Jessner peeling – features and progressive possibilities of a complex procedure

Salicylic acid – 14%; lactic acid – 10%; resorcinol – 14%.

Medical product, material for exfoliation Salicylicpeel JS MCP is a combined peeling, an analogue of the Jessner composition, the activity of which is determined by its constituent lactic and salicylic acids and resorcinol. It has a pronounced exfoliating, comedolytic and depigmenting effect. This is a superficial peeling, but with a certain application technique (more layers), the results obtained can be compared with the use of medium peeling. The intensity of post-peeling reactions (hyperemia, swelling, exfoliation) also depends on the depth of exposure.

The principle of Jessner chemical peeling - key features of the procedure

Jessner peeling, similar to any other cosmetic procedure, involves several stages of implementation:

• The master determines the individual intolerance of the composition by the client’s body.
• Next, the skin is cleaned, usually using a special solution that provides a disinfecting effect, removing residual sebum.
• After the cleaning procedure, the peeling solution is carefully applied using a cotton or gauze swab. It is quite normal to experience a burning sensation throughout the procedure as the top layer of skin is removed. Mild discomfort is certainly present, but is fully compensated by the result of the procedure.
• Applying a special solution to neutralize the effect of the solution, removing any remaining product.

Within a week after the procedure, there will be a problem of skin redness, peeling, followed by peeling off in layers. Such changes are actually something to keep in mind because not everyone is ready to go outside with such changes. But it’s worth being patient for a week to achieve the complex effect of complete skin renewal, gaining an image of beauty, health and youth. After 2-3 weeks, it is recommended to repeat the procedure. This course is carried out 4-5 more times to consolidate the effect. However, the duration of the course is determined individually for each client; for many, 2-3 procedures are enough.

Features of the technique

This procedure is the most popular option for chemical peeling. It is designed for a wide spectrum of action, so it solves problems such as acne in adolescence, age spots, scars after rashes, age-related changes and oily seborrhea. A Jessner peel can be superficial or medium depending on the number of layers of product applied to the skin. As a rule, it contains three main components:

• Lactic acid. Provides a whitening and exfoliating effect, stimulates the synthesis of natural collagen, maintains the correct moisture balance in the epidermis.
• Salicylic acid. Performs the function of an anti-inflammatory substance, antiseptic and keratolytic. Under its influence, other peeling components penetrate the dermis more easily. It reduces itching and enhances regeneration, which ensures smoothing of the relief and elimination of surface defects.
• Resorcinol. Disinfects the skin, protects it from burns and scarring even when applying a large amount of the product. Helps fight acne, seborrhea and other skin diseases.

Sometimes additional components are added to the composition, for example, retinol, which enhances exfoliation. Jessner peels are not recommended for local use as the treated and untreated areas will contrast in color and texture of the epidermis. It is applied to the entire face (sometimes even to the eyelids), and is also used to rejuvenate other problem areas: hands, neck, décolleté.

Jessner peeling is carried out in two levels. The procedure can be median or superficial:

• Superficial - the procedure is based on applying only one layer of solution, keeping it on the surface for a short time to ensure deep penetration into the composition of the epidermis. As a rule, a procedure is performed to prepare the skin for medium peels. The skin after the superficial procedure does not imply significant peeling.
• The middle procedure is working with three or more amounts of solution. In this case, the skin after peeling begins to turn red, the next day it completely acquires a brown tint, covered with a crust or film, with tightening, with severe peeling and flaking after a few days.

Peeling composition

Jessner peeling is performed by cosmetologists to affect the skin at the mid-level. Also, the composition is often used for a delicate (superficial) effect on the skin, increasing the concentration of ingredients.

This type of peeling is a cocktail consisting of alpha and beta hydroxy acids, as well as an antiseptic:

• salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid, a keratolytic that has anti-inflammatory, sebum-regulating and antibacterial effects;
• lactic acid - one of the mildest AHA acids, which has a moisturizing and exfoliating effect;
• Resorcinol is an antiseptic that suppresses the development of pathogenic bacteria and reduces the risk of developing negative skin reactions.

Thus, lactic acid whitens, helps exfoliate dead skin cells, activates collagen synthesis, and also stimulates cell renewal and moisturizes.
Salicylic acid, in turn, works as an antiseptic, effectively penetrating the skin and cleansing pores of impurities. It also dries out inflammation, and most importantly, prevents itching after the procedure.

Resorcinol is an ingredient that enhances the effect of acids and also destroys bacteria.

