Progress in cosmetology does not stop for a minute. More and more effective drugs are appearing on the shelves of stores and pharmacies. However, affordable, proven, familiar means are still popular. Salicylic acid is no exception. It is still at the top of the list among cosmetologists and dermatologists, thanks to its positive effects on the skin.
Salicylic acid what is it?
Salicylic acid, or BHA acid
is a fat-soluble acid from the category of phenolic beta-hydroxy acids. It is poorly soluble in water and well in alcohol; it appears as colorless crystals. In cosmetology it is found as Salicylic Acid and is a common keratolytic component in the basis of exfoliating formulas and products for oily problem skin.
BHA acid was first obtained from willow bark soaked in hot water at the end of the 19th century and began to be actively used in pharmaceuticals and cosmeceuticals due to its unique chemical properties. Today, the product is manufactured synthetically, including for the purpose of producing a suitable concentration for safe use in cosmetology. Let's look at the beneficial properties of salicylic acid for facial skin.
The main functions of salicylic acid in cosmetology:
- The bactericidal and antiseptic properties of the component help fight acne and minimize inflammation.
- Desmosomes destroy the intercellular connections of keratinized cells, promoting intense exfoliation of the skin.
- The process of regeneration of epidermal cells is accelerated.
- Reduces the activity of the sebaceous glands and has a sebum-regulating effect.
- Penetrating into the pores, the acid deeply cleanses them of sebum accumulation and external impurities, reduces blackheads and the occurrence of acne.
- Evens out the tone and texture of the face, fights visible age-related changes in the skin.
- Lightens and whitens the skin, reduces pigmentation and post-acne marks.
- Improves microcirculation and accelerates the tissue healing process.
Origins Clear Improvement Moisturizing & Pore Cleansing Cream
Cost – 2,190 rubles
If in the characteristics of a cream you see the note “cleanses pores,” rest assured: it definitely contains salicylic acid. Here it is only 1% - this is not the maximum, but it is very effective, and most importantly, a gentle concentration that is suitable for daily use.
Another very interesting component of the cream is bamboo charcoal. In China, it is called “black diamond” for its ability to absorb substances significantly exceeding its own weight. Therefore, do not hesitate: 100% cleansing is guaranteed!
Applications of salicylic acid
The scope of salicylic acid in care is not limited to its inclusion in skin care products. The component is widely used in the treatment of certain diseases and is the basis of many medicines. We'll tell you where BHA acid is used and what its benefits are.
- In cosmetics
In addition to the fact that salicylic acid is a common component in the basis of corrective care for oily and problematic skin, it is also used in anti-aging product formulas: thanks to its ability to trigger accelerated regeneration of skin cells, the acid smoothes wrinkles, fights pigment spots, and dull complexion.
The substance can also be found in hair shampoos aimed at combating hair loss and against seborrheic dermatitis (dandruff). Highly effective and safe cosmetics based on salicylic acid that have undergone strict dermatological control are best purchased in pharmacies.
- In cosmetology
In cosmetology, acid is used primarily as the basis for salicylic peels (up to 20% of the composition) for the skin. Despite its acidic properties, the component is highly safe. Salicylic peels are aimed at increasing microcirculation, renewing epidermal cells, and evening out the tone and texture of the face. Preparations based on BHA acid are effective in combating burns, acne and post-acne, the first signs of aging, calluses, and warts.
- In pharmaceuticals
In medicine, salicylic acid derivatives are found in antiseptic ointments (containing 2, 3, 5, 10%), anti-inflammatory powders, pastes, and alcohol solutions for external use (containing 1 or 2%). Acetylsalicylic acid (aspirin) in tablets is used as an antipyretic and analgesic and is available without a prescription.
Salicylic acid is successfully used in the treatment of common skin diseases, for example, some types of lichen, psoriasis, seborrhea, alopecia, keratoses, eczema, dermatitis. The composition can also be used to treat burns and wet exuding wounds.
When is it time to throw away your skincare product?
