Ph of human skin. Normal balance of face, head, hair, how to determine

The 1nep.ru portal has been guarding the delicate balance between theory and practice for 10 years now, authors and experts write articles and publish breaking news, the main task is that theoretical calculations should make sense at the fingertips of practicing cosmetologists and dermatologists.

Every day, working with technologies and techniques, cosmetologists think about achieving results using the safest possible methods, and the very fact that our active influence changes the state of the pH of the skin, and as a result, changes the ongoing biochemical processes, sometimes remains outside the brackets of daily actions . And this is an important mechanism that also determines the effectiveness of therapy and the need for fine manual adjustment of all the actions of the practitioner.

Let's move, dear reader, towards the hydrogen index.

For many years, marketers in soap advertisements said that the pH of the skin was 5.5, and patients firmly believed in this.

Researcher Giacomoni asked everyone to think about whether this is true?

We in the editorial office have undertaken to collect all the scientific data of recent years on exactly how pH affects the skin and under the influence of what factors it can change.

Let's start with a pH value that best matches healthy skin. What should we strive for “ideally”? Psychotherapists gently wave their hand at us and remind us that there is no norm, but there is a desire for it.

pH properties of skin and hair

The pH value stands for "hydrogen power" and is a measure of the concentration of hydrogen ions in a solution. This is a measure of the acidity of a solution compared to distilled water, which has a “neutral” pH of 7.0. Anything below 7.0 is considered acidic, and anything above is alkaline or “basic.”

Thus, acids are sour and bases are bitter. For example, lemon juice is sour because it contains approximately 5% citric acid, which has a pH of 2.2. On the other hand, baking soda tastes bitter because it has a pH of 9.0 and is alkaline.

Human skin is protected by an “acid mantle.” This is a protective barrier consisting of a film that includes sweat, oils, dead cells, pyrrolidine carboxylic acid, lactic acid, and amino acids.

The pH of human skin (the normal acid mantle) ranges from 4.0 to 7.0. In a healthy person, the average value is 4.7–5.5.

The acid barrier protects against bacteria, fungi, viruses, and environmental pollutants. Equally important is the ability of the acidic mantle to maintain the integrity of the moisture barrier and the skin microbiome.

Violation of the protective layer leads to adverse consequences:

• inflammation;
• atopic dermatitis;
• dehydration;
• dryness;
• sensitivity;
• folliculitis;
• acne;
• permeability to microorganisms, aggressive chemicals and pollutants;
• loss of water.

All sorts of disturbances occur in the hair structure. If the pH is below 6.0, the hair cuticles begin to shrink, thicken and move closer to the hair shaft.

If the pH rises above 7.0, the cuticle layer becomes porous and dissolves, causing hair damage.

Hair that has a porous structure does not retain its color for long. In this case, the cuticle will not be able to secure new pigments; they will eventually be washed away prematurely.

Why is it so important to restore the lipid layer of the skin?

Human skin is a very complex and “wise” organ. The lowest layer is the hypodermis, consisting of adipose tissue that accumulates and retains water contained in body tissues. The next layer closer to the surface is the dermis, which has special cells that absorb moisture from the hypodermis like a sponge, and this water freely flows further upward, into the epidermis, all the way to the stratum corneum. It is the stratum corneum (corneocytes linked by fatty lipids) that is the outermost layer and at the same time a lipid barrier for the subsequent release of moisture to the outside, that is, its disappearance.

It turns out that if the lipid “cement” is injured, becomes thinner or even eliminated (for example, due to the effect of alkali in the form of soap on the skin), moisture, which is an integral part of healthy, elastic and radiant skin, evaporates through the loose scales of the stratum corneum.

As a result, the following visible problems on the face arise:

• looseness;
• loss of skin elasticity;
• desquamation;
• obvious dehydration of the skin;
• dryness of the stratum corneum;
• small wrinkles.

In addition, through the injured lipid layer, various bacteria, toxins, etc. can enter the skin, which cause irritations such as:

• eczema;
• dermatitis;
• blackheads

The composition of the lipid layer includes free fatty acids (mostly oleic and linoleic), ceramides (content in the skin up to 50%) and cholesterol. There are various reasons that can “break through” this “cement”.

