Retinoic ointment is a miracle cure. Fact or fiction?

This is interesting! Women living in harsh, cool or humid climates are less susceptible to wrinkles than their peers from dry areas.

What is it like to be forty years old? Obviously, every day of delay is reflected in the faces, and in the literal sense of the word. As a result, ladies who are “late for the departing train” are rushing to buy unreasonably expensive creams, tonics and other cosmetic products. But for some reason they forget that ordinary retinoic ointment for wrinkles is in no way inferior to advertised drugs with an anti-aging effect. This will be discussed in the material below.

Is it true that pharmaceutical ointments for wrinkles are more effective than creams?

Composition and release form

Retinoic ointment is a greasy, light-yellow product of uniform consistency, which contains Isotretinoin. It is this substance that determines the high biological activity of the drug. Isotretinoin belongs to the group of Retinoids and is a type of retinoic acid along with Tretinoin, which is more toxic and for this reason is rarely used.

Retinoids are substances close in structure and physiological action to Vitamin A - Retinol, and are chemically similar to it.

For clarity, the relationship between the chemical structure of vitamin A and its derivatives is shown below.

Isotretinoin is shown on the left and is completely cis-retinoic acid, that is, its chemical configuration in which the functional group is in the same plane as the double bond. Cis isomers are more reactive, i.e. have greater biological activity. In addition, it is safer than trans-retinoic acid - Tretinoin .

To date, among the six drugs registered in Russia, Isotretinoin Retinoic ointment is the only dosage form in the form of an ointment.

Therefore, if you come across a drug in the pharmacy in the form of an ointment or cream with a different name, where this active substance is indicated, then keep in mind that this is a counterfeit or fake.

The patent and rights to produce this ointment belong to the pharmaceutical industry.

Retinoic ointment is available in two concentrations:

0.5% - containing 0.05 g of Isotretinoin per 10 g of ointment and 1% containing 0.1 g, respectively.

The ointment also contains auxiliary components:

  • Dibunol (antioxidant, antioxidant);
  • Butyloxyanisole (antioxidant, preservative, acidity regulator);
  • Emulsion wax (emulsifier);
  • Vaseline oil (lipophilic base);
  • Glycerin (density regulator, solvent, has a moisturizing effect on the skin);
  • Ethyl alcohol (solvent, preservative);
  • Purified water.

How does Retinoic ointment work?

Compared to other Retinol derivatives, retinoic acids and Isotretinoin in particular have a shallower penetration depth, which means less absorption into the body, and therefore less likelihood of serious side effects when used exclusively externally.

Vitamin A is fat-soluble, like all its derivatives. They are always in alliance with carriers - fats and fat-like substances, which means, like all fats, they penetrate the skin well.

Side effects

Burns from retinoic ointment are a common side effect and consequence of retinization. Such burns usually go away on their own after short-term withdrawal of the drug. Repeated use should be resumed with a smaller amount of a lower concentration in order to allow the skin to get used to and adapt.

Retinization is the saturation of the skin with retinoid products, in other words, their “accumulation” in the skin as a result of regular use.

This concept has two consequences:

The first is stimulation of all processes of skin cell renewal;

The second is severe skin irritation, accompanied by burning, sometimes pain and even “corrosion” of the skin, which, however, is very rare when using ointment.

The latter property underlies the action of retinoic peels.

More serious side effects are associated with the effect on the fetus.

Isotretinoin, like other retinoids, can cause deformities in the fetus, i.e. is teratogenic. Even small concentrations of the drug can cause deformities, so it’s not worth the risk. Consequently, drug therapy with this substance is carried out exclusively in women who are not pregnant or planning a pregnancy, using at least two reliable methods of contraception simultaneously, both during treatment and for the next one to two months after.

No foreign doctor will prescribe this drug to you without setting the above condition. In addition, all women who use this drug, especially in the form of tablets, are entered into a special register and their health status is monitored.

But in Russia, many dermatologists neglect this rule, not to mention monitoring women’s health when using external medications, which are called almost a panacea for everything: from wrinkles to acne.

And that is not all. When treating acne in men with Isotretinoin tablets or long-term therapy and applying Retinoic ointment to large areas of the skin (larger than the palm area), the substance can penetrate into the seminal fluid, so partners are also strongly recommended to use double contraception.

