Facial peeling with fruit acids: a cosmetologist spoke about the features of the procedure and its effects

Useful trace elements, minerals, vitamins, pectins and polyphenols make the apple one of the most valuable ingredients used in home cosmetology. And apple cider vinegar, which is part of the fruit, allows you to create effective cleansing products, one of which is apple peeling . The procedure can be carried out not only in the salon, but also at home. The astringent, drying and soothing effect of the compositions accelerates cellular regeneration and exfoliation of the stratum corneum of the epidermis.

What is fruit peeling

It is not by chance that chemical peeling with acids is called fruit peeling. To carry it out, compositions containing organic AHA acids are used. These substances are obtained from plant materials - grapes, apples, citrus fruits, tomatoes and even sugar cane.

The concentration of active substances in cosmetic products is many times higher than in the fruits themselves. Therefore, in terms of effectiveness, homemade masks with pieces of lemon or strawberries are seriously inferior to professional products. Cosmetologists use such peelings for chemical and superficial cleansing of the skin, affecting only its upper layers.

“When performing fruit peeling, we create a controlled burn,” comments cosmetologist Olga Degtyareva. “In response to it, the skin launches restoration processes.”​​​​​​

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How does it work

In fact, the active substances for the procedure are alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), when applied abundantly to the epidermis, microdamages appear. They are not harmful to the body, except for slight redness or peeling afterwards. But deliberately burning tissue during chemical peeling makes sense - restorative mechanisms are activated, tissues are renewed naturally. The framework fibers and glycosaminoglycans of the dermis are re-formed, that is, changes occur deep inside, and the result is reflected outside.

Effects of AHA Fruit Peel

During recovery, the state of the epidermis changes. Chemical acids dissolve dead cells that accumulate on the surface of the epidermis, so that after the first procedure the face becomes fresher and brighter. And after the course, visible changes are noted:

• smoothing out small wrinkles;
• pronounced hydration;
• increased elasticity;
• reduction in fat content;
• reducing the number of blackheads;
• evens out complexion and eliminates hyperpigmentation.

“The main effect of peeling with fruit acids is the reduction of hyperpigmentation,” continues cosmetologist Olga Degtyareva. — If you have age spots, you can take a course of peelings to even out your complexion. It is impossible to predict the number of procedures in advance, since exfoliation occurs differently in each patient and the depth of the pigment is different. But the right concentration of the substance and a sufficient duration of the course will help get rid of this problem.”

Who is apple peeling suitable for?

If we talk about who is suitable for apple peeling, we can say with confidence that this type of cleansing can be used to care for any type of skin. Despite the undeniable aggressiveness of apple cider vinegar and fruit acids in general, the correctly selected concentration of the composition, softening additional ingredients and compliance with certain rules during the procedure will cleanse, refresh and rejuvenate even the most sensitive skin.

The main indications for apple peeling are:

• excessive and uneven pigmentation of the epidermis;
• aging of cells as a result of metabolic disorders, the influence of photo particles;
• vascular skin diseases, including rosacea and telangiectasia;
• general decrease in epidermal tone;
• slowing down the process of exfoliation of the keratinized layer of cells, leading to the formation of seals on the surface of the face;
• mild acne and comedones, often as a result of improper facial care and ineffectiveness of regular cleansing.

As a result of the effect of malic acid on cells, the acid-base balance is regulated. Apple peeling disinfects the surface of the face, inhibits the vital activity of pathogenic microorganisms, against the background of which irritation and inflammation disappear. The protective functions of the epidermis are normalized, pores are cleaned, acne and sebaceous plugs disappear.

The main advantages of peeling based on apple cider vinegar is the ability to use the compositions all year round. It is suitable for facial care at any age and is equally effective for problematic or sensitive skin.

The use of apple products does not cause mechanical damage to epidermal cells, because their effect is due to chemical reactions. The connections between the cells of the stratum corneum of the skin are destroyed, which leads to its easy detachment.

As a result of the session, the following positive changes can be observed:

• complexion evens out, redness goes away;
• pigment spots lighten;
• wrinkles are smoothed out, the skin becomes smooth and velvety;
• the elasticity and tone of the epidermis increases;
• the face looks cleaner and younger.