Features and rules of care after Jessner peeling

To achieve the desired effect, it is important not only to the quality of the procedure, but also to proper care after peeling. To do this, the cosmetologist explains in detail to the client the step-by-step procedure, with recommended products and preparations for caring for the skin condition.

• Be sure to strictly follow the recommendations and instructions of the cosmetologist.
• After peeling, it is unacceptable to wash your face for 12 hours.
• Usually, a cosmetologist individually selects a set of products for intensive moisturizing and gradual restoration of the skin - the most important point for the desired effect, which should not be neglected.
• Only boiled water is suitable for washing; the surface of the skin should be wiped with blotting movements.
• You should temporarily abandon standard cosmetics and homemade masks. The bet should be made in favor of restorative, wound-healing creams and serums.
• The option of sunbathing is unacceptable; you can walk outside only if you apply a UV filter to your face with a high protection factor.

Contraindications for use

Before the procedure, a consultation with a cosmetologist is required, who will assess the condition of the skin and confirm the absence of restrictions, because Jessner peeling has the following list of contraindications:

• rosacea;
• autoimmune disorders;
• oncological pathologies;
• period of pregnancy and lactation;
• infectious and viral dermatological diseases (herpes, etc.);
• damage to the skin and neoplasms (abrasions, scratches, papillomas, local purulent inflammation, warts);
• allergic reactions to the components of the product;
• endocrine diseases (diabetes mellitus, etc.);
• elevated body temperature and other symptoms of ARVI;
• taking drugs of the retinoid group (Roaccutane, etc.).

Indications and contraindications

The peeling technique we are considering is suitable for both mature and young skin suffering from defects inherent in adolescence and youth.

Indications:

• pimples and traces of them;
• bright pigmentation of facial skin;
• bright wrinkles provoked by facial expressions;
• correction of scars and scarring;
• freckles.

You can get rid of skin defects thanks to the procedure

Contraindications:

• herpes;
• diabetes;
• cancer diseases;
• problems with the functioning of the immune system;
• women carrying a baby or breastfeeding it;
• mental problems of various types.

Contraindications should be taken into account

On a note! If these contraindications are not taken into account, the client will suffer from various complications - there may be an exacerbation of herpes, diabetes or cancer, as well as an allergic reaction.

If you want to achieve the best result, you can combine the procedure we are considering with TCA peeling and biorevitalization. If you approach the issue systematically, your face will look beautiful, fit and young.

Patient reviews

Opinions about the option vary. Some patients notice dramatic results, repeatedly turn to Jessner peeling, and recommend others to try it. There are patients who expect more or do not see positive changes as a result of the intervention.

The patient does not notice the result of the procedure.

The patient liked the result and recommends the option.

Question answer

When such procedures are carried out, it is recommended to refrain from exposure to active sun. Most experts say that after such peeling you can sunbathe for at least 30 days. But it's better to wait even longer.

Pigmentation is a direct indication for this manipulation. The fact is that Jessner peeling remarkably whitens the skin. But it is worth noting that in cosmetology there are other, more effective methods for eliminating age spots. This includes laser resurfacing and ATP therapy.

A cosmetologist will be able to accurately answer this question after consultation. Often it is necessary to conduct a course that consists of 3-6 sessions. There should be about 2-4 weeks between them.

Popular product brands

To carry out Jessner peeling at home, you can buy the ingredients at the pharmacy, make the composition yourself, and perform the procedure. This is fraught with various errors leading to complications. Even professionals do not risk reducing the cost of intervention in this way. Moreover, there are many ready-made compositions for high-quality Jessner peeling:

• Onmacabim. A classic version from the Israeli brand Onmakabim. The product not only thoroughly cleanses the skin and fights minor imperfections, but also has a noticeable lifting effect. The substance has a strong antibacterial and antiseborrheic effect. A 30 ml bottle costs 3.7 thousand rubles.

• Janssen Cosmetics. The soft version of the German brand Inspira med mfa is suitable for dry, sensitive skin. The action of the product is aimed at cleansing and eliminating minor imperfections. A 50 ml bottle costs from 2 thousand rubles.

• Sesderma. Medicines from the Mediderma Melaspeel series are suitable for solving various problems. French Sesderma products can eliminate severe acne, seborrheic keratosis, lentigo, melasma, and scars. The composition contains lactic, salicylic, citric acids. 60 ml bottles of the substance are sold for 7–8 thousand rubles.