Separately, I would like to say about cosmetic preparations containing retinol and its derivatives.

There are many cosmetic preparations that contain a fairly high content of retinoids, so you should always remember:

  • Cosmetics are subject to less stringent requirements than drugs;
  • For cosmetics, bioavailability and the percentage of the substance entering the systemic circulation are not taken into account;
  • There are also associated side effects that can have an irreversible effect, and especially no one will tell you about possible teratogenicity;
  • Few cosmetic preparations have detailed instructions indicating side effects and warnings, the maximum that can be written is “consult a cosmetologist, may cause an allergic reaction, in case of contact with eyes, rinse them with plenty of water”;
  • You cannot know for sure what side effects are fraught with certain cosmetic products, even your cosmetologist may not know, and manufacturers simply have not studied this aspect or are silent.

Review of 10 creams with retinoids: inexpensive cosmetics and premium products

When choosing creams with retinol or retinoids, you should first consider products from well-known manufacturers. Experts recommend purchasing the following products.

NominationPlaceNamePrice
Review of 10 creams with retinoids: inexpensive cosmetics and premium products1La Roche-Posay Redermic Retinol3 200 ₽
2Night anti-aging cream REVITALIFT from L'Oreal Paris750 ₽
3Indeed Labs Retinol Reface Retinol Skin Resurfacer1 630 ₽
4Liftactiv Advanced Filler, Vichy4 000 ₽
5NATURA SIBERICA DOCTOR TAIGA LIFT-ACTIVE290 ₽
6EVELINE COSMETICS anti-aging, density restoration225 ₽
7Tolk+ Retinol160 ₽
8SESDERMA RETISES 0.25% CREAM4 750 ₽
9Gigi: Retinol forte skin Lightening Cream5 750 ₽
10Cream “RADICAL NIGHT REPAIR”, ZO®SKIN HEALTH12 450 ₽

La Roche-Posay Redermic Retinol

Rating: 4.9

The cream is designed to eliminate wrinkles and provide a pronounced lifting effect. It fights hyperpigmentation and improves complexion. The cosmetic product contains pure retinol and sequential release retinol, so the product acts gradually. The cream has a cumulative effect, which allows you to maintain results for a long time even after stopping its use.

The cosmetics have a light and delicate texture. The product does not leave greasy marks or sticky film on the face. It is quickly and completely absorbed by skin cells and is suitable for all types of epidermis. Studies have shown that the cream is well tolerated and does not cause side effects. It can be used for a long period of time and can be combined with other cosmetic products for facial care.

Night anti-aging cream L'Oreal Paris REVITALIFT

Rating: 4.8

The regenerating cream is designed to provide care for the skin of the face, neck and décolleté at night. The cream contains pro-retinol A and fibroelastyl. Suitable for all skin types, but can only be used after 18 years of age.

The product fights wrinkles, restores the oval of the face, and tightens its contours. Long-term use of cosmetic products can eliminate razor bumps, known as “bulldog cheeks.” The effectiveness and safety of the product have been proven; the product is recommended for use by dermatologists and cosmetologists.

Indeed Labs Retinol Reface Retinol Skin Resurfacer

Rating: 4.8

Cream serum stimulates regenerative processes in the thickness of the skin. Under the influence of its components, wrinkles are smoothed out, the facial contour becomes clearer, and the epidermis itself becomes fresher. The skin acquires a natural blush and healthy glow.

The cream serum combats the oiliness of the epidermis, but does not cause it to become excessively dry. It softens the skin, smoothes out wrinkles, and has a lifting effect. All thanks to the balanced formula of “3-in-1” cosmetics. The product contains retinol, its peptides and microspheres. All substances are of plant origin, they are safe for skin health and are designed to protect it from the negative effects of ultraviolet radiation.

Vichy Liftactiv Advanced Filler

Rating: 4.8

Vitamin A filler that fills and smoothes facial wrinkles. The product contains pure retinol combined with hyaluronic acid. It not only evens out skin tone and rejuvenates, but also moisturizes it. Hyaluronic acid does not allow the skin to rapidly lose moisture, which is important for preventing dryness and premature aging.

Additional components of the cream are adenosine and the LD2412 molecule. They not only visually remove wrinkles, but actually eliminate them by affecting the production of collagen and elastin. Using a cosmetic product allows you to get rid of purse-string wrinkles and marionette lines around the lips.