Norms of indicators

The pH of human skin, which is ideally 5.5, should be slightly acidic. This is an indicator of the actively working function of the skin, which protects against the penetration of bacteria and toxins.

The pH scale is a measure of the relative alkalinity (number of hydroxide ions) or acidity (number of hydrogen ions) in a substance.

The number of scale gradations increases from 0 to 14, where 7 is a neutral solution. Each step on the scale is a tenfold increase in alkalinity (moving up the scale) or acidity (moving down the scale). For example: for skin and hair, the average pH is 5.

Ph of human skin. Norm

Any substance with a pH above 7.0 is considered an alkali, and a substance with a pH below 7.0 is considered an acid. Acids owe their chemical reactivity to the presence of hydrogen ions (H+), have a sour taste, and convert litmus paper from blue to red.

The pH level characterizes a specific environment:

• acidic – from 6.9 and below;
• neutral – 7.0;
• alkaline – from 7.1 and above.

Optimal acidity of shampoo: rules of choice

First you need to determine the acidity of the scalp. Dermatologists use a special device for this purpose that accurately measures pH. This indicator can be determined conditionally on your own, since in oily hair it is alkaline, and in dry hair it is acidic. That is why shampoo with neutral pH 5.5 can only be used for normal healthy curls.

If the strands are oily, even such a neutral product can aggravate the situation, so it is better to give preference to an acidity of 4 - 4.5 pH.

Alkaline products help open the hair cuticle scales, which is why these products are used during coloring and other aggressive cosmetic procedures. If you do not subsequently use a product with an acidic formula, the curls will be dry, split ends and fragility will appear. Also, after dyeing, it is important to use acid masks to close the cuticle scales in order to keep the dye inside and maintain the brightness of the color for as long as possible.

In the table we suggest you familiarize yourself with the different types of acidity of shampoos and their properties

Skin reaction to pH changes

When the acid shell becomes too alkaline, the skin becomes sensitive and dry. In some cases, inflammation occurs and signs of aging appear due to certain enzymes that break down collagen levels.

When using products with a high pH (alkaline value), skin permeability increases. It becomes accessible to the penetration of microorganisms and becomes irritated.

Higher pH levels can cause problems:

• ichthyosis vulgaris;
• eczema;
• atopic dermatitis;
• Diaper rash candidiasis (infection caused by the yeast Candida albicans);
• acne, acne.

High pH levels accelerate the aging process of the skin.

Information on the bottle

When choosing a shampoo, most people rely on the directions on the label. Some people choose a product based on their hair type: oily, normal, dry. Others are more interested in the effect: for volume, for smoothness, for easy combing, against dandruff. There are very few people who actually look for information on the ph level on the bottle.

But it's not just consumers who are missing out on this metric. Manufacturers often do not indicate this information on the label either. At best, they can write that this product has a balanced ph level. Therefore, taking care of your health and the appearance of your curls, you should pay attention to the products of the brand that was not lazy and took care of determining the ph level, and also indicated the composition of the shampoo and determined what type of hair it is intended for and what effect the hair will have after its use.

Symptoms of acid-base imbalance

It is difficult to directly measure the acidity level of skin and hair. Doctors use a pH meter to analyze a person's outer skin. Using the tester, changes in acidity levels are detected, and the general condition is also assessed.

When the indicators shift towards an alkaline environment, the following changes are revealed:

• increased oiliness of the skin;
• the appearance of dry spots;
• rashes, redness;
• eczema;
• psoriasis;
• signs of skin aging (wrinkles, sagging).

The following signs indicate a movement of pH towards an acidic environment:

• dryness;
• microcracks;
• skin diseases caused by bacteria that develop in microcracks.

Factors and reasons that change pH

Changes in pH are influenced by endogenous factors:

• humidity of the outer cover;
• sweat;
• increased secretion of fatty substances on the surface of the epidermis.