When does the expiration date expire?
Most products, when properly stored unopened, expire within 2-3 years. This time is the limit to the effectiveness of preservative ingredients or alcohols. Alcohols protect cosmetics from the proliferation of microbes in them. After the expiration date, they no longer cope with this function, and the cream can become not only useless, but even harmful.
Where should you store your skincare products?
The bathroom is not the best place for your favorite jars. It is too humid there and this can shorten the shelf life of the cream. It is best to store everything in a dry, cool and dark place. Place products in a cosmetics container and keep them away from the sun and moisture. For example, in a chest of drawers.
In 2013, they conducted a study of decorative cosmetics that women use - most often mascara is in their cosmetic bag. And in 70% of cases it turned out that the product was expired. All carcasses were checked: 79% of them harbored staphylococcus bacteria. They can cause, for example, conjunctivitis. Therefore, no matter how expensive and beloved your skincare or makeup product is, throw it away when the time comes.
When does the post-opening period end?
When they write “expiration date” on the packaging, they mean the period during which the product is in sealed form. As soon as you have opened the product and used it, focus on the period after opening (POA). According to the standard, it is indicated on the products in the form of a tube with an inscription in the form of a number and the letter M. This is the number of months during which the care can be used. It looks like this:
Liquid for dissolving cuticles. Even it has an expiration date! Two years to use it, and then no, no.
Facial serum with niacinamide. The shelf life is as per standard - 3 years and there is a POA at the bottom - 12 months.
Sunscreen lotion for face and body. Only the expiration date is given, so it is worth writing down the date the tube was opened and counting 6 months to know the POA.
As you can see, the period after opening is not indicated everywhere. This is due to the fact that different countries have different standards. In EU countries, a POA is mandatory if the product's shelf life exceeds 30 months. And in the USA, the right to indicate this parameter or not remains with the manufacturer.
In any case, you can find out both the expiration date and the period after opening yourself - on the websites of organizations that control the release of products, medicines and cosmetics onto store shelves.
Most creams, lotions, and serums are stored for 3 years when unopened, and 6 months after opening.
How to find out the expiration date yourself
For the most curious, there are online services for calculating the expiration date of face and body care products:
- checkcosmetic.net - here you can calculate the shelf life using the batch code, an encryption code that each cosmetic brand has its own.
- checkfresh.com is another such service in case you haven’t found your product in another database.
Indications for the use of cosmetics with salicylic acid
Summarizing the main beneficial properties of BHA acid, we can conclude that the product is most effective in the fight against the following imperfections:
- Pigment spots
It is used as a means of whitening and lightening pigment and stagnant spots. - Enlarged pores
Reduces sebaceous and sweat ducts, destroying the connections between keratinocytes in them, narrows pores, regulates sebum production. - Blackheads
Cleans pores from sebum residues, prevents the occurrence of inflammatory elements and new imperfections. - Acne
Used as part of local SOS products, which are applied precisely to inflammation and pimples and left, for example, overnight for effect. Suppresses the activity of propionibacteria acne, prevents recurrence of rashes. - Expression wrinkles
Renews the upper layer of the epidermis, helps smooth out fine wrinkles. - Dermatitis, psoriasis, eczema
Dissolves dead cells, minimizes flaking, itching, has anti-inflammatory and antiseptic properties. - Dandruff (seborrhea)
Effectively removes seborrheic formations, dandruff particles, cleanses the scalp and has an antimicrobial and antipruritic effect.
Precautionary measures
- It is not recommended to apply products containing more than 10% salicylic acid to the skin to avoid tissue burns.
- Alcohol solutions based on BHA acid from the pharmacy dry out the skin and can cause dehydration; it is not recommended to apply the solution in its pure form to the skin.
- Hypersensitive and very dry skin may react to pure salicylic acid with irritation, redness, peeling, and hives.
- Salicylic acid in La Roche-Posay skincare products is absolutely safe and completely devoid of the disadvantages of using acid in its pure form.
