Retinol, retinoids. Cosmetic care for correcting age-related skin changes

11.12.2020

Retinol is a form of vitamin A, but this is what people call vitamin A in principle. For convenience, we will do this too. Retinol is a real star in cosmetology. Many people have heard that it is effective for almost all skin problems, but it must be used carefully. Let's find out all the details: why you need retinol for the face.

If we talk about retinol as a form of vitamin A, then this is the most easily absorbed form for skin cells. It is pure retinoic acid. There are other forms used in facial cosmetology: retinol palmitate, retinol acetate. They must first be transformed in the body, and only then act on cells.

Note: natural forms of vitamin A are used in cosmetology, and synthetic forms are used in pharmacology.

Nosological classification (ICD-10)

• A09 Diarrhea and gastroenteritis of presumably infectious origin (dysentery, bacterial diarrhea)
• A15-A19 Tuberculosis
• B05 Measles
• E50 Vitamin A deficiency
• E50.0 Vitamin A deficiency with conjunctival xerosis
• E50.4 Vitamin A deficiency with keratomalacia
• E50.5 Vitamin A deficiency with night blindness
• E55.0 Active rickets
• H01.1 Non-infectious dermatoses of the eyelid
• H10.1 Acute atopic conjunctivitis
• H10.9 Conjunctivitis, unspecified
• H16 Keratitis
• J04 Acute laryngitis and tracheitis
• J06 Acute upper respiratory tract infections of multiple and unspecified localization
• J18 Pneumonia without specifying the pathogen
• J20 Acute bronchitis
• J22 Acute respiratory infection of the lower respiratory tract, unspecified
• J39.9 Upper respiratory tract disease, unspecified
• J42 Chronic bronchitis, unspecified
• J44.9 Chronic obstructive pulmonary disease, unspecified
• K20 Esophagitis
• K25 Stomach ulcer
• K26 Duodenal ulcer
• K29.5 Chronic gastritis, unspecified
• K29.9 Gastroduodenitis, unspecified
• K52 Other non-infectious gastroenteritis and colitis
• K74 Fibrosis and cirrhosis of the liver
• L11.0 Acquired keratosis follicularis
• L30.9 Dermatitis, unspecified
• L40 Psoriasis
• L44.0 Pityriasis red hairy pityriasis
• Q80 Congenital ichthyosis
• T14.1 Open wound of unspecified body area
• T30 Thermal and chemical burns of unspecified location
• T33-T35 Frostbite

Composition and release form

in dark glass bottles of 10 ml; in a cardboard pack 1 bottle or in dark glass bottles of 10 ml, complete with a dropper; 1 set in a cardboard pack.

Indications for the drug Retinol palmitate

Vitamin A deficiency (hypo- and avitaminosis A); eye diseases (retinitis pigmentosa, xerophthalmia, hemeralopia, keratomalacia, conjunctivitis, eczematous lesions of the eyelids), skin diseases accompanied by dryness and delayed epithelization (ichthyosis, ichthyosiform erythroderma, psoriasis, variable erythrokeratoderma, keratoderma, lichen planus pilaris (Devergie's disease), acne, seborrhea, hair diseases, neurodermatitis, follicular keratosis, superciliary ulerythema, baldness, burns, wounds, frostbite, epidermolysis bullosa, congenital pachyonychia, leukoplakia, familial benign pemphigus Hailey-Hailey, Darier's follicular dyskeratosis), skin tuberculosis; infectious and colds (measles, pneumonia, dysentery, tracheitis, bronchitis, acute respiratory infections), rickets, malnutrition, erosive gastroduodenitis, gastric and duodenal ulcers, cirrhosis of the liver (as part of complex therapy).

Contraindications

This vitamin is not recommended for hypersensitivity to the contents of the drug, pregnancy, hypervitaminosis A , acute inflammatory skin diseases, chronic pancreatitis and cholelithiasis .

In case of renal failure , viral hepatitis , alcoholism , heart failure of the second and third stages, nephritis it is necessary to take with caution.

Side effects

Rarely - manifestations of hypervitaminosis A: in adults - drowsiness, lethargy, headache, facial flushing followed by peeling, nausea, vomiting, possible exacerbation of liver disease, gait disturbance, pain in the bones of the lower extremities; in children - short-term increase in body temperature, drowsiness, increased sweating, vomiting, skin rashes. Increased intracranial pressure (infants may develop hydrocephalus, protrusion of the fontanel).