External factors:

• Alkaline products used when washing. Soap containing a large amount of alkali actively destroys the acid balance. The pH level of the soap is around 9, which is much higher than the skin's normal pH balance.
• Age-related changes. Over the years, a person's skin balance becomes more alkaline, which affects the appearance of wrinkles, fine lines, and age spots.
• Diet directly affects pH levels. Excess caffeine, sugar, yeast, processed grains and alcohol increase the level of acidity in the system.
• Detergents and cosmetics that irritate the skin.
• Frequently taken antibiotics.
• UV rays, which weaken the acid mantle, make it more alkaline and prone to pigmentation, leading to discoloration of the skin surface and the appearance of acne.

• Using hot water when washing your face and body.
• Strong cleaning with scrubs and hard washcloths.
• Use of abrasive detergents.
• Frequent showering.
• Hard tap water with a high mineral content that has a pH of 8.5 or more.

All these habits reduce the protective properties of the acid mantle.

Acidity of other hair cosmetics

Depending on the purpose, composition and active ingredient, cosmetic products for different procedures have different pH levels:

• perm or straightening products 7-9;
• powders with high brightening power and bleaching agents – more than 12;
• toning agents – 8;
• mild action brighteners – 10-11.5;
• permanent dyes – 9-10.

To care for hair after aggressive exposure to chemicals, it is important to use products with a high acid content, which smooth the strands and seal the cuticle. As a result, the curls become smooth and silky, filled with natural strength and shine.

Air conditioner

If you need conditioner for hair that requires special care and deep nutrition, it is better to choose products with a pH of 3.5-4. Such products have a rich organic composition, rich in vitamins, amino acids and active microelements, which penetrate deeply into the structure of the strands and are securely sealed there. As a result, the curls look elastic and filled with vitality.

For dyed strands, in order to maintain the shine and brightness of the color, conditioners with an acidity of 2.5-3 are recommended. These products have a balanced formula, deeply nourish curls and tightly seal the cuticle due to high acidity. At the same time, the product does not weigh down the strands, so a healthy root volume is maintained. If your hair is prone to oiliness, it is better to use a conditioner with a lower pH level of 3.8-4.2 after coloring.

Leave-in products

Thickening hair serums predominantly have a neutral or slightly acidic balance of 4.5-5.5. This ensures the most delicate effect on the structure of curls and preservation of natural shine. All components included in such products are securely held inside the hair structure and protect the strands from drying out, tangling and brittleness.

Products used for protection during heat styling, as well as to prevent the aggressive effects of ultraviolet radiation, may have an acidity of 3-4. Heat-protecting products for achieving perfect, delicious smoothness have a very acidic formula with a rating of 2. Such products also perfectly protect curls from the aggressive effects of sea water while relaxing on the beach.

Fluids are the lightest, most delicate leave-in products, so their pH is close to neutral and is 5-6. It is important to use such products on hair that has been previously washed with an acid-appropriate shampoo and conditioner.

How to determine the acid-base balance of skin and hair?

Methods for determining acidity level:

• Indicators or test strips. The measurement is carried out using litmus strips that are applied to the skin. The change in color of the dough determines the pH level. To do this, the test strips are accompanied by a special scale marked on paper.

• Electronic testers. A dermatologist will determine the acidity level using a special device.
• Visual observation. A general idea of ​​the skin level can be obtained through careful observation. Skin with a soft texture and no dry patches will be considered balanced. Irritation, dryness, redness, excessive peeling can be signs of high pH of the skin and its movement towards acidification. The appearance of acne, pimples, enlarged pores, shine, indicates that the alkaline norm is increasing.

How to normalize skin pH

The norm is considered balanced at a level of 4.7-5, which it is advisable to maintain constantly. To keep your skin fresh and glowing, you should follow some rules.

To reduce the influence of external factors, many dermatologists recommend washing your face with herbal infusions or decoctions. Vinegar and milk shift the pH value towards oxidation. Therefore, milk or vinegar diluted with water is preferable to tap water for washing.

How to stabilize the pH of your scalp and hair

After restoring normal pH, the acid-base balance should be maintained:

• Use micellar water for washing, specially developed products with additives of natural plant products.

• Use cosmetics without sulfates and parabens. The higher the alkali content in facial products, the more irritation appears on the skin.
• Acidic products help fight acne. Alkaline ingredients restore skin with eczema and psoriasis.
• Using a tonic helps quickly restore and maintain skin pH.
• Use moisturizers. Oils, lotions, gels and thick creams are suitable for this. Moisturizers vary depending on seasonal weather.
• Exfoliating with gentle exfoliants once a week can be beneficial for skin care.

