How to do face sculpting correctly for different types

From this article you will learn how to correctly sculpt your face step by step; we will provide detailed instructions, diagrams, photos and videos. We will also talk about the best products for contouring, the differences between working with oily and dry concealers.

Let's start by defining technology. What it is? This is a method of applying makeup that simulates an oval shape. Using a palette with foundation and other coatings, you can hide imperfections and highlight natural features, softening them or highlighting them. This type of makeup appeared and became popular many years ago - in the seventies in Hollywood.

Sculpting Basics

First of all, you need to find out what type of face you have. It will be easier for you to determine this if you put your hair in a ponytail and look in the mirror. Trace the reflection with lipstick or marker. Match the resulting drawing with the geometric figure that most closely resembles it. The second stage is the selection of a palette and materials for work.

What cosmetics and tools are needed for contouring?

You need to choose a palette for your color type: spring, summer, autumn or winter. This can be difficult, since the set often contains one tone that is too saturated or light. In this case, you can get the options you need in separate packaging.

Remember a few rules:

• Makeup base should not contain glitter.
• Products with a shiny effect can only be used on the cheekbones, literally a few points.
• To change the oval, purchase three shades: close to natural, darker (by one or two tones), reflective.
• Cosmetics with a creamy texture are suitable for those with dry and normal skin. With powder – for oily and combination skin. It hides unwanted shine, blends easily, and creates a weightless layer.
• Choose 2 types of blush: one light, the other darker. Delicate salmon colors suit white-skinned girls, peach colors suit darker girls. There are special sculpting products just for emphasizing the cheekbones.

In addition to the decorative products themselves, you will need tools for their distribution. These could be sponges. It is especially good to use a beauty blender with a pointed end for these purposes. This is a drop-shaped or other shaped sponge, which is convenient for applying correctors, concealers, and foundation in the corners of the eyes, nose, and lips. In addition, it shades the tone evenly and leaves no spots or borders.

If you like brushes, purchase several options:

• Flat semicircular. It is coated with it.
• Beveled, kabuki and domed. To erase boundaries between layers.
• Thin. For drawing neat lines on the nose, under the eyebrows, eyes.

How to choose a sculptor by texture

Contouring products come in dry and creamy textures. Powder sculptors are recommended for those with oily or combination skin types, because... they have a good matting effect. Such products are also easier to apply to the skin.

Creamy formulas (for example, in the form of sticks) are more suitable for normal to dry skin. But shading them requires a certain skill. If you are not confident in your abilities, give preference to dry products for sculpting makeup.

Basic rules for face sculpting

Contouring cannot be rushed; it must be approached intelligently and creatively. Make light strokes and shade them thoroughly. Pre-prepare your skin: cleanse and apply makeup base.

Usually those areas that need to be hidden are darkened. Highlight those that are important to emphasize. It is best to create makeup in daylight. Take a photo of the result; the flaws are clearly visible in the photo. Also remember that all diagrams and instructions are advisory in nature. Each person’s appearance has individual characteristics, so try not just to follow the rules, but also adapt them for yourself.

Sculpting a round face

The following steps will help you change fuzzy and smooth lines to stricter and more prominent ones:

• Darkening along the edges of the outline.
• Draw semicircular arcs on each cheek with a dark corrector, their middle should be near the ear.
• Flat relief is corrected by working on the nasolabial area. Apply light products to the inner area, limited by the intersection from the outer corners of the eyes to the lips. Apply the same tone to the bridge of your nose.
• Outline the bridge of the nose with thin strokes of rich color.
• On the chin, draw rounded arcs on the sides and in the center. Only a matte base is suitable for this.

Sculpting an oval face

This oval is considered the most proportional and does not require strong correction. But highlighting individual features will make the appearance more expressive and impressive.