You need to understand that apple peeling is a superficial effect on the epidermis. It will not remove scars, pronounced wrinkles and deep skin folds. For dry and normal facial skin, one session per week is enough, for oily skin - two.

Before carrying out the procedure, it is necessary to perform appropriate preparation of the epidermis, this will increase its effectiveness and prevent the development of complications in the form of inflammation or blockage of pores. Preparation consists of removing makeup, cleansing the face with a gel or lotion according to your skin type, and steaming the stratum corneum with a damp hot towel.

Indications

According to Olga Degtyareva, chemical peeling with acids is a universal procedure that is suitable for any skin, young and old. And in each case it will help in solving current problems.

In adolescence, it will help get rid of seborrhea - increased oiliness, give the face a matte appearance, reduce rashes and smooth out the consequences of post-acne. During the procedure, the acid dissolves the contents of the pores - “dark spots” on the face, making the skin look well-groomed and less bothered by the appearance of imperfections.

In adulthood, the procedure improves the condition of the skin, promotes its renewal and helps get rid of small expression wrinkles. She cannot cope with large ones, but even after a single procedure there is a pronounced lifting effect.

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“Superficial chemical peeling can be considered as a procedure on the eve of a release,” Olga Degtyareva clarifies. — After exposure to acids, the skin instantly tightens, and the very next day the lifting effect is visible to the naked eye. Therefore, if you want to prepare for an event and look especially good, you can do a superficial fruit peel the day before and instantly transform your skin.”

Prices and brands of peelings

The cost of an apple peel will depend on where you will peel it - in a salon or at home. In the salon, you will pay on average from 2000 to 3500 rubles for one procedure. For home use, you can purchase apple peels from different companies; the cost of one jar or tube varies on average from 220 to 600 rubles. The effect of home peelings is much less than that of salon procedures, since they contain a minimal percentage of acid.

Manufacturers of apple peeling

Home series:

1. Apple peeling gel gommage - Apple juicy peeling gel, Mizon (Korea)

2. Massage cream (peeling roll) “Green Apple” - Appletox Smooth Massage Peeling Cream, Tony Moly (Korea)

3. Apple peeling gel - Vov-Apple AHA Peeling gel, VOV (Korea)

4. Peeling roller “Universal Apple” - Spa Technology TianDe, Great Wall Cosmetics Factory (China)

5. Peeling gel with green apple extract - Apple All in One Peeling Gel, Baviphat (Korea)

6. Peeling Green Apple for sensitive skin - Green Apple Peel - Sensitive, Juice Beauty (USA)

Salon peelings:

1. Radiant peeling – Illuminize Peel (Skinmedica, USA)

2. AHA Almond-Apple Peeling 25% – Almond/apple pell lotion, Eldan Cosmetics (Switzerland)

Tags: peeling

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Advantages and disadvantages

Fruit peeling only works on the surface of the skin, so it is relatively safe. However, its pros and cons largely depend on the professionalism of the cosmetologist.

“For each patient, the doctor selects the optimal concentration of fruit acid and pH level,” explains Olga Degtyareva. “The lower the pH level, the more active and deeper the active substance penetrates.”

In adolescence, deep penetration of fruit acids is not necessary, since skin problems are always on the surface. For teenage rashes and excessive oily skin, formulations with a high pH level are used. For mature skin, the acidity level of the composition should be higher and the pH lower, in this case it is possible to effectively smooth out wrinkles and accelerate tissue renewal.

At home, without the help of a specialist, it is impossible to select a balanced composition. A small concentration of acid present in products for home use will not give a “salon” effect. And too much can cause burns and serious damage to the skin.

“If you use an adequate concentration of acids, the benefits of the procedure will be at any age, ” comments Olga Degtyareva. “ But at home there is no need to take risks, since you can fail to concentrate and harm yourself.”

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Acids and their concentration

For comprehensive care, combinations of several acids are used, so the product covers several directions at the same time. It is taken into account that epidermal cells get used to some acids in everyday life: glycolic, lactic. To them is added one that will make a breakthrough, activate and accelerate metabolic processes.