NATURA SIBERICA DOCTOR TAIGA LIFT-ACTIVE

Rating: 4.7

Domestic organic cosmetics contain herbal ingredients obtained from Siberian raw materials. The cream contains retinol, as well as coenzyme Q10. The cosmetic product has anti-aging and firming properties, but its use must be combined with the use of moisturizers. The product itself, as studies have shown, does not provide adequate hydration and even dries out the skin a little.

EVELINE COSMETICS anti-aging, density restoration

Rating: 4.7

A budget cosmetic product with good quality, light texture and natural composition. Cream with retinol has rejuvenating and whitening properties, does not cause the skin to feel tight, nourishes and saturates it with valuable elements.

Cosmetics from a Polish manufacturer contain retinol, tocopherol, ascorbic acid, vitamin F. Its use stimulates the production of natural collagen and elastin, evens out facial tone, tightens the skin and removes wrinkles. An additional rejuvenating effect is provided by panthenol, which also protects the epidermis from the negative effects of external factors and, in particular, ultraviolet radiation.

Tolk+ Retinol

Rating: 4.7

Cheap retinol cream for all skin types. It is highly effective in combating wrinkles and age-related changes in skin cells. Protects the epidermis from ultraviolet radiation and does not clog pores.

In addition, cosmetics are used sparingly. One tube weighing 40 ml is enough for a 45-day course of using the product. Using the cream allows you to narrow pores, remove oily shine and reduce excessive production of subcutaneous fat. The light texture makes it easy to apply the cream to the face, after which it is quickly absorbed and does not leave a greasy residue. Does not form a sticky film and does not stain clothes. It is the best option among budget creams with retinol.

SESDERMA RETISES 0.25% CREAM

Rating: 4.7

The cream from the Spanish manufacturer contains retinol propionate, which has a milder effect on the skin than other vitamin A derivatives. The substance does not cause dryness or irritation of the epidermis. It has a delicate texture, spreads easily over the face and is quickly absorbed by dermal cells. Using the cream triggers the natural processes of collagen and elastin production.

Additional components of the cream are boswellic acids, antarticin and asuorbyl glucoside. They provide strengthening of the skin, reduction of pigmentation, elimination of inflammation and protection of the epidermis from the sun.

Gigi Retinol forte skin Lightening Cream

Rating: 4.7

Cosmetic product from a famous Israeli brand. Contains moisturizing and nutrients, as well as vitamins A, C and E, arbutin, glycolic and azelaic acids. Maintains skin tone, prevents the formation of hyperpigmentation, and creates a barrier that does not allow ultraviolet radiation to penetrate into the thickness of the dermis.

The product is suitable for all skin types. It inhibits the production of melanin and also has whitening properties. Moisturizing occurs at the cellular level, which ensures the prevention of premature aging of the epidermis, wilting and loss of turgor.

Cream ZO SKIN HEALTH “RADICAL NIGHT REPAIR”

Rating: 4.7

The product is intended for night skin care. With its help you can achieve an anti-aging and lifting effect, whiten your face and smooth out wrinkles. The cream contains pure retinol, the concentration of which is 1.0%.

Additional components included in the cosmetic product are substances of plant origin - extract from the fruits of Sichuan pepper, sunflower seed oil and rosemary extract. The product formula also contains antioxidants in the form of vitamins C and E. The cream is intended to correct the first signs of aging.

When choosing a cream with retinol or its derivatives, you need to be guided not only by price variations. These are cosmetics that you should not skimp on so as not to harm the health of your skin. And if you have any doubts about which product to give preference to, it is better to seek advice from a specialist - a cosmetologist or dermatologist.

Contraindications

Retinoic ointment has clear contraindications for use, including:

  • Pregnancy, including planned;
  • It is also contraindicated in nursing women due to the possibility of passage into breast milk;
  • Hypersensitivity and skin damage, the cause of which is not clear;
  • Too thin and dry facial skin;
  • Vitamin A hypervitaminosis;
  • Fatty liver and lipid metabolism disorders;
  • Treatment with tetracycline antibiotics;
  • Treatment with other retinoids.

Reviews

You can find different reviews of Retinoic ointment online. Young people note the effect declared by the manufacturer - acne disappears. Older women confirm that the product helps smooth out shallow wrinkles. Users express their opinion about unpleasant sensations at the beginning of use - tightness and burning.