Plant acids, which are used in chemical peels and microdermabrasion products, help maintain healthy skin. Such procedures should be carried out in specialized clinics.

Rules for choosing products to normalize the acid-base balance

The pH of human skin and its acidity levels change throughout the day and depend on the time of year. Therefore, cosmetics are produced in different types: seasonal, evening, daytime. To avoid irritation, you should use products that have the same pH as the skin. Oily skin has a stronger alkaline environment of 5.7–6, while dry skin adheres to an acidic environment of 3–5.2.

Particular care should be taken when using peeling products and cosmetics with AHA acids. Long-term and improper use damages the water-lipid protective layer of the skin.

Emulsions with pH 5.5 are suitable for daily washing. Most creams have the same indicator. If the cream is moisturizing, then its pH is not particularly important, since it does not contain components that must penetrate the epidermal layer. A nourishing cream or mask always contains ingredients that reduce skin pH to make it easier for nutrients to penetrate the skin.

All nourishing creams should not be left on the skin for more than 20 minutes. Leaving the cream overnight destroys the lipid layer. All peelings change the acid-base balance, so after using them you should apply a moisturizing or nourishing cream.

Tonics have a pH range from 3.8 to 6.3. For delicate skin, products with a pH between 3.8 and 4.5 should be used. For normal pH, the pH should be 4.4; for problematic acne and in the treatment of acne, the pH should be 6.1–6.3.

At low pH

The epidermis of thin, sensitive skin contains fewer layers. Their stratum corneum is thinned, they have impaired synthesis of epidermal lipids. Such skin does not perform protective functions well. Cosmetic products with an acidity of 5.5 are suitable for them.

At elevated pH

Oily, problematic skin needs acidification. For it, you should purchase creams and other products with a pH of 4.0–4.5. This will help neutralize the alkaline balance.

Normal skin needs cosmetics that have a balanced pH.

Salon procedures to restore the lipid layer of facial skin

Glycolic peeling

Glycolic peeling is a superficial chemical peel using glycolic acid as a base. Its advantage is that it is effective for all skin types and has no age restrictions (except for children under 15 years of age). It has been proven that glycolic acid, having a low molecular weight, very easily penetrates the upper layers of the skin and effectively moisturizes it.

In addition to a fairly accurate but enhanced softening of the dead layer, glycolic peeling exhibits an antioxidant effect and activates the production of collagen and elastin. As a result, the skin becomes smoother, it is restored, and the color is evened out.

The procedure begins with the cosmetologist applying a weak solution of glycolic acid to the face, which softens and degreases the desired area. Next, the glycolic gel itself is uniformly distributed: it is kept on the skin for literally a few minutes, after which it is removed with a neutralizing solution. Finally, a moisturizing or nourishing mask is made with a toning effect: the skin, freed from dead cells, can finally absorb the active ingredients of the mask.

Professionals advise carrying out glycolic peeling in courses consisting of 4–10 sessions, following the indications. Restrictions on the procedure: the presence of injuries and formations on the skin, pregnancy, hormonal therapy, etc. In addition, after the session it is forbidden to be in the sun. If you are still not ready for redness and flaking of the skin after peeling, there are less drastic ways to restore the lipid layer, for example, courses of masks with glycolic acid.

Biorevitalization with hyaluronic acid

Most care products applied in the form of creams or masks do not penetrate to the depth where their action is necessary, so they can give the skin freshness, but are unlikely to restore the lipid layer and guarantee long-term results. Sometimes, for a visible effect, cosmetologists advise resorting to injection methods, in particular biorevitalization.

This is a fairly new version of mesotherapy, which came to cosmetology from alternative medicine. The difference from the classical procedure is that high concentration hyaluronic acid of non-animal origin is used for biorevitalization. This product is designed to activate blood circulation in the layers of the skin, enhance the production of collagen and elastin. As a result, the skin becomes more elastic, tightness and dryness are reduced, small wrinkles are leveled out and the lipid layer is restored.

