform you about all the nuances of the rehabilitation period. After peeling, you must adhere to general recommendations that will help you survive this period comfortably. For 2-3 weeks after the procedure, avoid visiting baths and saunas, swimming pools, gyms and, of course, solariums. When going outside, you should definitely protect your face from the sun using sunscreen with a maximum SPF value. Entrust facial cleansing to delicate products: without alcohol in the composition and large abrasive particles in the consistency. Moisturizing creams containing strengthening components can help restore the skin and barrier.

Absolute and relative contraindications

Contraindications to chemical peeling are divided into absolute and relative. The first group includes those in the presence of which cleaning with acids is completely prohibited. Relative contraindications are temporary or apply only to medium or deep cleansing.

The following procedures are denied in cosmetology clinics:

• Pregnant and breastfeeding girls;
• During the period of exacerbation of chronic diseases;
• With a tendency to form keloid scars;
• Persons with severe rosacea on the face;
• For clients with cancer pathologies and diabetes mellitus.

You will have to reschedule the session to a later date if a herpetic infection or dermatosis of any origin has worsened. After mesotherapy and biorevitalization, exfoliation is done no earlier than 2 months later. Treatment with oral retinoids is stopped no later than a week before the scheduled procedure. Acid cleansing is also not recommended for people taking photosensitizing drugs and antidepressants.

What is the price

The cost of one fruit peeling procedure may vary depending on the manufacturer of the drug, the type of fruit acid and its concentration, as well as on the level of the salon and the professional qualifications of the cosmetologist.

On average, the cost of fruit peeling has the following limits: from 1500 to 6000 rubles.

HOW LONG CAN PEELINGS BE STORED?

Experts recommend that you pay attention to the expiration date of peelings. It depends on the composition, manufacturer, storage conditions.

The proven fruit peeling BTpeel and Phyto peeling BTpeel have a shelf life of 24 months, that is, two years.

It is recommended to keep both peels in a room where the relative humidity is no more than 70%. Keep away from heat sources and out of reach of children. And, of course, keep away from direct sunlight.

This is also due to the natural composition of the products. The BTpeel phyto peeling contains lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, glucose, silver maple extract, and lemon seed oil.

BTpeel fruit peeling contains lactic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, maleic acid, salicylic acid.

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Where is it held?

Carrying out fruit peeling with professional high concentration preparations is possible only in the salon. The higher the percentage of active ingredient in the peeling solution, the higher the effectiveness. Only a competent specialist can select the right percentage of fruit acid to solve your problem and skin type. In addition, the therapy process must be strictly controlled and performed in a certain sequence. Otherwise, there may be serious consequences affecting your health.

The course of procedures on average consists of 6 to 10 with the required interval of 7-10 days.

Can it be done at home?

Fruit superficial peeling can be used at home. It must be remembered that the main rule when applying the drug to the skin is strict adherence to the manufacturer’s recommendations.

For independent home use, according to the law of fruit acids, the percentage of the active substance should not exceed 10%. 5-7% is ideal. A cosmetologist will also be able to help you with the selection of such products.

Photos before and after

Photo: ml_magiclab.zp, cosmetolog_spb_piter, estet_g

Popular drugs

A variety of fruit peels allows you to choose the appropriate option, taking into account the solution to specific problems. The list of drugs popular among cosmetologists and ordinary consumers is wide. Here are some products that buyers are interested in more often than others:

• Holy Land. The Israeli brand's assortment includes many options based on fruit acids. Reveal Peel with extracts of natural plants (blueberry, cane, maple, kiwi, citrus, centella) will have a gentle effect. The product cleanses the surface of dead cells and refreshes the skin. A 75 ml tube of the drug is sold for 2.2 thousand rubles.

• Alpha Complex Multifruit System from Holy Land contains an 8% mixture of fruit acids (lactic, glycolic, citric, malic, tartaric). This option removes oily shine, reduces pores, evens out surface texture, and promotes tissue renewal. A 100 ml bottle sells for 3 thousand rubles.

• Janssen Cosmetics. Concentrated gel for exfoliation with fruit acids BIO-FRUIT GEL EXFOLIATOR (content 20% or 32%). The Jansen option is suitable for the professional removal of comedones, age spots, and wrinkles for those with oily skin. A 30 ml bottle sells for 3.5 thousand rubles.

• Gemene. Light fruit peeling from a Russian manufacturer is based on a mixture of fruit acids (lactic, glycolic, malic, tartaric) with the addition of enzymes and sodium hyaluronate. This option is intended for cleansing and activating regenerative processes during home procedures. Bottles of 20 and 30 ml are sold at prices starting from 200 rubles.