Reviews from cosmetologists about Retinoic ointment for wrinkles indicate that if you use the product correctly, discomfort will be minimized. The composition perfectly smoothes out unevenness, eliminates acne, and improves skin structure.

Indications for use

According to the official instructions for the use of Retinoic ointment, there are only a few indications for its use:

  • Acne;
  • Seborrheic dermatitis;
  • Rosacea;
  • Perioral dermatitis (“jams”, cracks in the corners of the lips).

However, given the positive effects of this ointment, there are several non-trivial indications for which it can be used, among them:

  • Treatment of fresh scars, scars and stretch marks;
  • Treatment of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, post-acne (after acne and wounds);
  • Reduction of facial and age wrinkles that appear due to decreased skin turgor;
  • Treatment of ingrown hairs after depilation.

Rules of application

Although this drug is intended for the skin regardless of location, Retinoic ointment is still more often used specifically for the facial skin.

Let's consider the methods and features of its use in each specific case, but before that it is worth learning a few general recommendations:

  1. Treatment with the drug should be started with a lower concentration, especially for those who use this drug for the first time;
  2. For people with very thin and sensitive skin, it is recommended to mix a small amount with Vaseline oil 1:1, gradually increasing the percentage of ointment, this way you will be able to avoid burns on the skin;
  3. Treatment should be continued for at least a month (as for most retinoids) provided there are no adverse reactions;
  4. When using Retinoic ointment under the eyes, do not apply it close to the eye, especially in high concentrations;
  5. When applying around the eyes, retreat 1-1.5 cm from the eye, apply in a thin layer and do not rub into the skin, but rather use the advice from step 2;
  6. Under no circumstances should this product be applied in the form of a mask in a thick layer over the entire face, this can lead to disastrous consequences;
  7. The ointment should be applied in a thin layer locally, only to the affected area, unless the doctor prescribes otherwise.

For acne and blackheads

As a remedy for acne, retinoic ointment is applied in a thin layer to the affected areas 2 times a day. It is necessary to apply the composition to cleansed, dry skin and do not cover it with creams or other products. During the treatment period, it is better for girls to avoid decorative cosmetics in the affected area. Yes, it is not easy, however, the result is worth it.

When to apply the product

Products with retinoids are best used at night after cleansing your face. For the first couple of weeks, apply it twice a week in the evenings. For the next two weeks, alternate two days of use with two days of rest. After four to six weeks, when the skin has become accustomed to the procedure, switch to a daily regimen. Be sure to use sunscreen throughout the day to reduce the risk of harmful UV rays.

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Analogs

This unique drug has many effects and indications, so for each of them we have indicated separate analogues.

For clarity, analogues of Retinoic ointment are divided into groups, which can be seen in the table.

Retasol

Isotretionin preparation in the form of a 2.5% solution for external use. Contains propylene glycol and ethyl alcohol as auxiliary components. The higher concentration is due to the liquid dosage form. The main indications are also:

  • Acne;
  • Seborrheic dermatitis;
  • Rosacea;
  • Perioral dermatitis.

Due to its higher concentration, Retasol is not recommended for use on thin and damaged skin, especially under the eyes. Also, the liquid form is less effective for use against wrinkles.

The solution must be stored in the refrigerator.

We see

It is an ointment containing Retinol - Vitamin A. The remaining components are almost the same as Retinoic ointment, only the antioxidant components differ. The compositions of the products can be compared in the table .

Retinoic ointmentOintment Videstim
DibunolButylated hydroxytoluene
ButyloxyanisoleButylated hydroxyanisole
Emulsion waxEmulsion wax
Vaseline oilVaseline oil
GlycerolGlycerol
EthanolEthanol
Purified waterPurified water

The manufacturer is also

The official instructions for Videstim ointment include a number of indications for which this product can be used, including:

  • Eczema;
  • Dermatitis, including atopic dermatitis in the absence of exacerbation (i.e. in remission);
  • Excessive pigmentation (cheilitis), including age-related;
  • Age-related skin changes (meaning wrinkles); diseases associated with impaired skin keratinization processes, such as hyperkeratosis;
  • To activate skin restoration processes after glucocorticosteroid therapy.
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