AHA and BHA acids have a complex regenerating, anti-inflammatory, comedolytic and pigment-constricting effect. They regulate the functioning of the sebaceous glands, even out the tone and texture of the face. Peeling for problem skin plays an important role in complex acne therapy. The principle of peeling is simple: the drug dissolves horny scales, removes dead cells, and the regeneration process in the dermis is activated. Cells divide at an accelerated rate, the skin is restored with new, young cells. As a result, the skin looks smoother, younger, brighter, healthier.
Characteristics of oily and problem skin
Those with oily skin are more likely than others to face the problem of acne and acne. Excess sebum in the pores is a favorable environment for Propionibacterium acnes bacteria. As they multiply, they provoke an inflammatory process, and acne forms.
Acne dermatosis is a complex polymorphic, multifactorial disease of the sebaceous glands. Today, only the hormonal theory of acne development has been proven.
Mechanism of acne formation:
- Receptors in the dermis react to excess testosterone synthesis and encourage the sebaceous glands to produce sebum.
- If the keratinization process proceeds normally, then excess sebum simply comes out to the surface of the epidermis.
- If the stratum corneum is not regularly exfoliated, then the remaining fat gets stuck in the pores, mixing with dying corneocytes, forming sebaceous plugs or comedones.
- The blocked ducts of the sebaceous glands colonize bacteria, causing inflammation and the formation of a purulent element.
The main cause of acne is endocrine pathology - hyperandrogyny. But modern medical science does not operate with effective methods for correcting hormonal imbalance (only oral contraceptives and diet). Therefore, the most expressive effect is provided by external treatment aimed at speeding up exfoliation.
Peels prevent clogging of pores, free the ducts of the sebaceous glands from excess corneocytes and dissolve existing comedones. Acids also provide an antibacterial and disinfecting effect, even out skin tone and texture by removing a layer of old cells.
Which peels are suitable for acne skin?
If there are inflammatory elements on the skin and the integrity of the epithelium is compromised, then phenol, pure milk and glycolic peels are contraindicated. Other types of procedures can be performed with caution.
Glycolic
Glycolic acid is used carefully to treat acne. It has a small molecular weight, so it penetrates into the deep layers of the dermis.
In this case, not only dead cells of the stratum corneum are destroyed, but also healthy epidermis. In damaged areas, the risk of inflammation increases.
Therefore, acne often worsens after glycolic acid.
Important! To prevent this, it is recommended to use glycolic acid only in combination with other AHAs or use antibiotic creams in post-peel care.
Price: 600–2000 rubles per procedure.
Almond
Often used for problem skin, as mandelic acid has a pronounced anti-inflammatory and disinfectant effect. It is similar in action to the antibiotic Erythromycin, but does not cause resistance in bacteria and acts against all microorganisms (both viruses and fungi too).
Mandelic acid can be applied even to active inflammations.
Price: 2000–5000 rubles per procedure.
Salicylic
Salicylic acid (BHA) is a strong keratolytic; it penetrates pores better than others and dissolves sebaceous plugs. To improve product penetration and reduce discomfort during the procedure, BHA is used in combination with other acids.
Price: 1500–4000 rubles per procedure.
Salicylic acid is a common ingredient in cosmetics for skin with acne and enlarged pores. Manufacturers actively include it in skin care and even decorative cosmetic products. A toner with BHA has a pigment-constricting effect, disinfects the skin and evens out the Ph balance after washing.
Foundation with Salicylic acid also helps to isolate inflammatory elements and dry them out. Popular tones with salicylic acid: Dermablend 3D SPF 25 from Vichy, Anti-Blemish Solutions Makeup from Clinique.
Jessner Peel
A combination drug is used (salicylic acid + lactic acid + resorcinol). This peeling can also be performed for active inflammation. It dries out pimples well, dissolves comedones and exfoliates dead cells.
Jessner's peel can be superficial or medium. The depth of impact depends on the number of layers.