• Drawing the cheekbones. Pull in your cheeks and tint the resulting depressions with blush or concealer one or two shades darker than natural. Apply highlighter or a regular light shade a little higher or lower.
• Chin. Using a small brush or the sharp end of a sponge, outline the desired contour using a rich palette. Create a highlight in the center with reflective material.
• Using the same cosmetics, place a small dot in the hollow above the lip. Using a thin soft brush painted with white, pink or beige color from the palette, outline the lips and blend the edges down and up.
• Open look. Using the same palette, line your eyebrows from below without touching them and remove the border.
• Darken the forehead area near the hairline with bronzer. Two light movements are enough.

Sculpting a Square Face

Girls with this type usually strive to make it less angular and add smoothness. The main rule is to avoid horizontal strokes. They need to be applied with gentle strokes from top to bottom or at an angle.

• Hide the protruding parts by darkening them, and cover the area from the middle of the forehead to the chin with a contrasting color.
• To round the cheeks, use a brown shade to draw a triangle with the base from the temple to the lobe and the apex in the center of the cheek. Highlight the area above the cheekbone in the outer corner of the eye. And apply blush on it that matches your appearance.
• Use a brown tone on the wings of the nose and close to your skin on the bridge of the nose.

Working with triangular type

The method of contouring this type depends on whether it is a regular triangle or an inverted one. In the first case, all efforts are aimed at visually aligning the forehead and jaw. Darken the corners at the bottom and focus on the top. Mark the temples and cheekbones with white or beige highlights. Choose the right makeup for eyebrows and eyes.

If the shape is very narrow at the bottom and widened at the top, do the opposite.

• Cover all sharp protrusions with a brown tint and blend it so as to visually round them.
• Squeeze a drop of dark product onto your chin, in the middle, and two light drops around the edges and spread in an even layer.
• The shadows on the cheeks should be drawn in the form of a diamond.

Working with diamond type

Like the oval one, this type requires least adjustment. It is characterized by a narrow top and bottom. You can either soften the contour or enhance its relief. The first option can be used for daytime makeup, and the second for evening makeup. Basically the same technique as for the triangular shape is used, but without shading the forehead.

• Make broad, light strokes, painting the center of the forehead, the back of the nose, and the chin.
• Place accents with highlighter at the temples and along the edges of the jaw. Their location depends on individual characteristics.
• Highlight not only the eyes, but also the lips.

Full face correction

Usually, owners of such an oval shape try to visually reduce their cheeks and hide a large chin. Use a cosmetics set of foundation, bronzer, highlighter, concealer and powder. In this type of makeup, it is important to focus on the eyes, eyebrows and lips. They should be noticeable.

• Use a product one or two shades darker than your skin to shade your cheeks. You can apply it to the base coat or to clean skin, and spread the base layer on top. Draw in your cheeks and paint the area under the hollow, as well as the forehead along the hairline.
• Highlight the jaw with a gray or brown shade and blend it downwards.
• Use salmon or peach blush on your cheekbones and blur the lines using the brush in a downward motion.
• A reflective coating will only be needed for the inner corners of the eyes and the area under the eyebrows.
• Apply matte bronzer over the entire contour and set the result with powder.

How to choose a sculptor by color

One of the main requirements for a fashion designer is that it should look as natural as possible on the face. This is only possible if the product matches your shade perfectly. What should you pay attention to?

When choosing a fashion designer, you should focus on your skin tone. Test products only on your face. For example, if the sculpting powder is too dark, it will not create a shadow where it should be, but will simply lie on the face. If your skin has a cool undertone (bluish, pinkish) and the powder has a warm undertone (orange, reddish), the contouring will look dirty. Therefore, choose a palette where the highlighter shade is a tone or two lighter than your skin, and the sculpting powder shade is a tone or two darker. The last one should match the shade of your own shadow, which naturally forms in the subzygomatic area.

• If you do not use a palette, but select correction products separately, to highlight areas on the face, choose a powder that is a tone or two lighter than your foundation, and to create shadows, one or two shades darker.
• Dark brown sculptors, as well as those with an orange undertone, are not suitable for fair skin. Choose a taupe shade.
• For dark skin, choose a powder darker than your skin tone with a reddish undertone.