Like any serious procedure, biorevitalization has a number of contraindications - from breastfeeding to acute respiratory infections. Some scientists doubt the effectiveness of the method, but patients confirm its effectiveness by ordering a course not only for the face, but also for the neck, décolleté and even hands. Typically the course consists of four sessions. There is also non-injection biorevitalization, which involves treating the skin with an infrared athermal laser using a specialized gel.

Nowadays, you no longer have to spend a lot of time taking care of your skin or perform complex and unpleasant procedures at home. It is much easier to seek help from real professionals - the Veronika Herba beauty and health center, equipped with effective and modern equipment.

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• This is a beauty center where you can take care of yourself at a reasonable cost, while your face and/or body will be treated not by an ordinary cosmetologist, but by one of the best dermatologists in Moscow. This is a completely different, higher level of service!
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Determination of pH in cosmetics

Most cosmetic creams have a pH of 5.5. All hair care products have an acidic pH. In shampoos it is higher, and in masks, styling products, and balms it is lower.

All cosmetics with a pH below 5.5 are best used under the supervision of a cosmetologist. Cosmetics with an alkaline level are prescribed to people to treat psoriasis.

How to properly use shampoos with different acidity

All shampoos for colored hair have an acidic formula that reliably seals the cuticle and provides optimal care.

If you often use strong-hold styling products, including varnishes, gels and structuring pastes, you must ensure deep cleaning, for which an alkaline product is best suited. It opens up the cuticle and helps clean strands.

It is important to provide deep nutrition and seal the cuticle after washing. Conditioners and balms with an acidity of 3-6 pH are suitable for this.

If after using shampoo you notice that your hair becomes too fluffy, dry and unruly, then your cosmetic product has a high pH level. If after washing the curls quickly become oily, look heavy, are difficult to style and there is no root volume, then the shampoo is very acidic. Thus, you need to constantly monitor the condition of the strands and use suitable products as needed.

It is optimal to use acidic and alkaline shampoos with periodic alternation depending on the condition of the curls. For normal strands, shampoo 4.5-7 pH is suitable for daily washing.

Additionally, once every 14 days, deep cleaning with an alkaline agent with a rating of 7 or more is recommended. Dry hair requires a deep cleanse with an alkaline product on average once a month, subject to daily use of more acidic products.

Review of cosmetics with pH optimal for skin

The pH of human skin, the ideal value of which is 5.5, is lower or higher than normal and is considered a deviation and indicates various skin disorders. Manufacturers of cosmetic products take this into account when creating various types of creams, gels, and shampoos.

Alkaline products

The group of alkaline products includes hair dyes with a pH from 8.5 to 11. This category also includes preparations for curling and straightening hair. To neutralize the harmful effects after their use, you should use shampoos with a pH of 5.5 and conditioners with a pH value of 3-5.

Cosmetics for body and face include deep cleaning products:

• Cosmetics Concept. Deep Cleaning Shampoo. The product solves several problems at once: it enhances the effect of coloring pigments, removes salt deposits from the surface of the hair, and fills it with shine.
• Cosmetics CYRISTINA, Forever Young line. Solves the problems of dryness, dehydration, slows down the signs of aging. Eliminates the feeling of tightness and restores tenderness to the skin.
• NIVEA double effect. A two-phase eye makeup remover that gently cares for eyelashes and is suitable for removing waterproof makeup.

Acidic products

This group includes most cosmetic preparations for hair, body, and face:

• CHRISTINA cosmetics, Forever Young line. It is intended for oily, problem and combination skin. It is recommended to use no more than once a day, preferably in the evening after cleansing.
• CHRISTINA cosmetics, Illustrious line. Used for oily problem skin, dry and sensitive. Reduces signs of aging, hyperpigmentation.
• Clarins Gentle Exfoliator. The toner contains glycolic and salicylic acid. Suitable for dry skin, actively moisturizes it.
• Planeta Organica. The natural peeling products contained in this cosmetic line are suitable for all skin types. Contains useful acids: citric, lactic, almond. Gently cleanses the surface, reduces wrinkles, smoothes microrelief.
• Librederm. A facial peeling product containing chamomile extract does not cause irritation and whitens age spots. The bactericidal properties of the drug reduce the activity of the sebaceous glands.

The acid group includes most masks, conditioners, and shampoos. The widest group is masks and balms, the pH of which is in the range of 3.5–6.