• Elizavecca. Korean tonic-exfolint Hell-Pore Clean Up Aha Fruit Toner is based on AHA and BHA acids with the addition of oils, niacin, and vegetable extracts. The product helps gently exfoliate dead skin cells, softens and refreshes the skin. 200 ml bottles of tonic are sold for 850 rubles.

• Skinlite. A Korean gel exfoliant, acting on the rolling principle, easily exfoliates, softens, and moisturizes the skin. Skinlight is sold in 100 ml tubes for 250 rubles.

• Mizon. The Korean manufacturer's popular serum is Aha 8% Peeling Serum with pantheon, allantoin, plant extracts (40 ml sells for 1.5 thousand rubles), Mizon apple peeling based on the acid of the same name (120 ml for 900 rubles).

• PREMIUM. Peeling ANA 8% of Russian production contains glycolic, lactic, citric, malic acids. The Premium gel option is easy to use. A 125 ml tube costs 700 rubles.

• ARAVIA Professional. Russian-made Fruit Peel is suitable for cleansing the face and body. The version from Arabia contains a 10% concentration of AHA acids. The serum promotes tissue renewal, evens out skin texture and tone. A bottle with a 150 ml dispenser costs 1.1 thousand rubles.

• KORA. The Russian brand offers a light superficial peeling mask with a creamy texture based on fruit acids. Exfoliant from Cora is designed to cleanse, renew, and moisturize tissues. Tubes of the product of 100 ml are sold at a price of 400 rubles.

• Plazan. Peeling gel with a foaming base is offered by a Russian manufacturer. The content of active acids (lactic, citric, salicylic) is 10%. Plazan is suitable for all skin types, except hypersensitive. A 150 ml container with a dispenser sells for 600 rubles.

• Markell. The Belarusian brand offers an exfoliant for cleansing, renewal, and rejuvenation of the skin. The substance contains AHA acids, allantoin, vitamin E, sodium hyaluronate. The product from Markell is sold in disposable ampoules of 20 ml for 300 rubles.

• Planeta Organica. The composition of the gel for easy home exfoliation is rich in useful components: in addition to AHA acids, there are pineapple, papaya enzymes, oils, vitamins, and plant extracts. The option from Planet Organica is ideal for intensive regular care. Bottles of 50 ml are sold for 170 rubles.

• Cosmetolog. Russian-made peeling is ideal for regular care: cleansing, tissue renewal. The creamy texture option comes in a 50 ml tube and sells for RUB 160.

It is recommended to take a balanced approach to the choice of skin care products. For a professional procedure in a salon, the drug will be selected by a cosmetologist. It is recommended to purchase the option for home use on the advice of a doctor.

Expert opinion

Kristina Arnaudova, dermatovenerologist, cosmetologist, researcher:

– Today, chemical peeling is the most popular skin cleansing procedure. This popularity, fully deserved, is due to a wide range of solutions to various aesthetic problems: both for young skin, prone to the formation of imperfections, and for more mature skin, with signs of aging. Peels with fruit acids are considered the most popular types of all peels, as they combine effectiveness, safety, and affordable cost of the procedure. A visual representation of the sources of storage of fruit acids are fruits or berries that contain a certain cosmetic ingredient.

Fruit peeling can be started as early as adolescence, to improve the condition of the skin, and also in adulthood - to prevent and eliminate signs of aging. It is worth exfoliating the skin in a cosmetology office periodically in courses to stop the aging process. When fruit acids get on the skin, they primarily affect dead skin cells. Therefore, it is optimal to start working on the relief of the skin with superficial peels, otherwise the risk of side effects increases. Depending on the problem and the patient’s skin type, the same treatment regimen works – skin preparation and procedure sequence.

In practice, I actively use fruit peels to prepare the skin for more serious procedures. The effectiveness of this procedure is closely related to the acid concentration. The higher the concentration, the more amazing the renewal result. Before purchasing a new face cream, you should consider professional exfoliation from a specialist. After all, when buying new skin care and placing high hopes on it, you need to understand that the penetration of beneficial components into the layers of the dermis may be difficult. This is primarily due to the fact that the accumulated layer of dead cells does not allow the care product to fully penetrate and saturate with useful components.

In addition to the session, it is worth paying attention to products with a low percentage of fruit acids in the composition - 5-7%. Such assistants will fit perfectly into daily care and consolidate the results after the procedure. When using acids as the main method of exfoliating the epidermis, it should be remembered that they lead to a temporary increase in the sensitivity of the skin. Thus, the skin becomes vulnerable and exposure to direct ultraviolet rays on its surface can cause pigmentation in the post-peeling period. To protect and eliminate negative consequences, apply sunscreen with a high SPF factor before going outside.