Step-by-step instructions: how to do proper face sculpting - general rules

First of all, it is necessary to get rid of spots, unevenness, circles under the lower eyelids and other skin defects. Clean it with a special foam, gel or milk and a soft scrub, apply a day cream, moisturizer and makeup base. Then move on to individual features.

• Eyes. Lighten them up by drawing an inverted triangle shape or thin strokes. You can “open your eyes” using the same tone by sweeping it under the eyebrows.
• Nose. Cover the back with the lightest concealer. The thinner this area is, the more elegant the result. Limit it to two dark stripes. Apply the first product to the nasolabial folds if they are deep and noticeable.
• Cheekbones. Select them by drawing lines above and on them. Draw an imaginary straight line from your earlobe to the corner of your mouth. This area needs to be shaded before reaching the lips.
• Forehead. If it is low, it needs to be lightened. If, on the contrary, it is high, darken the hairline area, apply a white, pink or beige coating in the center in the form of a triangle and arcs above the eyebrows.
• Chin. It is contoured according to the same rules. Dark correctors create a clear oval and hide sharpness, while contrasting ones expand them.

Now that the makeup is spread over the face, it is important to blend it thoroughly.

• Erase the lines between the layer of concealer under your eyes and the other color.
• On the cheekbones, create shade with smooth up and down strokes.
• The shading on the forehead is blurred first towards the hair and then towards the eyebrows.
• The shade modeling the bridge of the nose is blurred by moving the brush or sponge towards the bridge of the nose, and then in the other direction. Its borders are down to the wings.

History of the appearance of technology

It’s hard to imagine, but literally a few years ago no one knew about this miracle technology.
The pioneer of the fashion trend was the Hollywood beauty Kim Kardashian, however, according to history, contouring appeared much earlier. Back in the mid-16th century, theater actors applied soot and chalk to their faces so that the audience could see their facial expressions. In the 19th century, when electricity began to be turned on during performances, this method became ineffective. In bright electric light, chalk and soot were very noticeable. That is why actors began to sculpt their faces using soft, creamy makeup products. In the era of black and white cinema, film actors darkened their cheekbones so that their faces did not look too flat. The famous actress Marlene Dietrich attached great importance to makeup and proper lighting. Makeup artist Max Factor created the so-called beauty calibrator, which allowed you to measure facial features, and thanks to which it became clear how to use shadow and light to create the ideal image. Then makeup appeared, thanks to which the face looked voluminous, but at the same time alive and natural. The actresses immediately liked the new technique, and they began to actively use it in everyday makeup.

The most qualified contouring artist at the time was the makeup artist for the film Gone with the Wind, Ben Nye. The cosmetic brand he created with the same name was extremely popular among make-up artists and makeup artists from all over the world. The first book detailing the contouring technique was published in 1945.

Moisturizing and dry correction: differences

The difference lies in the decorative means used to make the makeup. They can have a dry or creamy texture. The former are most often used for everyday life. This palette will highlight the features you want to focus on and hide problem areas. The tone will be light and dim.

Oily correctors will help create a dense coating and change your appearance almost beyond recognition. Makeup applied with such a product may be too visible in daylight. It is perfect for an evening look or a photo shoot.

Highlighter selection

Sculpting the face (the photos show step by step not only the effect of shadow, but also light) is impossible without a highlighter. Thanks to it, it is possible to highlight certain areas to give them volume and a delicate glow.

Highlighters differ in texture:

• The liquid highlighter has a water-like texture. It is recommended for use by beginners who are just mastering the contouring technique. Thanks to its light texture, you can't overdo it with this product and it's easy to layer. The liquid product creates the most natural and delicate effect.
• Creamy texture is the most versatile. It is suitable for any skin type. This highlighter is not difficult to blend. To achieve the desired effect, a pea-sized amount of product is enough.

The application of the product does not take much time as the creamy texture is well pigmented.

