Jessner peeling (Hollywood peeling) is a procedure that allows you to intensively exfoliate dead skin to stimulate its renewal and eliminate some defects. It should only be carried out under the close supervision of a specialist. Due to the influence of active substances, a pronounced rejuvenating effect is observed, which can subsequently be maintained without much effort.
The principle of Jessner chemical peeling - key features of the procedure
Jessner peeling, similar to any other cosmetic procedure, involves several stages of implementation:
- The master determines the individual intolerance of the composition by the client’s body.
- Next, the skin is cleaned, usually using a special solution that provides a disinfecting effect, removing residual sebum.
- After the cleaning procedure, the peeling solution is carefully applied using a cotton or gauze swab. It is quite normal to experience a burning sensation throughout the procedure as the top layer of skin is removed. Mild discomfort is certainly present, but is fully compensated by the result of the procedure.
- Applying a special solution to neutralize the effect of the solution, removing any remaining product.
Within a week after the procedure, there will be a problem of skin redness, peeling, followed by peeling off in layers. Such changes are actually something to keep in mind because not everyone is ready to go outside with such changes. But it’s worth being patient for a week to achieve the complex effect of complete skin renewal, gaining an image of beauty, health and youth. After 2-3 weeks, it is recommended to repeat the procedure. This course is carried out 4-5 more times to consolidate the effect. However, the duration of the course is determined individually for each client; for many, 2-3 procedures are enough.
Efficiency of the technique
The severity of the Jessner peeling results depends on the depth of the effect.
Superficial cleaning (applying 1 layer) will exfoliate the stratum corneum of skin cells, refresh the appearance, cleanse, narrow pores, minimize pigment formations, and various minor defects.
Medium exposure (up to 3 layers) will not only cleanse and refresh the surface of the skin, but can also significantly lighten or remove age spots, affect pronounced expression wrinkles, and eliminate shallow scars. After the procedure, the likelihood of new acne lesions and blackheads appearing decreases.
Deep cleaning (from 5 layers) is aimed at working with severe defects. After successful restoration, facial wrinkles, unevenness, scars, and pigment spots abundantly distributed on the skin disappear, large wrinkles and folds are minimized, and the oval shape is tightened. The skin looks completely renewed, the patient enjoys a youthful, blooming appearance.
You won't be able to get the perfect result quickly. Jessner cleansing is carried out in courses. An individual program will be suggested by a cosmetologist after assessing the skin condition. Typically, for dry, sensitive skin, 2-4 treatments are carried out, for oily, problematic skin - up to 6-10 procedures.
Advice. A scheme of increasing the depth of penetration of the composition is often used (superficial effect at the beginning of the course, deep at the end).
Jessner peeling is carried out in two levels. The procedure can be median or superficial:
- Superficial - the procedure is based on applying only one layer of solution, keeping it on the surface for a short time to ensure deep penetration into the composition of the epidermis. As a rule, a procedure is performed to prepare the skin for medium peels. The skin after the superficial procedure does not imply significant peeling.
- The middle procedure is working with three or more amounts of solution. In this case, the skin after peeling begins to turn red, the next day it completely acquires a brown tint, covered with a crust or film, with tightening, with severe peeling and flaking after a few days.
Precautionary measures
Jessner peeling has a wide range of contraindications, careful attention to which will protect you from unpleasant consequences. The procedure cannot be performed if:
- intolerance to the components of the solution;
- pregnancy;
- rosacea, the presence of large moles and other formations in the treatment area;
- exacerbation of herpes;
- skin diseases requiring preliminary treatment (demodex, psoriasis, eczema);
- oncology of any location;
- open wounds on the surface (scratches, abrasions, opened pimples);
- fresh tan;
- inflammation, tissue irritation;
- acute course of any disease;
- taking retinoids, products containing menthol, camphor;
- hormonal imbalance (medication, lactation, menstruation, menopause).
It is recommended to postpone the procedure in case of general ailments. Cosmetologists do not undertake interventions in the summer. Optimal period: from autumn to spring. It is recommended to complete the course completely in March. Dark-skinned people should think carefully about the advisability of performing a Jessner peel. The procedure can result in the appearance of a demarcation line that spoils the appearance.
If contraindications are excluded and all the cosmetologist’s recommendations are followed, the occurrence of complications is minimal. Normal reactions preceding the final result are the appearance of:
- redness;
- swelling;
- excessive peeling;
- dark spots, red-brown crust.
The phenomena are accompanied by moderate pain, burning, itching. All symptoms normally disappear within 7–10 days. If large subcutaneous pimples appear, spots that do not go away for a long time, signs of infection (severe pain, fever, suppuration, induration, extensive swelling), or suspected allergies (rash, persistent itching, long-lasting redness), it is recommended to consult a cosmetologist.
Note! The absence of peeling and weak skin convergence should also not be alarming. This is not a signal of low quality intervention. This circumstance is typical when carrying out surface exposure (1–2 layers).
Features and rules of care after Jessner peeling
To achieve the desired effect, it is important not only to the quality of the procedure, but also to proper care after peeling. To do this, the cosmetologist explains in detail to the client the step-by-step procedure, with recommended products and preparations for caring for the skin condition.