The cosmetologist applies the mixture of acids, and the client washes it off independently after 8–15 hours.
Price: 3500–8000 rub . for the procedure.
"Yellow" peeling
The procedure is carried out using retinoic acid (tretinoin). This is the active form of vitamin A. The procedure is the same as for Jessner.
“Yellow” peeling gives a pronounced result, smoothes the relief, speeds up healing, prevents the appearance of new comedones, narrows pores, and helps even with deep cystic acne.
Attention! “Yellow” peeling can cause aggravation after the procedure, so the cosmetologist prescribes maintenance therapy with tretinoin or antibiotics.
Price: 6500–15000 rub. for the procedure.
Tretinoin in dermatology is the “gold standard” for the treatment of acne. It can be used not in peeling courses, but in daily care. Preparations with tretinoin:
- Retin A (original drug, everything else is generic);
- Renova;
- Acnelyse;
- Retino-A;
- Stieva-A;
- Airol;
- Locacid.
Tretinoin is not certified in the Russian Federation, therefore, only drugs with adapalene (a derivative of retinoic acid) can be purchased in retail pharmacy chains: Differin, Bezugray, Adolen, Effezel.
TCA peeling
Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) is used primarily locally. It is contraindicated to apply to active inflammations. This drug is chosen for severe textural problems, post-acne, and scars. TCA peeling is classified as medium peeling. The rehabilitation period is 1–2 weeks.
Price: 3000–15000 rubles per procedure
Rejuvenating Purple Berry Patting Splash Mask, Blithe
Price: 2,800 rubles
An unusual beauty product for renewing and rejuvenating facial skin. The concentrated composition is diluted in a small amount of clean water, which is used for washing. This Korean product, the so-called splash mask, is an improved version of “rice water”, which was traditionally used by Korean beauties for daily cleansing of the skin. It contains lactic acid and a complex of wild berry extracts for deep cleansing and stimulation of epidermal renewal on the face. 15 seconds are enough for optimal interaction, so the solution works great during simple washing.
Pros:
- simultaneous cleansing, toning and tightening effect;
- convenient use;
- the product is enough for 3-4 months of use;
- delicious berry aroma;
- noticeable narrowing of pores;
- the skin becomes soft and velvety;
- pronounced nutrition and hydration.
Minuses:
- unusual use.
For what problems should peeling be used?
Problematic skin can be treated by adjusting your daily care routine to include products with acids or pharmaceutical preparations with tretinoin/adapalene. Peels are used to speed up the results.
But there are problems that can only be solved with the help of peelings:
- blue spots after acne;
- scars, scars after large papules;
- deep, painful cysts, conglobate acne, boils.
Important! Acids affect different stages of acne formation. They accelerate skin renewal and prevent the formation of comedones, dissolve sebaceous plugs and suppress the proliferation of pathogenic microorganisms.
What effect can be achieved after the procedure?
On oily skin, acne often recurs. It is impossible to completely get rid of the problem without adjusting your lifestyle, diet and skin care. With the help of peelings you can achieve quick results. And to consolidate success, you need to include products with acids in your home care.
Salicylic, TCA, “yellow” and Jessner peels have a pronounced effect of drying out inflammation, reducing sebum production, and narrowing pores. They are preferable for oily skin.
After rehabilitation, the skin looks matte, smooth, small wrinkles and traces of healed inflammation are smoothed out.
For dry skin with inflammation, glycolic, almond, milk, and pyruvic are more suitable. They speed up renewal and healing, even out the tone. Also, acids free the ducts of the sebaceous glands, sebum freely comes out and performs its direct and natural function - moisturizes the epidermis.
SA Smoothing Cleanser, CeraVe
Price: 650 rubles
A gentle cleansing and smoothing gel cleanser. Recommended for daily use. The special formula is designed for dry and rough skin. It does an excellent job of eliminating unevenness on the face and effectively removes dirt and greasy plugs. Salicylic acid gently exfoliates the epidermis, while ceramides maintain a protective barrier, and urea and hyaluronic acid are responsible for maintaining optimal moisture.
