11 best creams for problem skin - rating 2022

Ideal facial skin is not only visually beautiful; clean, matte skin primarily speaks of a healthy and strong body. But its condition is influenced daily by the environment, lifestyle, and water quality. As a result, peeling and rashes may appear. The skin itself can become dry or oily depending on its type.

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Despite the fact that manufacturers produce various toning products that can significantly improve the appearance of the skin, this mask still has to be constantly washed off. Proper care can save you from having to spend hours hiding imperfections on your face.

While everyone strives to intensively moisturize dry skin, oily skin often does not receive enough of this. Many people believe that this type needs thorough cleaning, and nutrition can be neglected. If pimples appear on the face, they can be dried with alcohol, peroxide and other means. As a result, the skin experiences stress and begins to become even more oily. Overdrying of oily skin can often cause acne.

Manufacturers develop their own care lines for different skin types, which differ in properties and ingredients.

Products aimed at improving the quality of problem skin are characterized by the following components:

• Acids.
  These can be salicylic or fruit acids. They have a peeling effect, cleanse clogged pores and skin of dead cells, thereby enhancing the process of its renewal.
• Zinc.
  Its action is aimed at regulating sebum production and reducing inflammation.
• Sulfur.
  It also has a positive effect on reducing inflammation.
• Various herbal extracts.
  This could be tea tree extract - cleanses and prevents acne, green tea - cleanses pores, tones, rosemary - slows down the growth of bacteria, aloe vera - soothes and mattifies, and others.
• Essential oils.
  They nourish and are antioxidants. They can be essential oils of rosemary, lemon, chamomile, cedar, sandalwood and others.

We present the rating of creams for problem skin 2022. The best 11 products that were selected by our experts based on user reviews and ratings.

Which cream is best for problem skin?

Of course, the condition of our skin is greatly influenced by our lifestyle, primarily by having healthy sleep and quality nutrition, rich in macro and microelements. But external care is no less important. The skin needs daily cleansing and nutrition.

• When choosing a moisturizer, you need to consider your skin type. If it is dry, damaged after dermatological treatment, then you should turn your attention to Bioderma Sebium Hydra cream. It works to reduce inflammation and intensely moisturize.
• When the skin is prone to intense breakouts that leave behind marks, you can use products from La Roche-Posay and Clean Line. Their products are aimed at combating acne and post-acne.
• For those with skin susceptible to age-related changes, creams from Vichy and The Skin House are suitable. They get rid of acne, smooth out wrinkles, make the skin smoother and even out the tone.
• Those who prefer more natural cosmetics can turn their attention to the brands ECO Laboratorie and Jurassic SPA. They use natural ingredients in their formulations and do not add parabens or sulfates.
• If there is not much inflammation, you can use Librederm cream. It doesn’t have to be applied to the entire face, you can use it pointwise; the more elongated and thinner spout of the tube dispenser will allow you to do this as conveniently as possible.

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Types of pharmaceutical cosmetics

In the presence of dermatological disorders, the main purpose of pharmaceutical cosmetics is to correct deficiencies and provide a pronounced therapeutic effect. Depending on the purpose, there are several types of funds, each of which is selected depending on the specific problem:

• for normal, dry, oily skin;
• for the treatment of acne;
• to eliminate pigmentation;
• for tightening and smoothing wrinkles;
• to cleanse sensitive skin prone to allergies and redness;
• for baby skin care.

Unlike other cosmetics, pharmaceutical cosmetics contain a higher content of active ingredients, which undergo additional testing and purification. The content of preservatives and aggressive chemical compounds in pharmaceutical cosmetics is minimal or completely absent, which means that such products are hypoallergenic, safe and ideal for sensitive skin and acne-prone skin.

Mousse exfoliant against skin inflammation Dermalogica Clear Start FlashFoliant

Mousse exfoliant against skin inflammation Dermalogica Clear Start FlashFoliant The word “mousse exfoliant” can be misleading: usually such products need to be washed off with water, but not Clear Start FlashFoliant.
It really does a great job of unclogging pores, neutralizing blackheads, exfoliating, preventing the appearance of imperfections, evening out tone and adding radiance to the skin - and it does all this when it's on the face. That is, in essence, it is a multifunctional product for daily care of problem skin. Of course, all these effects are made possible thanks to a carefully thought-out composition that includes salicylic acid, beta hydroxy acid (BHA) from willow bark, as well as two extracts from tangerine peel and grapes. 3 secrets of perfect skin Margot Robbie Read

Why moisturize oily skin?