Lemon

It is an antibacterial agent, destroys harmful microorganisms on the surface of the skin, and moderately whitens it. Used diluted. In addition to lemon and lime, it is found in other citrus fruits, kiwi.

Glycolic

The substance HOOC-CH₂-OH is responsible for pigmentation, returning an even tone and correct structure. The pores narrow, pigment spots gradually disappear. Its sources are sugar cane and beets, unripe grapes.

Apple

In biology - hydroxysuccinic acid. Stimulates metabolic processes, causes cells to renew themselves at a rapid pace. In addition to apples, it is produced from rowan, barberry, and raspberries. Unripe fruits and berries are especially rich in the component.

Dairy

The second name is lactate. It is a fermentation product, therefore it is found in fermented milk drinks (kefir, yogurt), and blueberries. The size of the molecule allows it to easily pass through cell membranes, and deep hydration occurs. As a result, the surface softens and becomes more delicate.

Wine

It is a dibasic hydroxy acid, the main enemy of keratinized cells, exfoliates, removes old particles of the integument. Whitens, moisturizes. Based on the name, it is found in wine and grapes. It is also extracted from oranges and the sour juices of other fruits.

A standard set of components will improve the health of the epidermis, the proportions vary depending on the goal.

Features of the procedure

Chemical peeling with acids does not require prior preparation. The procedure takes 30-40 minutes and is carried out according to the following protocol:

• cleansing the face and neck;
• application of the active substance;
• keeping the composition for 2-10 minutes;
• applying a neutralizer that stops the peeling;
• removal of composition;
• applying post-peeling cream.

The advantage of the procedure is its comfort. A slight tingling sensation may be felt, which goes away after applying the neutralizer. In case of increased sensitivity, the operating time of the composition is reduced. After the procedure, slight redness is possible, which quickly disappears.

There are practically no contraindications to the procedure.

“The main thing is that there are no inflammations or herpes on the skin,” Olga Degtyareva clarifies. — We do not perform the procedure if the patient has signs of a cold or has an elevated body temperature. And it is very important that your skin does not tan.”

Despite the fact that facial peeling with fruit acids is carried out to reduce hyperpigmentation, it cannot be done on tanned skin. This can lead to even more pigmentation and the appearance of numerous dark spots on the face. If the skin is tanned, it needs to be given time to recover. Therefore, cosmetologists recommend starting the fight against excessive tanning not at the end of summer, but a couple of months after the end of the active sun season.

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Contraindications

Despite a number of advantages and ease of implementation, fruit facial peeling has contraindications: this is what will force you to postpone or cancel the procedure.

1. Allergy to the chemical composition of the product: before the session, it is recommended to do a test on the inside of the arm and look at the reaction;
2. With skin prone to scarring or hypersensitivity, it is better to avoid visiting a beauty clinic;
3. During lactation, it is better to postpone the visit; stress or strong odors can also harm a pregnant woman;
4. Inflammatory processes, rashes, ulcers, acne, boils - another taboo.
5. In case of relapse of chronic diseases such as herpes and their exacerbation, it is advisable to wait until complete recovery;
6. People with blood diseases (hemophilia) and autoimmune diseases are strictly prohibited from undergoing the procedure.
7. Relative contraindications include mechanical damage to the skin, abrasions, and scratches. During colds, acute respiratory viral infections or due to viral infections, the session is postponed;
8. During menstruation, hormonal imbalances, a feeling of general malaise, weakness - it is better not to take risks, otherwise the body's reaction to discomfort will be unpredictable.

If you follow the rules and adhere to the recommendations, multi-fruit cleansing will bring joy and the desired effect.

Note! If the superficial method is suitable for beginners to carry out at home, then for more serious manipulations you should contact a professional. A good specialist will determine your skin type, its condition, and identify the main problems. The result will depend on the correct direction and concentration of the components.

Natural analogues

To save money or avoid strong effects, recipes made from natural products are suitable for beginners.

Strawberry mask

Several berries are kneaded, mixed with liquid honey, and applied for 10-15 minutes. Suitable for mature skin. In addition to the face, it is used in the neck and décolleté area.