Pros:
- The product foams well and is easy to use;
- good dispenser, economical consumption;
- gentle cleansing without the “creaking” effect;
- an excellent combination of moisturizing and removing dead cells components;
- removes traces of makeup;
- brightens and evens out skin tone;
- “removes” pigment spots;
- washes off easily, leaving a feeling of freshness and tenderness on the face;
- has no smell;
- moisturizes and does not dry out the skin.
Minuses:
- No.
Peeling at home
Problem skin does not always react unambiguously to acids. Even some novice cosmetologists are wary of clients with rashes due to the unpredictability of the result.
It is possible to exfoliate acne at home, but you must observe some nuances:
- buy a certified product from a reputable manufacturer and strictly follow the protocol for application, exposure, and neutralization;
- do skin tests for intolerance to the active substance;
- First, carry out the procedure on a small area (for example, only the forehead);
- You can consult a specialist and conduct the first session in the salon, and complete the course at home.
There are many products for home exfoliation on the market - almost every reputable beauty brand produces a line with acids.
Products for home use are sold in cosmetology stores. The advantages of such products: reasonable price, convenient format, clear protocols for use. Plus, each company immediately offers neutralizers, SPF creams, skin preparation and post-peeling care products for the product.
BHA Blackhead Power Liquid, COSRX
Price: 1,700 rubles
A lightweight version of facial peeling in the form of an essence. According to the manufacturer, the cleansing liquid fights dirty, clogged pores by opening and removing their contents, which form blackheads. The effective combination of salicylic acid and white willow extract does not aggressively remove dead cells, thereby stimulating the process of renewal of the top layer of skin on the face. Hyaluronic acid retains moisture, and BHA acids have powerful fat-soluble properties, so that shine disappears for a long time.
Pros:
- convenient use with an economical dispenser;
- pleasant slightly oily consistency;
- suitable for any skin, does not cause irritation;
- moisturizes well, there is no feeling of tightness;
- no flavorings.
Minuses:
- does not prevent the appearance of acne;
- short term result.
Top home remedies for peeling
Here are the most effective drugs for problem skin, which can be purchased for less than 1,500 rubles:
- Gel with chitosan, based on glycolic acid 10% from MEDICAL COLLAGENE 3D (Russia). Price 700 rub./30 ml.
- Peeling with mandelic acid 5% from ALPIKA (Russia). Price 1500 rub./30 ml.
- AXA 8% / Homework from PREMIUM (Russia). Acids in the composition: glycolic, malic, citric, lactic. Price 900 rub./100 ml.
- Raspberry peeling for oily skin from New Line. Acids in the composition: glycolic (20%), lactic (5%), salicylic. Price 800 rub. for 100 ml.
- Salicylic, retinol, milk, Jessner peels from Home-Peel (Ukraine). Average price - 1500 rubles. for 10 ml.
Also, many products with acids are produced by Korean brands. Korea in the beauty world is perceived as “New France”. Today, almost all innovations come to the market from the South Caucasus.
Acid pads are packages of cotton pads soaked in an acid-containing product. The application procedure is the same as with regular peeling, but the release form is convenient and hygienic. They are produced by the following brands: Missha, Scinic, A'PIEU, Cosrx.
A rolling mask is an excellent alternative to scrubs, which are contraindicated for rashes, as they injure it with abrasive particles and spread the infection to unaffected areas. The roll should be applied in a thin layer to a clean face, wait half a minute and begin to “roll” the mask over the skin. The mask capsules are removed along with dead skin particles. You can use a rolling pad to remove peeling after regular peeling. But this is an optional remedy; it will not help get rid of acne. Rolling masks are produced by the following brands: Secret Key, Ekel, Mizon, Shelim, Tony Moly.