• New peel. A popular option is the modified Jessner Anti Aging Gel peel. A mixture of lactic, salicylic, and citric acids promote tissue renewal and rejuvenation. A 50 ml bottle sells for 3 thousand rubles.

• Peel medical (BCmed). Classic version made in the USA. The product is suitable for obtaining a rejuvenating effect, improving tissue health, and smoothing the relief. A 30 ml bottle is sold for 2.7 thousand rubles.

• MedicControl Peel. A popular option is Salicylicpeel JS in the form of a lotion with a classic composition, but with a reduced content of lactic acid (10%). The product from the Russian company Martinex is characterized by a strong exfoliating and depigmenting effect. The drug MCP is popular for the fight against comedones and acne. A 30 ml bottle costs 2.5 thousand rubles.

• Enerpeel JR. Italian Enerpil has a classic composition with a high content of lactic acid (20%). This option is characterized by a healing result of the work. A 70 ml bottle of the product costs 1.3 thousand rubles.

It is recommended to completely entrust the choice of substance to a cosmetologist. The option of a product with a suitable composition, the nuances of the procedure depend on the individual characteristics of the patient.

Advantages and disadvantages

The Jessner peel is a superficial-medium type of exfoliating cleansing, as is the coral, yellow (retinoic) method of exfoliating the skin. TCA is already considered to have more serious effects. Exposure to a milk-salicylic mixture is called a less comfortable procedure than its analogues.

This is the main disadvantage of the option. Exposure requires mandatory preparation, significant rehabilitation, and does not exclude complications after exposure.

The advantages of Jessner peeling include the reasonable cost of the procedure. It is often lower than the retinol, coral exfoliation option. The method allows you to achieve effective results: getting rid of scars, wrinkles, skin tightening. The beneficial effect of the product is recognized as more noticeable than when using analogues.

TOP 5 peeling products

Opinion of cosmetologists

Doctors use medium peels in their work, get positive results, and grateful reviews from patients

Cosmetologists pay attention to the fact that the method of exfoliation is serious, entails the need for certain behavior, brings positive changes, but does not always completely solve existing aesthetic problems. Doctors say the option is not suitable for home use

The cosmetologist offers an option along with other techniques to improve the picture, but not to completely solve the problem.

The cosmetologist does not recommend using the option at home.

Cost of the procedure

The cost of the procedure is calculated based on the means used, the clinic’s pricing policy, and the qualifications of the specialist. We will indicate the average price for one Jessner peeling procedure in different cities of Russia.

Indications for use

Jessener peeling at home is indicated for numerous skin problems. If the procedure is carried out correctly and the recommendations are followed during the rehabilitation period, you will be able to get rid of:

• rosacea;
• acne;
• scars and stretch marks on the skin;
• acne;
• seborrhea;
• age spots;
• freckles;
• facial wrinkles;
• greasy shine;
• enlarged pores;
• excessive facial hair and ingrown hairs;
• sagging skin;
• uneven color.

Thus, a product based on lactic, salicylic acid and resorcinol is suitable for people of any age. The procedure is especially relevant in adolescence, when the sebaceous glands, under the influence of hormones, produce large amounts of sebum, as well as after the age of 35, when the skin loses its turgor and healthy color.

Jesser peeling can be performed for any skin type, in particular for combination and sensitive skin. The procedure is especially relevant for those with oily skin, because salicylic and lactic acids perfectly eliminate excessive amounts of fat on the surface of the skin and in the pores of the epidermis.

Have you decided to undergo a chemical facial peel? - be sure to read!

Oh, this peeling - there are so many conflicting reviews on the Internet: for some it is salvation, for others it is several days of discomfort, and still others consider this facial care procedure to be useless.

Let's try to figure it out.

Chemical peels are one of the popular facial care procedures provided by institutions with a valid license to provide medical services (why with a license - just below). They are effective and relevant both at a young age in the treatment of acne and oily skin, and at a mature age - to combat dry facial skin, pigmentation, wrinkles, and as anti-aging preventive procedures.

We have already discussed the differences between peelings and recommendations for use in our other articles, but let's repeat:

As you know, skin cells originate in the basal layer of the epidermis, and gradually rise to the stratum corneum, after which they die and peel off. In this process, skin peeling acts as a tool for removing dead cells.