- Be sure to strictly follow the recommendations and instructions of the cosmetologist.
- After peeling, it is unacceptable to wash your face for 12 hours.
- Usually, a cosmetologist individually selects a set of products for intensive moisturizing and gradual restoration of the skin - the most important point for the desired effect, which should not be neglected.
- Only boiled water is suitable for washing; the surface of the skin should be wiped with blotting movements.
- You should temporarily abandon standard cosmetics and homemade masks. The bet should be made in favor of restorative, wound-healing creams and serums.
- The option of sunbathing is unacceptable; you can walk outside only if you apply a UV filter to your face with a high protection factor.
Indications for the procedure
From a cosmetological point of view, there are a number of indications for the Jessner peeling procedure. These include:
- visible scars and scars, including acne;
- acne, comedones;
- enlarged pores;
- expression and age wrinkles;
- pigmentation of the dermis;
- excessive oily skin;
- uneven relief, hyperkeratosis;
- constant peeling.
As you can see, this procedure can solve most cosmetic problems. But do not forget that the drug, like many others, has contraindications. Jessner peeling is not recommended if there is an active inflammatory process on the facial skin, there are open wounds, or a fungal or herpes infection develops. Patients with cancer undergoing chemotherapy should also refuse the procedure.
Other contraindications include lactation and pregnancy, diabetes mellitus, and blood flow disorders in this part of the body. Volumetric moles and papillomas can be injured during peeling, which can lead to a change in the structure of their cells and degeneration into a malignant neoplasm.
Features of the line
Today, the Cytolife laboratory produces several lines of peelings for cleansing and rejuvenating the skin, each of which has indications and features of use.
Among the popular cosmetics are the following:
- azelaic;
- all-season;
- Jessner peel.
These cosmetics eliminate inflammation, acne, age spots and redness, renew the layers of the epidermis, making it light, even and smooth.
Azelaine peeling
AzelAcid 20%, Laboratory Cytolife is a highly effective cosmetic product that is produced in 30 ml glass bottles.
Compound:
- azelaic acid 20%;
- mandelic acid 5%;
- lactic acid 5%;
- succinic acid 2%.
Azelaine peeling is a cosmetic product that helps cleanse the skin of pathogenic bacteria, improve the functioning of the sebaceous glands and eliminate unpleasant oily sheen. The cosmetic product has pronounced antibacterial, antioxidant and whitening properties.
Result of using the drug:
- gentle and gentle exfoliation of dead epidermal cells;
- normalization of sebum production;
- inhibition of inflammatory processes;
- skin whitening and elimination of age spots;
- restoration of smoothness, elasticity and even skin tone.
Succinic acid in the cosmetic product has antioxidant characteristics and reliably protects the skin from aggressive environmental influences.
Indications for the use of azelaine peeling: photoaging, skin pigmentation, rosacea, acne. The product is recommended for use on the face, neck, décolleté, arms, legs and body. Azelaine peeling is applied to the skin once every 7 days, duration of use is at least 4-8 sessions.
Protocol for using the drug: the drug is applied to previously cleansed skin in 3-4 layers, after 10 minutes it is washed off with plenty of cool water. Next, a cream with a softening effect is applied to the skin.
Contraindications for use:
- increased activity of the herpes virus;
- period of pregnancy and breastfeeding;
- children and adolescents up to 12 years of age;
- wounds, scratches and other damage to the skin;
- individual intolerance to the active ingredients included in the cosmetic product.
In such cases, it is best to avoid using azelaine peeling.
Procedure at home
It is not recommended to perform a Jessner peel on your own unless you have knowledge and experience in cosmetology and have never done an acid peel on yourself.
However, if you wish, you can purchase a bottle of the necessary acids at a professional store. When choosing a chemical composition, focus on a small percentage of acids - this way you can practically understand how much your skin needs.
Ideally, to better understand the essence of the procedure and your skin’s reaction to it, you should visit at least 1 peeling in the salon. You will be able to observe the actions of a professional to avoid mistakes at home.
In addition to the bottle of acids itself, purchase a healing cream for post-peeling care and in case of serious burns. These can be either classic professional ointments (Panthenol, Dexpanthenol, etc.) or creams from luxury brands (BIODERMA Cicabio Creme, LA ROCHE-POSAY Cicaplast, etc.). Study articles and videos about the Jessner peel, and then begin the procedure at home.
Below is a video that describes in detail examples of care products that will help with recovery.
Answers on questions
How many procedures are needed per course to achieve maximum effect and how often are they performed?
The duration of the course depends primarily on the composition of the exfoliant. The more aggressive the solution, the fewer procedures will be needed to achieve the effect, but the interval between them will increase.
For example, for sensitive skin, 4 sessions with a break of 7–10 days will be enough. To smooth out wrinkles or scars, you will need a more concentrated composition. In this case, only 2 sessions are performed with an interval of 2 weeks.
Can it be done during pregnancy?
In itself, skin exfoliation as a cosmetic way to improve appearance does not pose a threat to mother and child. It all depends on the composition of the drug and the depth of impact.