Idealia, Vichy
Price: 2,350 rubles
A gentle facial peeling that works at night. It is enough to apply a small product in the evening before bed to get renewed and rested skin in the morning. During the night, the product activates the processes of liberation from dead epidermis, free radicals are cleansed, cell restoration and renewal occurs. The formula contains blueberry extract, which slows down the aging process, glycolic acid to remove dead cells, thermal water of volcanic origin to fill the dermis with moisture and black tea extract to improve the quality characteristics of facial skin.
Pros:
- healthy glowing complexion;
- enhanced cell renewal process;
- lightening pigment spots;
- gradual reduction of acne marks;
- reduction of unevenness, active smoothing of facial skin;
- suitable for all skin types, including sensitive;
- pleasant fruity aroma;
- without harmful parabens.
Minuses:
- it costs expensive.
Skin care rules after exfoliation
As practice shows, 85% of unpleasant consequences after peeling on problem skin occur due to improper rehabilitation care.
For problem skin, it is always necessary to select creams and serums marked non-comedogenic (do not clog pores). But not all manufacturers care about labeling their products.
Important! Comedogenic components are contraindicated for women with acne, as they can aggravate the situation. Undesirable ingredients: talc, lanolin, alcohol denatured alcohol, oils (castor, cocoa, coconut, wheat germ, peanut, sunflower, soybean), butyl stearate, caprylic acid.
The skin, cleansed, renewed, thinned after peeling, absorbs all care products well. It is important to double-check all household cosmetics to avoid causing acne relapse.
The peeling product itself may contain risky ingredients. The exposure time of the product on the skin is too short for the pores to become clogged.
After glycolic and “yellow” peeling, cosmetologists can prescribe a cream with antibiotics (erythromycin, synthomycin, clindamycin) for an anti-inflammatory effect.
To speed up skin renewal, it is advisable to use ointments or mousses with panthenol, hyaluronic serums, and nourishing creams with safe oils.
You need to choose sun protection products especially carefully, preferably with physical or mineral SPF filters (zinc oxide, titanium dioxide). UV protection is a mandatory step in skin care after peeling.
Spray-On Exfoliant Gesichtspeeling Evening Detox, This Works
Price: 2,800 rubles
Evening facial peeling spray with a detoxing and exfoliating effect, intended for daily use. The formula with witch hazel and salicylic acid works as an antioxidant, removing not only impurities, but also the effects of stress accumulated throughout the day. The product straightens the skin, eliminates rashes, unclogs pores, and restores a healthy complexion.
Pros:
- in the morning the skin looks rested and radiant;
- there is no trace of dirt or fatigue;
- has an anti-inflammatory effect;
- reduces wrinkles and pigmentation;
- removes acne;
- exfoliates and relieves irritation;
- convenient use.
Minuses:
- Dries the skin a little.
The product can be sprayed directly onto the skin or sprayed first onto a cotton pad and then wiped over the face. If you need to go out into the sun after using the spray, your skin must be treated with sunscreen.
Precautionary measures
Fruit peels are not recommended for active inflammation. If you have fresh acne, it is better to prefer salicylic, retinoic or Jessner.
All peels are contraindicated during pregnancy and breastfeeding, or during the acute stage of herpes. If you have kidney or liver failure, diabetes, or problems with the thyroid gland, you should consult a specialized doctor before the procedure.
After the procedure, be sure to follow the rules of hygiene: wash makeup brushes, use disposable towels, wipe your mobile phone with alcohol, change your pillowcase to prevent infection on the renewed skin.
Contraindications
Peeling is a direct intervention in the normal rhythm of the human body. For this reason, there are a number of contraindications for which the use of this technique is not recommended. It seems that only the skin of the face is manipulated. In fact, the entire body is involved in the process.