Oily and moisturized are two completely different skin conditions. Skin oil is a waxy substance that is secreted onto the surface of the skin to maintain its barrier function. Hydration refers to the deeper layers where moisture is absorbed, which makes the skin nourished and supple. Therefore, the skin can be oily on top and completely dry on the inside. In this case, it will begin to compensate for the loss of moisture by releasing even more sebum. Moisturizing controls oil production and reduces the skin's need to produce more secretions.

“This is what we call 'oil well in the desert' syndrome,” says David Orenteich, a leading dermatologist at Orentreich Medical Group. “Although sebum—the oil produced from the sebaceous glands—may be abundant, the surrounding skin may be dry. Sebum plays a role in retaining moisture in the surface cells of the skin; but it may not be enough on its own without a humidifier to help prevent water evaporation.”

Moisturizing cream for dry and very dry skin CeraVe

Moisturizing cream for dry and very dry skin CeraVe The rich, but light and completely non-greasy formula of CeraVe cream fits perfectly into the facial care ritual even in 40-degree heat. This product not only provides intense hydration throughout the day, but also restores and strengthens the skin's natural protective barrier. Plus it's non-comedogenic.

Tweaking serum for face JBP Curacen Essence

Tweakment serum for face JBP Curacen Essence Translated from English, tweakments mean a light touch, a small correction, a non-obvious correction. That is, speaking in Russian, the Curacen Essence facial serum quickly eliminates any skin problems. To be more precise, this highly concentrated product with 11 amino acids improves the overall condition of the skin, restores tone, firmness and elasticity, moisturizes, evens out the complexion and has a powerful lifting effect. By the way, it can be applied to the skin before using a mesoscooter - the effect will be amazing.

Académie Programme Anti-Rougeurs

Program for removing redness Académie Programme Anti-Rougeurs Deep fine wrinkles, dryness, dullness, loss of tone, redness and microtraumas - this whole list of problems is dealt with in a short period by the program, or, better said, cream, Programme Anti-Rougeurs.
It contains a silicon derivative and extracts of linden, kudzu and horse chestnut, which reduce skin reactivity several times, protect against free radicals, strengthen capillaries and saturate with moisture. Text: Svetlana Antonova

Face cream-gel Uriage Bariéderm-Cica Daily Gel-Crème

Face cream gel Uriage Bariéderm-Cica Daily Gel-Crème Bariéderm-Cica Daily Gel-Crème is a godsend for damaged and tired skin, susceptible to stress and aggressive external factors. Thermal water, prebiotic inulin, Asian centella extract, vitamin B5 and copper and zinc gluconates in its composition take care of skin hydration, firmness and elasticity. In addition, this cream-gel has a light watery texture that is absorbed in seconds, does not weigh down the skin and does not leave a sticky film.

Care for oily and problematic skin

Oily skin is an inevitable consequence of increased activity of the sebaceous glands. Increased sebum secretion is most often due to the constitutional characteristics of the skin, but can be a consequence of hormonal imbalance, for example, during puberty or during pregnancy; provoked by neuropsychiatric disorders (schizophrenia, manic-depressive psychosis, post-encephalic and post-stroke syndrome); some endocrine diseases, pathology of the gastrointestinal tract, inadequate cosmetic skin care.

Oily and problem skin occurs in women and men, more often in young people. A grayish tint to the skin, a pronounced oily sheen, a rough pattern, a rough surface, large pores, acne - this is not a complete list of depressing symptoms characteristic of oily skin. And if in winter, when the central heating is turned on, oily skin becomes somewhat drier, then in summer all problems worsen.

Oily skin requires constant special care. However, excessive enthusiasm can provoke an increase in the secretory activity of the sebaceous glands, while the surface layers of the skin may become dry and dehydrated. In this regard, the main concept of care is “Problem skin - gentle care”, while simultaneously influencing all factors in the pathogenesis of problematic oily skin.

In the development of seborrhea and the most common complication that occurs against its background, acne, several pathogenetic factors are identified:

1. hyperproduction of sebaceous gland secretions;
2. follicular hyperkeratosis;
3. bacterial activity;
4. inflammation.

