Chemical peeling for the face (exfoliation) is a cosmetic procedure that allows you to renew the surface layers of the skin. With the help of weak acids, dying cells are dissolved and natural regenerative processes are stimulated. Due to this, the face becomes fresh and clean, pigment spots and minor defects disappear. Peels are often included in complex anti-aging programs, as they improve the penetration of other active ingredients into the skin, including hyaluronic acid.
Why exfoliation is so important for beautiful skin
Our skin is constantly regenerating, and within 4 weeks a new cell makes its way to the top layer of skin.
All these days in the cycle, the upper keratinized scales fall off on their own. This is a natural exfoliation process. If it were always like this, we would look better, but, alas, starting from the age of 14, although we do not notice it, and until the age of 23, the exfoliation process proceeds at an increasingly sluggish pace. Horny scales do not fall off in even layers and do not immediately create roughness. Moreover, the horny scales often detach from one or more parts. Imagine a fish whose scales stick out in different directions. No specularity or shine. So it is with us. Instead of shine and bright colors, dullness is visible, the skin takes on an unhealthy shade. Children do not need exfoliation; it goes well for them as is. But in adults it goes away with problems. Therefore, helping the scales fall off and doing it so that the remaining layer is even is the main task of proper exfoliation.
Mechanism of action
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The result of using an exfoliant cream depends on the ingredients it contains. The components of the product are absorbed into the skin, dissolving and eliminating keratinized, excess particles. At the same time, the natural processes of creating new cells are accelerated. Cosmetologists borrowed this idea from dermatologists. After all, it is on this principle that medicinal drugs that fight skin pathologies work.
When dead particles are removed from the surface of the skin, its cells begin to quickly renew themselves, replacing the vacant space with elastic tissues. At the same time, even minor scars and wrinkles disappear, and the skin itself acquires a beautiful glow. The exfoliant cream has a rejuvenating effect, which is clearly visible even after the first use.
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Such products should be used with extreme caution. After all, aggressive chemical composition can damage the skin in inept hands. If you use such a cream, following the instructions exactly, you can get amazing results.
What is “correct” exfoliation?
Most peels usually deal with the epidermis and are the process of removing old, dead skin cells from the top layer of skin. This is called superficial peeling. We will not talk about medium and deep peelings in this article; they are done under the supervision of cosmetologists. So, what is correct peeling: If after our exfoliation the horny scales are removed and the remaining layer is smooth and undamaged, then this is correct exfoliation. If you think that any peeling or scrub gives such an effect, then you are mistaken, but this will be discussed below.
Varieties
Exfoliant creams can restore lost skin elasticity and slow down the natural processes of aging and fading of the dermis. The effect of using the product depends on its type and the type of skin itself. There are several types of creams.
- Acid cream-masks. Exfoliants of this type have a delicate effect on the skin due to the presence of active acids in the composition. They dissolve the cellular connections of dead cells with living ones, thus eliminating all kinds of impurities.
- Acid-free creams. Such products do not have an aggressive effect during cleansing. They contain natural, delicate extracts that are recommended for those with overly sensitive or mature skin. After using such drugs, there is definitely no traumatic effect observed.
- Enzyme exfoliants. The enzymes included in such products carefully act on keratinized particles, touching only the outer layer.
How often should you exfoliate?
Let's start with the fact that based on circadian rhythms, our skin carries out independent exfoliation every evening from 20 to 22 hours. Our task is to help her with this, or at least not to interfere. How to help?
- Remove makeup, cleanse your face of dirt and waste products during the day.
- Use facial cleansers with exfoliating ingredients. Their percentage is very small, so this is not a full-fledged peeling, but helps to fall off those scales that are practically hanging by a thread.
If you don’t do this, your appearance will require peeling more often than once a week, and this is not correct, as we will discuss below. If your evening cleansers help exfoliate, i.e. contain special ingredients for exfoliation, then in most cases peeling once a week is enough. There are exceptions. When you're over 30, daily exfoliation may not be enough and you'll need a deeper exfoliation at the salon.* *Deep and medium peels do more than simply remove the stratum corneum.