Let's present the main contraindications for any type of peeling in the form of a list:
- pregnancy (both actual and planned);
- breast-feeding;
- exacerbation of herpes;
- ARVI, influenza or other viral infection;
- increased body temperature;
- the presence of burns, abrasions, ulcers and other defects on the skin of the face;
- intense solar activity outside.
Accordingly, if one of the contraindications is discovered before the hike, peeling will have to be postponed. With most points everything is quite obvious. Let's look at some in more detail.
In fact, there is still controversy regarding pregnancy peeling. Some believe that the chemical method will not do any harm. Another part prefers to adhere to the opinion that acids are able to penetrate through the mother’s bloodstream straight to the child. In general, it is better not to take risks and refuse this procedure. With breastfeeding, exactly the same story arises, only in this case the fact of the negative impact is confirmed. In any case, the dermis absorbs acids and other components; they easily pass into milk or are excreted through sweat on the chest.
An increase in temperature is evidence of an infection or other disease. During this period, it is better to avoid facial peeling. It is necessary to take care of the health of the body, and not about external beauty. She'll wait.
The remaining contraindications are more individual in nature. Before doing this, it is best to consult a dermatologist. Only a specialist can choose the best option.
Alternatives to contraindicated peels
If acid peels are directly contraindicated, acne can be treated with enzyme peels - with papain, bromelain, quinoa extract. These are gentle procedures that do not provoke photosensitivity.
Medical Collagene has a good selection of enzyme gels (up to 800 rubles).
Another alternative option for exfoliation and acne treatment is azelaic acid. It is not included in peels, but is considered a relatively safe remedy for problem skin. Preparations with azelaine: Skinoren, Azogel, Azik-derm.
Question to the expert
Natalya Anatolyevna, you have been a recognized expert for many years in the field of chemical peels. How has the concept of chemical peels changed recently and what place do they occupy in modern aesthetic medicine at the moment?
Peeling without destroying the basement membrane (can be of different composition - chemical, enzymatic, retinoic; can be presented in different forms - lotion, gel, cream, mask, etc.) allows you to quickly and without consequences bring the skin into a presentable appearance, very gently and safely stimulate its renewal, is a relatively inexpensive procedure of choice for the vast majority of patients and should occupy a strong position in aesthetic medicine. More traumatic types of peeling are also effective, but should be used less frequently and with more strictly verified indications. Over the past few years, I have only strengthened in this position, but the general situation demonstrates that nowadays, even during the initial visit to a cosmetologist, even patients who have no previous experience of non-traumatic care procedures are increasingly offered injection and hardware methods of influence. And patients, motivated by the media and the fear of not being like everyone else, of being irrevocably late in the fight against aging, sincerely believe in the correctness of this approach. At the same time, a paradoxical picture is often observed - many invasive expensive procedures have been performed, but the condition of the skin itself leaves much to be desired. And I just want to do a light, very superficial peel or mask and wipe the skin with lotion.
Patient reviews
The forums are full of positive reviews about peelings from owners of problem skin. This is truly one of the few effective acne treatments.
Girls who did not carefully select the drug and type of peeling complained about the lack of the desired effect.
Girls who were not warned about post-procedure care tactics speak negatively about the procedure.
Jeju Volcanic Pore Scrub Foam, Innisfree
Price: from 790 rubles
This scrub can be used instead of foam for washing. The delicate creamy structure includes particles of volcanic ash. This is a storehouse of useful substances for the skin, which not only maximally expands and cleanses pores, but also improves metabolic processes at the cellular level, absorbs toxic and harmful substances and has a disinfecting effect. Despite its gentle exfoliating effect, this facial peel is not recommended for use more than twice a week.
Pros:
- pleasant thick structure;
- foams well;
- gets rid of blackheads and removes sebaceous plugs;
- smells good;
- natural composition including healing extracts of camellia, orchid and prickly pear;
- is used sparingly;
- does not irritate the skin.
Minuses:
- Not recommended for use by girls with dry skin.