An increase in the amount of sebum is accompanied by its qualitative changes. These changes primarily affect the concentration of linoleic acid, an unsaturated fatty acid that is an essential building block of any cell membrane. A decrease in the concentration of linoleic acid leads to a decrease in the pH of sebum, a change in the permeability of the follicular epithelium and a disruption of the barrier function of the epithelium. Favorable conditions are created for the growth of microorganisms on the surface of the skin and inside the follicles. These are primarily Propionibacterium acnes, fungi of the genus Pytirosporum and Staphylococcus epidermitis. During their life, these microorganisms utilize sebum using various lipases, which leads to an increase in the concentration of free fatty acids in the sebum and a decrease in the bactericidal and fungicidal properties of the skin.

Disruption of the keratinization processes in the upper part of the hair follicle leads to the accumulation of sebaceous gland secretions in the hair follicle and the formation of first microcomedones, and then closed and open comedones. In comedonal conditions, microorganisms actively multiply, as a result of which inflammatory mediators are released and inflammatory elements appear in the dermis.

Care for oily skin thus consists of high-quality cleansing, reducing microbial contamination, reducing sebaceous secretion, eliminating hyperkeratosis, improving appearance (masking skin defects), protecting from the sun and other sources of ultraviolet radiation, moisturizing and absorbing sebum.

Cleansing should be done gently and delicately, no matter how rough and greasy the skin may be. Among the products that carefully cleanse oily skin prone to acne formation are soaps, foams, emulsions, gels, milks, lotions, and tonics. When washing your face, it is always better to use warm or room temperature water, do not rub the skin with your hands or a sponge, and be sure to rinse off the detergent well. Cleansers should have a neutral or acidic pH, since changing the pH to alkaline is a good condition for P. acnes colonization. It's best to avoid bar soaps, which are more drying to the skin because they contain harsher ingredients. It is preferable to use syndet soap - the so-called “soap-free soap” with a pH of 5.5–7.0. For these purposes, Exfoliac is offered - a cleansing foaming gel containing ammonium lactate, which has a keratoregulating effect; zinc lactate, which reduces sebum secretion; a combination of soft surfactants (surfactants) that qualitatively cleanse the skin, do not disturb the hydrolipid film and do not cause reactive hyperseborrhea.

You need to wash your face 1-2 times a day. The choice of cleansers depends on the individual sensitivity of the patient's skin. In some people, frequent washing with soaps and gels causes the appearance of erythematous-squamous rashes and a decrease in the barrier properties of the skin. They can recommend the new Exfoliac skin cleanser, a micellar cleansing water that can also be used to remove makeup. Micellar cleansing water gently cleanses the skin, does not contain alcohol, soap or dyes. A composition of water and soft surfactants forms microspheres, invisible to the naked eye, which are capable of removing impurities and makeup residues mixed with sebum from the surface of the skin, without requiring rinsing with water. Micellar water is also used twice a day: in the morning - to cleanse the skin and prepare it for the application of therapeutic products or additional care products, and in the evening - to remove makeup, improve skin health, remove excess sebum and sweat.

After thorough cleansing, it is advisable to use exfoliating products 2-3 times a week. Exfoliation is a procedure for removing horny scales, which in oily skin do not exfoliate on their own. The purpose of this procedure is to smooth the surface of the skin, improve its texture and color, free the mouths of the pilosebaceous follicles from substances accumulated there and thus ensure a freer outflow of sebum. For the purpose of exfoliation, mechanical and chemical methods (scrubs, creams, masks) are used. Scrubs contain abrasive substances. To prevent the action from being too rough and damaging the skin, it is not recommended to rub it too hard. Exfoliant creams, which may include small concentrations (1–2%) of alpha, beta and polyhydroxy acids, are more gentle on the skin. For example, Exfoliac exfoliating gel contains free alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) (glycolic acid), which have a chemical exfoliating effect; neutralized ANA (ammonium lactate), which has a moisturizing and keratoregulating effect, polyethylene particles that gently exfoliate horny cells without the risk of irritation. In addition, the exfoliating gel contains glycerol for hydration. For more effective skin cleansing - synthetic detergents.

It is recommended to use this exfoliant no more than 2-3 times a week, since exfoliation of the skin should not be overused. The thickness of the stratum corneum is limited, and after its removal, further attempts at exfoliation lead to damage to the stratum corneum. The skin becomes easily wounded, hyperemic, irritated, with increased sensitivity.