With a dose reduction or temporary discontinuation of the drug, side effects disappear on their own. In some cases, on the first day of use, itchy maculopapular rashes may occur, requiring discontinuation of the drug.

When high doses are prescribed for skin diseases, after 7–10 days of treatment, an exacerbation of the local inflammatory reaction is observed, which does not require additional treatment and subsequently decreases. This effect is associated with the myelo- and immunostimulating effects of the drug.

Retinol, retinoids. Cosmetic care for correcting age-related skin changes

The main age-related factor in the appearance of wrinkles is a decrease in the production of collagen and elastin, which are responsible for the smoothness of the skin and complexion.

Retinoids are biologically active forms of vitamin A that accelerate the process of cell renewal in connective tissue. In cosmetology, they are used to reduce the manifestations of photoaging (age spots), acne, hyperkeratosis, and wrinkles.

They have proven their effectiveness as an anti-aging component. By stimulating cell renewal, they reduce the area and number of wrinkles, and also trigger the synthesis of collagen and elastin.

Retinoids are the general name for forms of retinol, substances, both synthetic and natural, which are similar in action to retinol itself and contain vitamin A, have a similar effect on cells due to their action on receptors for retinoic acid (RA).

Vitamin A derivatives are divided into four generations - the substances of the first (retinol, retinaldehyde, tretinoin) are the most effective, but at the same time they are the most aggressive. All synthetic retinoids are medicinal substances and are not allowed in cosmetics.

Retinol is the first vitamin to be discovered at the beginning of the 20th century, which is why it received the “name” of the first letter of the alphabet. Retinol is true vitamin A, it is retinoic acid.

It is synthesized in our body from products containing beta-carotene, is responsible for healthy skin and hair, good vision, bone growth and immunity, slows down aging and is involved in the formation of new cells and restoration of the skin, and fights inflammation. It is because of a lack of vitamin A in the body that immunity decreases, hair begins to break and split, nails begin to peel, and skin begins to peel.

Retinol is known for its ability to renew the skin and have a slight peeling effect, stimulating collagen synthesis in the skin. As a result, the stratum corneum softens and evens out, and the first signs of aging disappear.

There are quite a few forms of retinol; several are used in cosmetics:

for problem skin use retinal, retinoic acid and tretinoin; Anti-aging products often use retinol acetate or retinol palmitate.

The concentration of retinol in homemade anti-aging creams is usually no more than 0.1%. In more serious medicinal drugs - from 0.4% to 1%.

Benefits of retinol:

• smoothes wrinkles and creases (including deep ones);
• accelerates the process of cell formation and regeneration;
• evens out tone and relief;
• lightens age spots;
• protects against negative environmental factors (antioxidant);
• stimulates the production of collagen and elastin;
• moisturizes and retains moisture;
• increases skin turgor (elasticity);
• improves blood circulation;
• fights acne (suppresses the activity of the sebaceous glands);
• fights post-acne (as a chemical peeling).

How does retinol work?

Interestingly, it is not retinol itself that affects cells. First, it turns into an active form called retinoic acid, which is what affects the skin. Retinol itself is very unstable. When exposed to air, it instantly oxidizes and loses all its properties.

Therefore, using it in its pure form in a cosmetic product is problematic. Manufacturers have to find different ways to preserve the core functionality of a component. For example, use the least capricious forms. Retinol palmitate is considered one of the most effective.

It is placed in microcapsules or combined with stabilizing molecules. If you look at the composition, you can find a certain pattern: the more additional molecules “attached” to retinol, the longer the product will “survive” in the air. But there is also a minus: each new molecule makes vitamin A less active.

Retinol in cosmetics is considered an almost magical mixture, as it quickly solves many problems. Due to its low molecular weight, it easily penetrates the skin at the cellular level and affects the superficial and deeper layers of the epidermis.

Retinoids, due to their ability to regenerate the skin, are best used in the evening. And in the morning, be sure to apply a product with a high SPF to protect against ultraviolet radiation, because pigment spots can appear from solar radiation.

If you take a closer look at the composition of products aimed at solving various skin problems, you may find that retinol or retinoids can work either together or separately. In a duet they enhance each other's effect. Such combinations are used more often in anti-aging and whitening cosmetics, as well as in aesthetic procedures, for example, retinoic peeling.