There are several types of chemical peeling:

Superficial - impact on the surface of the epidermis, at the level of the stratum corneum. Usually used for still young, young skin as a cleanser or solution to specific aesthetic problems, often these are peelings with alpha hydroxy acids (AHA, pyruvic, salicylic and fruit acids)

Medium - exposure in the middle of the epidermis, where layers of living cells are already affected. This type of peeling usually causes severe peeling, redness and requires a recovery period. It is used to solve specific problems and combat age-related changes in the skin, as well as post-acne, pigmentation, expression wrinkles, small stretch marks, scars - peelings with TCA (trichloroacetic acid), 30% salicylic acid are used, including and Jessner peel.

Deep - affects all layers of living cells, down to the basal layer, partially damaging the basement membrane. It is considered an operation and is comparable to a 3rd degree burn. The rehabilitation period can last up to six months, but the effect will last up to several years. It is used for radical correction of age-related changes: removal of deep wrinkles, scars - this is, for example, phenol peeling, peeling with trichloroacetic acid in high concentration.

Chemical peeling is essentially a controlled chemical burn of the face using a gel, cream or solution based on acids, which, depending on the type, concentration and time of exposure, improve the condition of the skin:

• The bridges between cells (desmosomes) are dissolved. As a result, dead cells are exfoliated, and the epidermal barrier is not broken.
• Stimulate cellular restoration - when the upper stratum corneum is destroyed, the cells of the lower basal layer begin to actively divide.
• Stimulate fibroblasts and promote the synthesis of hyaluronic acid, collagen, elastin.
• Under the influence of acids, the stratum corneum decreases and the thickness and density of the dermis increases - the skin becomes firmer and more elastic, wrinkles are smoothed out.
• They attract water and deliver it to the epidermis, moisturizing the skin, cleanse pores and normalize the activity of the sebaceous glands, thereby reducing oily skin and preventing the appearance of acne.
• They provide an antioxidant effect and reduce the activity of the tyrosinase enzyme, which in turn suppresses melanin synthesis and leads to skin lightening.

It is precisely because of these properties of the effect of acids on the skin that there are many indications for the use of chemical peeling. Chemical peeling helps solve a very wide range of cosmetic problems:

• Hyperpigmentation.
• Wrinkles.
• Dehydration.
• Dryness.
• Hyperkeratosis.
• Seborrhea.
• Acne.
• Post-acne.
• Rosacea.
• Scarring.
• Stretch marks.
• Prevention of aging.

But at the same time, there are contraindications, even for the mildest and most superficial peeling:

• Violation of the integrity of the skin (injuries - wounds, scratches, cuts, etc.).
• Invasive procedures performed less than 2 months ago (deep cleaning, mesotherapy, laser resurfacing).
• Active inflammatory process.
• Pronounced rosacea.
• Pregnancy, lactation.
• Fever, cold.
• Any chronic and acute skin diseases, infectious skin diseases.
• Herpes in the active phase.
• Asthma.
• Hypertension.
• Oncology.
• Taking medications that increase sensitivity to the sun, immunosuppressants.
• Prolonged exposure to the sun and a fresh tan.
• Hormonal disorders
• Individual allergic reactions caused by intolerance to components and compounds in cosmetic products.

!!! To avoid discomfort and complications both during the peeling procedure and after, be sure to follow all the instructions of a cosmetologist, and do not ignore pre-peel preparation and post-peel skin care.

As we said earlier, chemical peeling is an operative procedure. Unfortunately, even the most highly qualified specialist - cosmetologist, when performing chemical peeling, cannot guarantee and foresee all the consequences of the effects of the drugs used, largely due to your individual characteristics and the state of the body at the time of the procedure.

The result of peeling (including the rehabilitation period), like the result and consequences of many other skincare procedures, is individual , which is why we can so often come across completely different (both positive and negative) reviews about this procedure. Of course, our Center also faces such situations. For example, when providing superficial peeling services using a drug that is quite popular today, and very loved by our cosmetologists because of its high efficiency and short rehabilitation period, like PRX-T®33, a frequent Client of our Center was faced with exactly this situation - a complete recovery period lasted up to three weeks. Of course, we regret this situation, but, as the manufacturer states, PRX-T®33 is a comprehensive program of professional procedures and home care for active natural restoration and rejuvenation of the skin, as a result of which the epidermis is not damaged, but new collagen is formed and the structure is renewed cells, penetrating to the papillary layer of the dermis, triggering a cascade of reactions, deeply stimulating the skin. The drug has an international patent for a unique formula after 10 years of clinical trials, more than 100 scientific studies have been conducted proving the effectiveness of the drug and more than 100 million procedures, it is safe to use even at home, there are no seasonal restrictions, the procedure takes place without much pain and has no rehabilitation period. But, even with such characteristics of the drug, after its use there may be deviations associated with your individual characteristics and skin reactions, which the specialist performing the procedure cannot determine in any way; accordingly, the rehabilitation period can be increased.