Unfortunately, both patients and some cosmetologists still practice classic traumatic cleansing with squeezing and coagulation, which in most cases not only does not lead to a lasting positive result, but also leads to the formation of iatrogenic skin defects. Frequent intense squeezing, especially with the use of a metal spoon, causes premature aging of the skin, and after coagulation scars of varying severity remain. When trying to cleanse the skin of pustules, there is always a risk of microorganisms disseminating over the entire surface and the appearance of many additional pustules.

A tonic lotion or freshener is selected in accordance with the severity of acne and the intensity of sebum secretion. With moderate hypersecretion, thick sebaceous secretion and the absence or small amount of inflammatory elements, it is advisable to use non-alcoholic lotions with the addition of aloe extract, chamomile, gammomelis, calendula, menthol and eucalyptus oils, which improves microcirculation, reduces inflammation and skin irritation. A good effect is also observed when using lotions containing AHA, as they have a keratoregulating and moisturizing effect.

For example, Exfoliac lotion contains AHAs and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) (glycolic, lactic and salicylic acids), zinc pyrrolidone, which has a sebum-regulating effect, and bisabolol as an anti-inflammatory and soothing agent. The drug is intended for use on large areas: face, chest, back; effective for comedones and pustules. In cases of severe hypersecretion and the presence of acne, preference is given to drugs with antimicrobial effects. In this case, the drug is applied locally. Exfoliac NC-Gel contains niacinamide or nicotinamide (a derivative of vitamin B3), which has anti-inflammatory, antihistamine and antiradical effects; ethyl alcohol, aluminum and magnesium silicate to give a matting effect. The gel is applied morning and evening to the inflamed areas.

Moisturizers are an important component of any skin care. The most popular way to hydrate is to use moisturizers. If the fat content is high, it is better to do without cream altogether, replacing it with tonic, gel, serum or milk. If a cream is still used, it should not be in the form of a greasy cream or ointment, and should not contain comedogenic compounds that impede the outflow of sebum. Typically, these requirements are taken into account by manufacturers of professional cosmetics. The choice of cream must be approached individually, taking into account the characteristics of the skin, the treatment being performed, the time of year, etc.

For oily, acne-prone skin, it is not recommended to use film-forming occlusive moisturizers. It is preferable to use products containing natural humectant factor (NHF) in combination with anti-inflammatory and nourishing ingredients, such as Exfoliac revitalizing moisturizer. It contains ceramides, which restore the skin barrier; triglycerides - compensate for the damaged hydrolipid film; alpha-bisabolol has a calming effect; glycerin - moisturizing. This cream can be used for severe skin dehydration, in particular after treatment with Roaccutane.

Patients with oily skin prone to acne need to remember that it is impossible to cure seborrhea and acne once and for all, but they can be kept under control. For this purpose, it is necessary to use pathogenetic cosmetics during care.

The main active substances contained in them can be divided into several groups according to their mechanism of action:

1. Seboregulators: retinoids (retinol, retinaldehyde, 18-beta-glyceric acid in combination with zinc, etc.), 5-alpha reductase blockers (extracts of sabal and saw palmetto, fireweed, pumpkin, green tea, zinc, gamma-linolenic and linoleic acid, azenoloic acid, etc.), plant extracts (burdock, cedar, fir, cornflower, etc.).
2. Regulators of proliferation and differentiation: nordihydroguaiaretic acid, retinoids, lipolic and linolenic acids, borage oil, avocado, phosphatidylcholine, etc.
3. Anti-inflammatory: linoleic and gamma-linolenic acids, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, plant extracts (black poplar, witch hazel, aloe vera, chamomile, calendula, tea tree leaves, sage, linden, alfalfa, tricolor violet, etc.), allantoin, bisabolol, panthenol, 5-alpha reductase blockers, azelaic acid and antibacterial substances (indirectly).
4. Antibacterial, antimycotic: triclosan, triclocarban, miramistin, sulfur, plant extracts (calendula, chamomile, burdock, cedar, fir, rosemary, green tea, kiwi, orange, juniper, spruce needles, etc.), piroctone olamine, tea tree essential oils , cloves, lemon, bergamot, cedar.
5. Keratolytic: alpha and beta hydroxy acids, a combination of alpha hydroxy acids with amino acids, retinoids, azeloic acid, bodyaga, sulfur, enzymes (papain, bromelain, etc.).
6. Matting agents (fat sorbents): silicon, aluminum and calcium silicates, polymer granules, clay, etc.

Most creams intended for the care of oily skin are multifunctional and contain a combination of active substances with a different spectrum of pathogenetic action.