Retinol is a capricious substance that does not like to be in second place and does not tolerate combination with acids and acne treatment components. Retinol and vitamin C do not combine so well that they even cancel each other out.

When combining drugs containing retinol and exfoliating components (glycolic, salicylic acid), keratalics or acne treatment components (antibiotics of the erythromycin class or benzoyl peroxide), you are guaranteed irritation.

Mild retinoids with caffeine are a great option for sensitive skin. With this duet they produce products for the area around the eyes, and this is the “most vulnerable” of all areas. Together they successfully fight dark circles under the eyes, fatigue and photoaging.

Trans-retinol (labeled “TR” on packaging) is a very serious type of retinol found in night serums. It successfully copes with wrinkles, increases the elasticity and density of the skin, and generally gives the face a fresh look.

The effectiveness of retinol decreases when there is too much of it.

It is better not to combine retinol in high concentrations with itself. It is possible to exceed the maximum percentage, which can even result in a chemical burn.

Retinol is “friendly” with components that enhance its positive effect on the skin (they can be classified as retinol-like): adenosine, jasmonic acid derivatives, vitamin E, tocopherol, which protects retinol from oxidation and is therefore found in almost all retinoid preparations.

Rules for the use of retinoids in cosmetic care:

1. Gradual introduction of products with retinol and retinoids. If you plan to use cosmetics with a high concentration of vitamin A, then the course should begin with an adaptation period: first use the product 2 times a week, gradually increasing the frequency of use.
2. It is imperative to use cosmetics containing retinol in courses to avoid side effects.
3. Products containing retinol must be applied correctly. It is better to apply a cream containing vitamin A in a thin layer, as excess will oxidize, turning the skin a dirty yellow color. Retinoid cream is applied like all other cosmetics, unless otherwise stated in the instructions.
4. It is necessary to apply products with SPF protection, face creams, and foundations before going outside. Retinol can increase skin sensitivity to ultraviolet radiation and pigmentation and inflammatory processes may appear on skin exposed to sunlight.
5. In creams the concentration does not exceed 0.01–2%, but all skin types react to vitamin A differently. If the skin is thin and sensitive, it is better to start with a concentration no higher than 0.025%. If oily - with 0.5% (retinol can be drying and will slightly “slow down” the work of the sebaceous glands). Observe the skin reaction and gradually increase the dosage.
6. Pay attention to additional components, because retinol does not work well with all components. For example, a duet with alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or salicylic acid will provoke severe redness and peeling. But benzoyl peroxide (may be in anti-acne products) deactivates retinol, and the product simply will not work. To minimize the negative effects of vitamin A, look for formulas with natural oils, green tea extract, vitamin C, ceramides, peptides and hyaluronic acid.
7. As a rule, products with retinol are distributed by age categories: 35+, 45+, 55+, 60+. The main task of cream 35+ (retinol concentration from 0.1%) is anti-aging. Cream with retinol 45+ (concentration from 0.4 to 1%) fights signs of aging and evens out the appearance. And “after 50” products (concentration from 1%) are aimed at restoring and regenerating cells, smoothing out deep wrinkles and creases, and synthesis of collagen and elastin.
8. The texture of the product matters. Choose a product based on your skin type.
9. Since the active forms of vitamin A are unstable and are destroyed when exposed to sunlight, packaging and bottle are very important when choosing a product with retinol. An opaque tube or bottle is ideal.

The main contraindication is the presence of cancer. Pregnant and breastfeeding women should also not use products containing retinoids. Of course, preparations with high concentrations of vitamin A cannot be bought in stores - they are sold in pharmacies. However, it is better to consult a cosmetologist rather than prescribe retinol yourself.

Martinex peelings.

The mechanism of action of retinoic peels is fundamentally different from the mechanism of action of other chemical peels.

Retinoids do not damage the skin and do not coagulate proteins. By interacting with their own nuclear receptors of basal keratinocytes, melanocytes and fibroblasts, retinoids:

• increase the level of mitotic activity of basal keratinocytes;
• normalize the processes of differentiation and keratinization in the epidermis;
• stimulate the synthesis of epidermal lipids;
• activate the synthesis of components of the intercellular matrix of the dermis;
• normalize melanin synthesis;
• reduce the number of atypical cells.