• The sticks have a viscous and rich creamy texture. They are most convenient to apply due to the packaging format. In addition, sticks are most often used when it is necessary to frequently transport highlighter. However, they are contraindicated for oily skin due to the risk of clogging pores.
• Dry and crumbly highlighters have a powder-like texture. They are convenient to use on oily skin, which tends to quickly absorb other textures. This product can only be applied with a brush.

When choosing a highlighter, you need to decide on the color and size of the shining particles. The shade of the product can be silver, golden or pinkish. Radiant particles are small and unnoticeable, which is necessary to create the effect of natural illumination of the skin from the inside. There are also highlighters with large sparkles, each of which is noticeable individually.

These products are appropriate for evening makeup or on set. Some companies produce highlighter palettes that combine different shades.

Expert advice

Follow the listed rules and you will get a neat and beautiful make-up.

• Shake off any excess powdery makeup from your brush or sponge. Adding the missing layer is much easier than blending the excess amount.
• Thick cream formulations are easier to use if you first warm them by squeezing or spreading them on your hand.
• The corrector strip on the cheekbones should not be placed close to the nose or chin. Maintain a distance equal to the width of two fingers.
• You need to choose an eyebrow shape that suits your type.

Makeup: how to do face sculpting for beginners, at home, step by step using photos and videos

General rules for contour makeup

• each area of ​​the face must be treated separately;
• to visually reduce or enlarge the nose, a longitudinal strip is applied to its central part
• light sculpting agent;
• the borders are carefully shaded with a specially designed brush;
• the wings of the nose darken;
• To visually shorten this element of the face, a rich tone is applied to its tip.

A facial sculptor (how to apply and shape makeup details also depends on your skin type) is not intended to create a new appearance. It only allows you to adjust the oval in such a way as to hide aesthetic errors and emphasize advantages.

It is important to provide subtle color transitions. Otherwise, the masked flaw will turn into an eye-catching accent. Incorrect placement of shading nuances will instantly disrupt the harmony of the makeup picture.

When using a highlighter, do not cover the entire facial area or the largest areas. This makeup product is intended exclusively for placing light accents. Highlighter is not used as a replacement for powder.

When cosmetically modeling your appearance, you need to use blush liberally. Their deficiency gives the face a lifeless appearance. Bronzing blush looks amazing when combined with contouring powder and matte highlighter.

Available contouring products

The First Moscow Customs Goods Store has a good selection of cosmetics and tools for creating makeup at affordable prices.

• A set of sponges and brushes for convenient and quick application of foundations, powders, blushes, and concealers. The composition includes a brush for cleaning these devices.
• Double ended contour brush.
• Six-cell palette from Pro Glow Highlight Contour Palette.
• Palette for sculpting and highlighting Palette 5 Cremes De Camouflage.
• A set of cool and warm shades for the face Nyx Highlighte Contour Pro Palette.

The assortment also includes bronzers and other decorative cosmetics.

What problems does black-and-white correction of the facial zone solve?

• giving the appearance expressiveness;
• creating contrasting accents;
• change in the contours of the chin, cheekbones, nose;
• masking anatomical defects and aesthetic errors;
• visual rejuvenation and refreshment of the image.

Make-up using sculpting products is suitable for all girls without exception. It is appropriate for everyday life, business style, and evening trends. There are no age restrictions on heavy multi-layer makeup.

Both young girls and mature women use means of visual and aesthetic correction of appearance with equal success. A facial sculptor is not a specific cosmetic product, but a set of techniques, methods and tools for changing appearance. It can be described as an everyday analogue of theatrical or cinematic makeup.

Evening make-up requires a sequence of actions

1. First, the brow ridges and the periorbital area are shaped. Apply a light shade of concealer to the skin in this area.
2. The sides of the nose, the temple area, and the jawline are covered with a dark corrector.
3. Shading the makeup contours is done with slow, smooth movements of the sponge. Start with light lines.
4. The sculpting effect is secured with transparent mattifying powder.
5. Nude blush is used as a finishing layer.

Highlighter will help older women hide expression wrinkles in the corners of the mouth and eyes, and reduce deep wrinkles on the forehead