Who is the procedure not recommended for?
Contraindications to exfoliation are:
- herpes infection and other infectious diseases in the active stage
- diseases of the kidneys, liver, cardiovascular system, cancer and other severe somatic diseases
- diabetes
– pregnancy and breastfeeding period
- minor age (under 18 years old)
- individual intolerance and allergic reaction to the ingredients of the composition
- damage to the skin, inflammation of the skin
Before the exfoliation procedure, consultation with a specialist is necessary in any case, because In addition to absolute contraindications, there are other reasons that may justify postponing the procedure for some time. Thus, peeling is not recommended while taking a number of medications (immunosuppressants, retinoids, etc.) or in the case of recently performed traumatic cosmetic procedures (deep cleaning, mesotherapy, etc.). In addition, contraindications also include the presence of a tan and menstruation period.
Methods of exfoliation
Acid peels
Acids are a group of cellular turnover accelerators.
The principle of action of acid peels is simple: They weaken the “glue” that holds skin cells together, and the cell falls off on its own. Of all the AHA acids (glycolic, lactic, malic, etc.) used in peels, lactic acid is the safest. Lactic acid
has a larger molecular chain structure, which allows for gentler penetration and safer results. In addition, lactic acid has better lightening properties as well as excellent hydrating effects. Right away it is both gentle and effective.
Glycolic acid
is another AHA acid and is more widely used in chemical peels.
Glycolic acid has a shorter molecular chain structure, so it irritates the skin more easily. On the other hand, it does a better job of “loosening the glue” that binds skin cells together. Therefore, Glycolic Acid does a better job of exfoliating, resulting in a smoother, brighter, and clearer complexion. Beta hydroxy acids
or BHAs work in the same way as AHAs, they loosen the “glue.” The most famous BHA is salicylic acid, which is found in willow bark. The benefit of salicylic acid is that it has the ability to penetrate fats and lipids, making it great for degreasing clogs. Therefore, peelings with are recommended for exfoliation for people with oily skin. salicylic acid.
— What complications can arise after peeling at home and how to deal with them?
— There can be a lot of complications, but encountering them can be avoided if you pay attention to the indications and contraindications for the use of cosmetics intended specifically for home use.
And, I repeat, strictly follow the instructions. Unfortunately, many patients tend to violate the rules of use - for example, leave the product on longer, instead of the recommended 10 minutes, leave it for the entire 15 - “so that there is definitely an effect.” As a result, the effect will not increase, but, on the contrary, unforeseen problems will arise. If the instructions say “if you feel a burning sensation, remove the product immediately,” then you should not ignore this warning and stoically endure until the last. You should not take such liberties during home peeling.
There is no need to eliminate complications on your own; it is better to consult a doctor immediately. The most common complication after peeling is pigmentation, which you have to put up with for several weeks or months. Pigmentation occurs, among other things, due to non-compliance with the rules of post-peeling care.
Scrubs and gomazhi, mechanical exfoliation
Scrubs are considered “mechanical” exfoliation.
The principle of a scrub is simple, it contains mechanical abrasives in a cream or solution designed to “wipe away” dead skin cells through manual manipulation. And here is the most important thing. Scrubs can be dangerous, depending on what's inside them. For example, if the injected rough particle is uneven and jagged, it can cause micro-tears in the skin, which can cause damage to your complexion over time. Rub lacquered furniture with salt or sugar and the results will not be long in coming. Scratches and damage will not give the skin shine and even color. Even by removing some particles of the stratum corneum, you will damage the other layer and the result will not be long in coming. Your skin will lose its shine and color much faster. It is no coincidence that some girls increase the frequency of scrubbing to 2-3 times a week. Why then do they scrub their faces with such scrubs?
, you ask, if there is no result? There is a result, but not the same. Firstly, like any scrub, it removes some of the particles that are ready to fall off. Secondly, when rubbing the skin with sharp particles, a certain aggressive “massage” occurs, the blood comes to the face and it really looks better for a while, thereby hiding the damage caused by the scrub. It is these improvements that the result of scrubbing is perceived to be. But the next day or the day after, the situation worsens and the shortcomings are visible to the naked eye.