Orange and coffee

Dry ground coffee beans are combined with half the orange pulp. Instead of water, it is better to wash off the mixture with a tonic or herbal decoction. Antioxidants in coffee make the method a medium peel.

Honey and pineapple

The sweet mask does not contain aggressive components; the pineapple is finely chopped and added to slightly warmed honey. Bran or fiber is added to thicken the mixture.

You can experiment with kefir, grapes, lemon juice. Reviews from satisfied women will tell you which combination will be effective for each skin type.

How often to do

The exact number of repetitions will be determined by the cosmetologist; you can also understand the further direction based on the results and reactions. After each session, the behavior of the epidermis is monitored after two weeks.

Typically the course consists of 7-14 repetitions with an interval of 1-2 weeks.

For the purpose of prevention, the quantity is reduced. It is important that if under the age of 25 1-2 manipulations per month are enough, then after 45 fruit cleansing will only be a preparatory stage before a deep impact.

Popular means

A consultation with a cosmetologist or cosmetics seller will allow you to choose medications for independent use. Information about each of them will indicate the differences and determine the one you need.

• Janssen Inspira MFA from the German brand Janssen Cosmeceutical comes in classic white packaging. The manufacturer additionally offers a care kit. The biocomplex of fruit acids is a good basis for moisturizing and working with relief;
• Skinlite (South Korea) is often used at home: the delicate effect prevents irritation, while softening the epidermis, the face becomes softer and fresher;
• “Bark” cream mask contains AHA acids, allantoin, and D-panthenol. Oily shine is eliminated and pores are narrowed. Sold in a pharmacy. A standard 100 ml package lasts for about a year. Attention, the product cannot be used during pregnancy; those with sensitive skin should apply the mask carefully;
• Meishoku Detclear bright & peel aha & bha fruits uses a Japanese formula to combat dry skin without the risk of burning.

Mechanical cleaning

Indications for it are severe sebaceous glands, an increased number of comedones or acne, and a tendency to frequent inflammation. It is done manually, without machines. First, the face is steamed using hot compresses or special masks. Then the cosmetologist treats the skin with antiseptics and squeezes out the contents of the pores one by one using special metal spoons. This is the method recommended for people with oily and problematic skin. After cleansing, the face is disinfected with an anti-inflammatory composition. The whole process takes from one to one and a half hours. After the procedure, it is recommended not to use decorative cosmetics and not sunbathe for 4-5 days.

How is acid peeling done and how long does it take for the skin to heal?

Acid treatments are carried out either using one acid in the right concentration, or by mixing different types of acids. Acid peeling should be performed by an experienced cosmetologist, as the type and concentration of acid should be selected individually for the patient's skin.

Two weeks before the procedure, it is recommended to use a cream with a hydroxy acid, such as glycolic. This cream should also be used after the procedure.

Before the procedure, the cosmetologist protects areas of the facial skin that should not come into contact with acid, that is, around the eyes, lips and wings of the nose. Then the drug is applied to the skin with a brush and left for a time calculated by the doctor. The individual skin reaction is preliminarily checked.

The next stage is to neutralize the acid with a special preparation and leave it on the skin for several minutes. After this time, wash your face with warm water. Next, the cosmetologist applies a nourishing mask for 30

Acid treatments require the use of high UV filter creams and a protective cream for sensitive skin for at least 3-4 weeks.

The acid treatment should be repeated after approximately 14 days.

Preparing for peeling

Preparation for peeling first of all consists in avoiding prolonged exposure to the sun and visiting a solarium for 2 weeks before the procedure.

If possible, pre-peel preparation can be carried out within 2 weeks before peeling. It consists of using a wash gel, lotion or cream with acids in home care, which can be purchased from a cosmetologist.

Pre-peeling preparation smoothes the stratum corneum, prepares the skin for the procedure and improves the peeling effect. However, such preparation can be replaced by 1-2 peeling procedures with a low concentration of mandelic or glycolic acid.

Recovery period

After peeling, you must use sunscreen with SPF 30, even if the weather is cloudy outside, and also do not plan trips to the sea or visiting a solarium for at least the next 2-3 weeks.