!!! In this regard, we strongly advise you to take a thorough and balanced approach to making the decision to undergo a chemical peeling procedure and be prepared for the need to carry out the procedure in a course with a stronger concentration of the agents used or, conversely, for an increased rehabilitation period after the chemical peeling procedure, as well as the maximum inform the specialist about any individual or previously encountered allergic reactions to certain cosmetics and medications, about the cosmetics used and the current state of the body.

During a chemical peel procedure, the following are often possible:

• increased skin sensitivity (due to thinning of the epidermis);
• skin redness;
• a feeling of dryness, tightness, tingling up to a slight burning sensation, peeling of the skin;
• rash (for example, with acne this is normal, their number gradually decreases and finally disappears).

Pre-peeling preparation

• Adapts the skin to the effects of acids, evens out the upper layer of the epidermis, which ensures better and more uniform penetration of the peeling.
• To prepare for 2 weeks before starting the peeling course, use cosmetics with a small percentage of acids - cleansers, serums, creams with an acid content of 6-12% and a fairly high pH.
• So, for AHA acids, the minimum effective indicators for a daily product are 5-8% at pH 3-4, and for BHA acids (salicylic) - 1-2% at pH 3-4.

Post-peeling care

• For 2 weeks after the chemical peel procedure, use the same daily products with a small percentage of acids as during the pre-peel preparation. Use soothing, healing, restorative, therapeutic post-peeling masks, serums and creams. This will help avoid complications, soothe the skin, speed up regeneration and saturate the skin with active ingredients as much as possible.
• Choose products from the list prescribed by your cosmetologist and strictly follow his recommendations.

We hope that now you understand why most cosmetology services , including peelings, are included in the list of works (services) that constitute medical activities and are subject to mandatory licensing (Resolution of the Government of the Russian Federation of April 16, 2012 N 291 On licensing of medical activities) . The Beauty and Health Center “Philosophy of Excellence” has the appropriate license and has the right to provide this type of service.

The presence of this license imposes certain obligations on the institution, including on staff in terms of its level of education.

Thus, the minimum requirements for a specialist performing chemical peeling, according to the order of the Ministry of Health and Social Development of the Russian Federation dated April 18, 2012 N 381n (On approval of the Procedure for providing medical care to the population in the field of cosmetology) and order dated October 13, 2022 N 804n (On approval nomenclature of medical services) is the presence of additional education - professional retraining in the specialty “Nursing in cosmetology” with secondary vocational education in one of the specialties: “General Medicine”, “Midwifery”, “Nursing”.

A cosmetology nurse must have:

• depilation techniques with wax, sugar, cosmetics;
• care techniques, which include: massage (face, body, anti-cellulite, medical), skin cleansing (chemical or mechanical abrasive peeling), wraps and masks; techniques used in cryotherapy (when the body is exposed to low temperatures in order to achieve a rejuvenating effect);
• injection techniques: mesotherapy (intradermal injection of nutritional cocktails of vitamins and biologically active substances), botulinum therapy, contour plastic surgery, PRP technologies; hardware procedures - laser and photoepilation, vacuum massage, etc.;
• first aid techniques in case of allergic reactions in a patient.

!!! Therefore, even if a specialist has a certificate of completion of any courses in peeling techniques, but does not have the appropriate education, such a specialist does not have the right to provide this type of cosmetic procedures, even if the institution is licensed to provide medical services in the field of cosmetology. Unfortunately, few people know about this nuance, which unscrupulous beauty salons and private masters take advantage of by providing their clients with such certificates, which in fact do not give either the right to provide such a service or confirm the required educational minimum, thereby putting their client’s health in danger.

At the Philosophy of Excellence Beauty and Health Center, all employees have the appropriate education - we strictly comply with all the requirements of the licensee and take care of the health and safety of our Guests. You can always view information about the education of our employees, as well as other information required to be published by a medical institution, on our website.

Dear girls, women! Be careful in choosing an institution and a specialist when deciding to undergo a chemical peeling procedure! Taking care of your health, Beauty and Health Center “Philosophy of Excellence”.

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