• Balm-mask from Kapous . Restoring balm is intended for all hair types. The active elements included in the product have a beneficial effect on the cuticle, ensure good combing of the hair, and give it strength and shine.
• Revlon Professional SM. After use, the hair becomes thicker and more voluminous, the substances contained in the balm strengthen the hair and protect it from external influences.

Neutral means

This group includes hair preparations: neutral, slightly alkaline and temporary dyes.

Body products that will not cause irritation do not contain questionable ingredients:

• DOVE, micellar anti-stress shower gel. The effective soft gel formula is suitable for all skin types, moisturizes and nourishes it. Does not contain sulfates and is a neutral product. The pH value is close to the pH of human skin.
• LA SOLUTION 10 DE CHANEL, cream for sensitive skin. Protects and increases the skin's resistance to stress and chemical pollution.
• Biophyto line, CH cosmetics Refreshing tonic used morning and evening, suitable for all skin types. Solves the problems of seborrhea, rosacea, relieves irritation.
• LONDA PROFESSIONAL SUN SPARK. Sunscreen shampoo and hair conditioner. The structure of the products includes components that restore hair, making it manageable and soft. The shampoo refreshes the scalp, the conditioner gives the hair a soft and manageable look.
• Moisturizing body milk. Does not contain harmful additives, suitable for all skin types, even the most reactive. The composition of n7a consists of 98% natural ingredients.

When choosing cosmetics for the body, you should take into account the individual characteristics of the skin and its pH value.

The pH value of cosmetic products has an effective effect on humans. It helps keep skin and hair healthy and solve many problems. Incorrectly selected cosmetics can worsen the condition. Therefore, it is important to determine your skin type and choose an effective product that can maintain normal balance.

What to do to restore the lipid layer of facial skin

Cleansing

Restoring the lipid layer must begin with washing. Read in detail the characteristics of your cleanser; perhaps it is the main reason for the destruction of the stratum corneum. All cosmetics that come into contact with the skin should act very gently on the epidermis.

To reduce the likelihood of irritation, it is recommended to wash your face with a cleanser no more than twice a day, since the action of the active substances included in its composition, even if they are very gentle, is aimed at removing skin impurities and does not distinguish between used and protective oils or sweat and skin moisture. The cleansing preparation should come into contact with the lipid layer of the face for a very short time, then it must be washed off without leaving any traces.

Today, water in cities is a big problem. It often contains substances that have a negative effect on injured skin. Consequently, during the peak of sensitivity and irritability of the epidermis, it will be better to wash with specialized purchased water or floral water obtained by steam distillation from fragrant herbs and flowers.

Skin nutrition

To ensure restoration of the lipid layer, it needs to be “patched” with something. For this purpose, lipid particles are used both in the form of pure oils and in combination with other components in cosmetics. Lipid molecules pass into the intercellular spaces and are embedded in the lipid barrier. The fat particles applied on top move smoothly, reaching the living layers of the skin, and join the cellular metabolism. They may also be the basis for future lipid synthesis, which is characteristic of the stratum corneum of the skin.

Very often, to provide cells with “building material” and restore their functioning, various oils are used that contain essential fatty acids (linoleic and gamma-linolenic).

Skin hydration

Restoring the epidermal layer is one of the options for moisturizing dry skin. This method is very slow and takes time. Restoration of the lipid layer is the limitation of moisture evaporation through the stratum corneum. You can do it differently: moisten the stratum corneum directly or cover it with a damp film. There is another option for restoring the skin: increasing blood flow in the vessels of the dermis and, as a result, increasing the flow of moisture into the epidermis.

These three stages are necessary to restore the lipid layer of the skin.

Today, moisturizing components are becoming increasingly popular - natural substances that form a film filled with moisture on the skin. These products include hyaluronic acid, chitosan, β-glucan from baker's yeast, protein hydrolysates (collagen or wheat protein). It is not recommended to use Vaseline and other heavy oils to moisturize and restore the lipid layer of the skin, as they form a waterproof film on the skin, which also does not allow air to pass through.

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• How to remove wrinkles on the face: the most effective methods
• Microcurrent facial therapy - a beneficial treatment for your skin