Doctors and cosmetologists are unanimous in their opinion - any medium and deep peelings are prohibited during pregnancy. Only superficial exfoliation with natural fruit acids is acceptable. Well, since Jessner’s solutions contain resorcinol and aggressive acids, they cannot be applied during pregnancy.
What is the best way to prepare for the procedure?
Typically, the protocol for an exfoliant indicates the need for pre-peeling. It should be started 3 weeks before the procedure.
There are several preparation options:
- Perform 2–3 superficial Jessner peels or almond peels;
- Daily use of products with fruit acids;
- Home care with retinol-based cosmetics.
All considered options smooth and thin the epidermis, which reduces the consumption of an expensive drug. In addition, pre-procedural preparation increases the rejection of scales, improves the final effect and reduces the risk of complications.
How is the Jessner peel different from the yellow peel?
The difference between the procedures is quite significant. Firstly, this is a set of ingredients. Retinoic or yellow composition contains many acids - retinoic, azelaic, phytic, ascorbic and kojic. Their action is much softer and more delicate compared to Jessner components.
Secondly, yellow peeling does not irritate the skin, peeling after it is less pronounced and goes away more evenly. This exfoliation option is most often prescribed for unclean, acne-prone facial skin. But retinoic acid also has one significant disadvantage - it, unlike Jessner’s composition, very often causes allergies. Therefore, women prone to unexpected reactions should use yellow peeling with caution.
Opinion of cosmetologists
Doctors are positive about using the procedure using the Jessner composition. The option gives tangible results; there are formulations that bring minimal discomfort. Prescriptions are made according to indications; some offer more gentle options.
The cosmetologist recognizes the danger of this option and is in no hurry to prescribe Jessner peeling.
The cosmetologist speaks positively about the results of Jessner cleansing.
The cosmetologist praises the product with a composition that has minimal side effects.
Popular brands and prices
When going for a peel, be sure to ask what product the dermatologist works with. The Salicylicpeel JS solution from Martinex has very good reviews. It contains 10% lactic acid, 14% each of salicylic acid and resorcinol.
Other brands are no less popular:
- MedicControlPeel (MSP) Russia. The drug is not cheap; for 30 ml you will have to pay 4800 rubles;
- Allura (Allure) Esthetics USA— 2480 rub. for 30 ml;
- MedPeel USA - 2600 rub. for 30 ml;
- Mediderma (Mediderma) Spain - 7130 rub. for 60 ml;
- PCA Skin USA — 2840 rub. for 30 ml.
Recently, Kaitlin and ONmacabim from Israel have been gaining popularity . A tube of their product costs about 3,000 rubles.
The essence of peeling
Medium peeling, based on the name, is something between superficial and deep intervention. The procedure affects not only the upper layers of tissue containing dead cells. The impact is aimed at part of the living, fully functioning epidermal structures.
During the intervention, a chemical burn of tissue occurs. The impact allows you to exfoliate the stratum corneum and renew some of the fully functioning cells. After successful recovery, a significant change in appearance occurs: minimizing or eliminating wrinkles, scars, tightening and strengthening the oval.
It will not be possible to achieve optimal results using herbal ingredients, as with superficial exfoliation. The intervention is performed using acids. At the same time, fruit options can only complement the composition. The basis is retinol, salicylic, trichloroacetic acid.
The medium peeling procedure must be performed by a professional cosmetologist. The intervention entails a more complex rehabilitation than after superficial exfoliation.
Post-peeling care
After washing your face after the session, treat your skin with a healing cream or apply a post-peeling mask. This will relieve irritation, reduce the risk of complications and speed up healing.
For restorative care, products with hyaluronic acid, aloe, and chamomile are suitable. Be sure to use sunscreen during the peeling course.
During the rehabilitation period it is not recommended:
- use decorative cosmetics;
- visit the solarium, bathhouse and sauna;
- sweat actively;
- stay in the cold for a long time.
Under no circumstances should you peel off any crusts that have formed from the skin, otherwise spots will remain on your face after healing. This will entail deeper peeling or other cosmetic procedures.
It is advisable to schedule your exfoliation session for the middle of the week so that peak exfoliation occurs on the weekend. Then you can calmly take care of yourself without scaring anyone with peeling skin.
Side effects
At its core, chemical peeling is a regular burn with all the ensuing consequences. The process of epidermal rejection can be accompanied by various negative reactions:
- redness of the treated surface;
- swelling;
- darkening of the skin;
- increased sensitivity of renewed tissues.
If hygiene rules are not followed, infection with bacterial microflora may occur, followed by inflammation and suppuration. In this case, you will need to use external ointments with antibiotics: Baneocin, Levomekol.
Cost of the procedure in salons
The cost of Hollywood peeling largely depends on the region, the status of the clinic, the qualifications of doctors and the drugs used. On average, the price of one procedure varies from 3,000 to 7,000 rubles.
Large clinics usually use more expensive Jessner solutions from Martinex or MedicControlPeel (MCP). Cosmetologists who perform at-home treatments use drugs at a lower cost. Accordingly, the cost of the procedure is lower.