As a result, the appearance of age-related skin changes of various etiologies slows down, pigmentation decreases, and skin texture and relief improves. Referring to superficial peels in terms of penetration depth, according to the results obtained, the BLOCK AGE PEEL CREAM peeling from the Medic Control Peel line is comparable to medium-impact peels, such as 25% trichloroacetic peel. Histological studies have shown that the stimulating effect on the cellular structures of the skin persists for another 4 months after the last application of retinoids. The formulation of the drug includes retinoic acid at a concentration of 5%, which ensures high performance of BLOCK AGE PEEL CREAM. The glycolic, phytic and ascorbic acids included in the composition also complement the action of retinoids and ensure maximum results and comfort of the procedure.

BLOCK AGE PEEL GEL - chemical peeling based on retinoic acid 5%.

It has all the advantages of drugs in this group: a complex effect on the skin and high effectiveness, which is combined with an atraumatic procedure and a short rehabilitation period. As a result of the procedure, skin aging slows down, a pronounced rejuvenating and brightening effect is provided, and the texture and relief of the skin improves.

Release form:

Phase No. 1 (2.7 ml) - 5 pcs.

Phase No. 2 (2.3 ml) - 5 pcs.

Packed in a cardboard case. For one peeling procedure, two bottles are used (phase No. 1 and phase No. 2), the contents of which are thoroughly mixed before use.

A unique feature of Block Age Peel Gel is dimethyl sulfoxide (50%), which is part of the drug, which significantly increases the permeability of all cell membranes to retinoic acid, which ensures maximum effectiveness of the procedure.

Also, dimethyl sulfoxide (Dimexide) improves metabolic processes and has a moderate local anesthetic and antimicrobial effect.

BLOCK AGE PEEL CREAM - peeling with 5% retinoic acid.

Release form: Dispenser 30 ml

It copes well with the aesthetic correction of small facial defects: wrinkles, pigment spots, post-traumatic, post-operative scars, scars after previous acne. Let's compare with medium-impact peels, such as 25% trichloroacetic peel.

The glycolic, phytic and ascorbic acids included in the product complement the action of retinoic acid and ensure maximum results and comfort of the procedure.

The complex effect of the drug on the skin and the high effectiveness of the procedure are combined with its non-traumatic nature and short rehabilitation period.

Histological studies have shown that the stimulating effect on the cellular structures of the skin persists for another 4 months after the last application of retinoids.

Proper preparation for the chemical peel procedure, as well as the use of the necessary medications during the recovery period, are extremely important to achieve the best results from the peeling procedure.

THRIPHILANBALM

Release form: Dispenser 30 ml

A restorative anti-inflammatory balm for damaged skin. It is used immediately after the procedure of chemical peeling, laser resurfacing, microdermabrasion and until the completion of the rehabilitation period.

• Quickly and completely restores damaged skin
• Normalizes regenerative processes and has a wound healing effect
• Has anti-inflammatory and bactericidal effects
• Intensely nourishes, prevents dehydration
• Eliminates erythema, symptoms of irritation and dryness, feeling of tightness
• Restores the skin's natural immunity
• Has an antioxidant effect
• Protects skin from adverse environmental factors

Active Ingredients:

• Shea Butter
• Rapeseed oil
• Coconut oil
• Tamanu oil
• Jojoba oil
• Chamomile and calendula extracts
• Retinol,
• Vitamins C and E

Directions for use: Apply to skin daily 2 times a day or more often.

Release form: Tube 50 ml

Prepeel Active cream is intended for regular care of aging skin with signs of premature aging and hyperpigmentation.

It is also ideal as a preparatory agent for chemical peeling procedures, laser resurfacing, and photo procedures.

General action:

• reduces and smoothes the stratum corneum
• normalizes pigment synthesis, reduces the risk of post-peeling hyperpigmentation
• stimulates the regenerative processes of skin cells
• increases local skin immunity

Active Ingredients:

retinol (vitamin A) - stimulates cellular renewal processes, providing a general rejuvenating effect, helps restore and strengthen epithelial cells. Promotes rapid renewal of the epidermis, reduces pigmentation and improves collagen synthesis, normalizes the function of the follicular epithelium, and has a sebum-regulating effect

Vitamin E is a powerful antioxidant, slows down the aging process, has an anti-inflammatory effect, and actively heals skin damage. Refreshes the skin, restores its water balance, protects against the harmful effects of UV rays and acts as a natural preservative.

Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that refreshes and rejuvenates the skin, evens out complexion and reduces pigmentation. Soothes sensitive skin prone to irritation and inflammation

Milk proteins are active protein complexes that have strong softening, regenerating, moisturizing, anti-allergenic and anti-inflammatory properties.

Angustifolia fireweed extract - has an anti-inflammatory effect, stimulates metabolic processes, and is a powerful antioxidant

Rapeseed oil – contains vitamin E, which protects the skin from damage caused by the external environment

VEGELIP

Format: tube 50/200 ml

A universal product for the care and protection of skin with a damaged barrier. Ideal for irritated and damaged skin. The active ingredients of the cream promote rapid regeneration, deep intensive hydration and restoration of the skin, including after aggressive procedures (after peeling, laser therapy and microdermabrasion). The cream has an antioxidant effect, stimulates cellular regeneration, and reduces wrinkles.

Active components:

• German sesame oil,
• retinol,
• vitamins E and C
• natural moisturizing complex

SEMTEMPOCREAM

Format: tube 50ml

ANTI-AGING CREAM

Complex cream for the correction of wrinkles and hyperpigmentation. Recommended for maintaining the results of chemical peels.

• Eliminates fine wrinkles
• Slows down the skin aging process
• Increases skin tone and turgor
• Stimulates the synthesis of your own collagen
• Normalizes melanin synthesis, brightens the skin
• Provides optimal levels of skin hydration
• Neutralizes free radicals
• Accelerates cellular renewal processes

Active Ingredients:

• Natural Moisturizing Complex (NaPCA)
• Phytic acid
• Milk protein
• Bearberry and green tea extracts
• Neutrazen TM (Palmitoyl tripeptide-8)
• Retinol,
• vitamins C and E

Directions for use: Apply cream to dry, clean skin 1-2 times a day. To maintain the results of chemical peeling, the cream is applied daily (according to a certain scheme).

FOR PURCHASE QUESTIONS, CONTACT THE MANAGERS OF THE TRAINING AND CONSULTING CENTER

Educational phone numbers : 8-812-248-99-34, 8-812-248-99-38, 8-812-243-91-63, 8-929-105-68-44

Application for ordering products here

Seminar schedule here

Directions for use and doses

Inside, after eating early in the morning or late in the evening.

For mild to moderate vitamin deficiency: adults - up to 33,000 IU/day; children - 1000–5000 IU/day depending on age.

For eye diseases (hemeralopia, xerophthalmia, retinitis pigmentosa): adults - 50,000–100,000 IU/day and at the same time 0.02 g of riboflavin.

For skin diseases: adults - 50,000–100,000 IU/day; for acne and ichthyosiform erythroderma - 100,000–300,000 IU/day. Children are prescribed at a rate of 5000–10000 IU/kg per day.

In gastroenterology - 50,000 IU per day.

Single doses of retinol palmitate for adults should not exceed 50,000 IU and for children - 5,000 IU. Daily doses for adults are 100,000 IU and for children - 20,000 IU.

Why use retinol for facial skin?

In one sentence, retinol stimulates cells, accelerating their renewal process. That is, it heals the skin as a whole. From here we get a wide range of actions:

• The work of the sebaceous glands improves, the pores narrow;
• Wrinkles become less pronounced, and small ones are completely smoothed out;
• Pigment spots are lightened;
• Rashes are destroyed, and traces of deep pimples and acne disappear;
• The skin becomes firmer and more elastic – the production of appropriate proteins, collagen and elastin is stimulated;
• The moisture level in the cells is maintained at normal levels. This is done by retinol stimulating the cells responsible for the production of hyaluronic acid;
• Dead cells are removed. These cells are not visible to the naked eye, but they are there even if the skin appears smooth. Over time, natural skin renewal slows down, and retinol helps bring its rate closer to normal.

Thus, retinol is used to treat problematic facial skin, rejuvenate and moisturize. However, the use of this substance has its own nuances and limitations. Cosmetologists do not recommend doing anything on your own when choosing the dosage. There are also different forms of vitamin A in cosmetology - we will also consider this issue.