For example, Acnomega 100 and Acnomega 200 creams contain an original keratoactive complex consisting of alpha, beta and omega hydroxy acids, zinc gluconate and bisabolol. These creams have a keratoregulating, anti-inflammatory, sebum-regulating, mattifying and pigment-constricting effect and are intended for the care of skin with mild to moderate acne. Due to the lack of photosensitizing effects of the drugs, they can be used in the summer, unlike some other cosmetics containing, for example, retinoids. In addition, which is very important, they do not have a teratogenic effect and are not contraindicated for pregnant and lactating women.

For people with oily problem skin, it is very important to improve the appearance of visible areas of the skin. This gives them self-confidence, improves their mood, gets rid of inhibitions and ultimately promotes recovery. Decorative cosmetics help achieve this goal. The use of makeup for acne and oily skin helps to hide rashes, smooth out unevenness, highlight individual advantages of the face, make imperfections less noticeable, moisturize the skin, protect it from drying out, and provide sun protection, since many makeup components contain sunscreen substances. Contrary to what some experts believe, makeup does not interfere with the treatment process. Most external medicinal products exert their effect in the first hour after application, which means that decorative cosmetics can be applied without any harm to the skin an hour after external medicinal or therapeutic-and-prophylactic agents, and in the evening the skin can be cleansed before their re-application.

Modern decorative cosmetics included in the treatment and prophylactic lines have a light texture, do not interfere with sebum and sweating, do not clog the mouths of sweat glands and hair follicles, do not contribute to the formation of comedones, do not cause irritation, and are not allergenic. The variety of shades of concealers makes their presence on the skin almost invisible, which allows them to be used not only by women, but also by men.

Regular use of sunscreen is also important in a skin care program for oily skin. Sun exposure is harmful to any skin, although sometimes it seems that in the summer the skin looks much better, there are fewer rashes and unevenness. However, this is only a disguise and not a solution to the problem. In addition to premature aging, age spots, skin tumors, which can be induced by sun exposure, patients with oily skin experience increased sebaceous secretion in the hot season, the formation of a large number of comedones and enlarged pores. For patients with oily skin and acne, it is better to choose sunscreens in the form of emulsions or light creams. The degree of sun protection depends on the skin phototype (the lighter the skin, the higher the SPF protective factor should be), as well as on the medicinal and medicinal and cosmetic products that the patient uses.

Maximum sun protection should be carried out during treatment with keratolytic as well as photosensitizing agents. Many therapeutic and prophylactic cosmetic lines contain sunscreens adapted to the problems of oily skin. In particular, the Exfoliac line features a lightweight sunscreen SPF 25 designed for oily and combination skin. Chemical and mineral sunscreens provide protection against ultraviolet rays of group A (UVA) and ultraviolet rays of group B (UVB), AHA esters moisturize the skin, mattifying microparticles eliminate skin shine. It is recommended to apply the cream 30 minutes before going out into the sun and renew it as often as possible. Any sunscreen is applied at the very end of skin care procedures on top of decorative or medicinal substances.

After you stop spending time in the sun, you should wash off the sunscreen with one of the gentle cleansers, such as Exfoliac micellar cleansing water.

Literature

1. Akhtyamov S. N., Butov Yu. S. Practical dermatocosmetology. Uch. allowance. M., 2003. 400 p.
2. Daukovsky S. B., Daukovsky B. M. Plants and cosmetics. Perm: Uralpress, 1994.
3. Mayorova A.V., Akhtyamov S.N., Shapovalov V.S. Acne in the practice of a dermatocosmetologist. M.: LLC "Firm Clovel", 2005. 192 p.
4. Margolina A. N., Hernandez E. I. New cosmetology. Volume 1. M.: LLC "Firm Clovel", 2005. 424 p.
5. Ozerskaya O. S. Cosmetology. St. Petersburg: GIPP, 2001. 176 p.
6. Hernandez E., Margolina A., Petrukhina A. Skin lipid barrier and cosmetics. 3rd ed., add. M.: LLC "Firm Clovel", 2005. 400 p.
7. Albanova V.I., Shishkova M.V. Acne. Pathogenesis, clinical picture, treatment. M.: Publishing House Binom, 2009.

N. F. Yarovaya, Candidate of Medical Sciences, Associate Professor

GOU DPO RMAPO, Moscow

Contact information about the author for correspondence

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