The scrub should contain only soft, non-sharp particles
. The task of the scrub is to mechanically press on the scales, causing the “glue” holding them together to stop working. The scrub does not “tear off” the particles, but kneads the “glue”
Tips for choosing
In order to stock up on a truly effective product, you should learn to understand its chemical composition. Thus, the concentration of active ingredients in the exfoliant plays a very important role. Alpha acids in the composition of the product should be about 5-10%, and beta acids - a maximum of 2%. It is very important to pay attention to this nuance and choose the right cream. If there are too few acids, then you simply will not see any effect, but if their concentration exceeds the permissible level, then you risk severely damaging the skin. Believe me, to return the dermis to its former state you will have to make titanic efforts.
Feedback on the most popular creams
If possible, read reviews about the brand you like. Experts advise choosing products from popular brands with a good reputation. For example, reviews of the exfoliant cream “Bark” with fruit acids are overwhelmingly positive. Girls who have used this product note its high effectiveness and safety. According to them, the exfoliant cream “Cora” perfectly cleanses the skin, eliminates minor imperfections and tones it. Even after one application, the effect becomes visible: clean, smooth skin, radiant with health. It perfectly revives problematic skin, lightens age spots, eliminates small scars and post-acne - that’s what the “Bark” cream mask is capable of. The exfoliant of this brand is popular and has rave reviews, so you can safely buy it without any worries. Just be sure to choose a product that suits your skin type.
“Belita Vitex” is another equally popular cream mask with fruit acids. Reviews about the exfoliant of this brand are also mostly positive. The product from the Belarusian manufacturer gives excellent results after the first use. The skin acquires an even tone, healthy appearance and shine. Girls who have used this product note a pleasant feeling of freshness and lightness after the procedure. According to reviews, the exfoliant cream “Belita Vitex” is absolutely safe when used correctly and gives excellent results.
Expert recommendations
True, manufacturers do not often honestly indicate the percentage of active ingredients. But this does not mean that you cannot determine it yourself. You can determine the concentration of components by paying attention to the order of the ingredients listed. For example, water-soluble acids should be in 3rd, 4th or 5th place, but salicylic acid should be no higher than in the middle of this list. And pay attention to one more nuance: the composition must contain acids, and not their derivatives or the substances from which they are obtained.
Some people mistake retinol for a substance that has the properties of water-soluble acids. After all, it is often added to exfoliant creams. But in fact, these components have completely opposite purposes. Retinol does not cause peeling or remove dead particles; on the contrary, it is designed to make the skin soft.
Secrets of successful application
When choosing this care product, consider the characteristics of your skin type and care for it.
- Not every epidermis tolerates the effects of AHA and BHA acids well. They cause irritation and increase sensitivity. If you have sensitive skin prone to redness and allergies, an exfoliant with a high concentration of acids will most likely not be suitable for you.
- For oily skin, exfoliate in the morning. Dry and normal before bed.
- Dry epidermis is exfoliated no more than once every 2 weeks.
- For skin prone to rashes, use gels and creams with BHA acids.
- Night creams with alpha hydroxy acids are suitable for fading, aging epidermis.
- The more delicate your skin, the softer the product should be. Be careful with compounds containing large abrasive particles. They may scratch your face. The best option for sensitive types is gommage.
- If you use a treatment containing retinoids, carry out the exfoliation procedure in a course (for example, every 3 months for 2 weeks). During this time, avoid products with retinoids to avoid burns.
- Be sure to wait until the product is completely absorbed if you use it in the morning. And only then apply makeup. The pores will have time to close, particles of cosmetics will not get into them and will not contaminate the epidermis.
- Regardless of how active the sun is, use creams with a UV barrier when using exfoliants. In winter, the SPF factor may be slightly lower than in summer.
- Products with a high concentration of AHA acid can only be used when the weather is cloudy and cool outside.
- Aggressive chemical exfoliants are used in a course, according to the scheme indicated on the label.