What does cosmetics consist of?
A typical care product contains from 15 to 50 ingredients. And if you consider that the average woman uses at least 9 such products per day, it turns out that more than 500 cosmetic ingredients come into contact with the skin every day.
Products that are almost always included in cosmetics: water, emulsifier, preservative, stabilizer, emollient, acidity stabilizer and perfume composition.
In the list they are listed according to the rule from higher to lower concentration: the first five ingredients are the bulk of your product, the rest are contained in a small concentration, usually no more than 5%. But even a small concentration affects the skin. For example, niacinamide also works at a concentration of 2% - it mattifies the skin and evens out its tone. Therefore, you need to pay attention to all components in the composition.
Features of the use of salicylic acid for different skin types
For oily and problem skin
Salicylic acid for the face, according to its key functions in cosmetology, is intended primarily for the care of oily skin types. However, you should not overdo it with its use. Combine drying products based on BHA acid with moisturizing products that prevent tissue dehydration.
For dry and sensitive skin
Salicylic acid dries the skin if you neglect the recommendations for its use. Therefore, dermatologists do not recommend using products with a high content of it in formulas. When caring for sensitive skin, acids should be used with caution, as aggressive components irritate the skin and increase its reactivity.
For normal
To care for normal skin types, it is recommended to use products based on salicylic acid for regular exfoliation of the skin: wipe your face with a tonic or lotion based on salicylic acid (1-2, maximum 5% of the composition). It is better to avoid aggressive salicylic peels. If inflammation or acne occurs, it is recommended to apply salicylic acid-based cream locally.
For combined
To care for combination skin, use products with formulas based on salicylic acid and hyaluronic acid to prevent dehydration in the dry areas of the face in the U-zone.
Short
- The first 5 ingredients in cosmetics are the basis of the product, the content of the rest is usually no more than 5%.
- Surfactants and surfactants are needed to cleanse the skin.
- Emulsifiers help immiscible ingredients mix together.
- Fatty alcohols in cosmetics make the texture of the product softer.
- Emollients soften the skin.
- Acidity stabilizers maintain the chemical formula of the product.
- The perfume composition is responsible for the aroma of the product; it can contain natural and synthetic flavors.
- Collagen, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, aloe vera moisturize the skin.
- Acids will help renew the skin and eliminate hyperpigmentation.
- Antioxidants protect from the sun and fight signs of aging.
- Arbutin, kojic acid, vitamin C - lighten the skin.
- Drugs can be found in acne or dandruff products, as well as antiperspirants and SPF products.
- Most creams, lotions, and serums are stored for 3 years when unopened, and 6 months after opening.
Forms of release of cosmetics with salicylic acid
Let's look at the formats in which salicylic acid products are produced:
- Cleansing foams and gels for oily problem skin, for example, Effaclar gel micro-exfoliating gel for washing.
- Lotions and tonics for the second stage of cleansing and toning for oily problem and combination skin. Choose Effaclar pore tightening lotion with a mattifying effect.
- Deep cleansing masks with a mattifying effect for oily and problematic skin.
- Peels and scrubs for intensive exfoliation at home and accelerating cell regeneration are used no more than once a week.
- Cream for correcting imperfections: post-acne, acne, blackheads, oily shine and early signs of aging (expression wrinkles and pigmentation). Corrective cream-gel for problem skin Effaclar Duo (+) eliminates sebaceous shine, reduces imperfections, preventing their reoccurrence, and moisturizes.
- SOS products with an accelerated effect against imperfections: relieve inflammation, redness, have an antimicrobial effect, and prevent the formation of stagnant spots. Local corrective agent Effaclar AI is suitable
Review of cosmetics with salicylic acid from La Roche-Posay
Moisturizing mattifying emulsion Effaclar Mat
EFFACLAR MAT
Mattifying sebum-regulating emulsion
Contains the Sebulyse component, which reduces sebum production, providing a mattifying effect and helping to tighten pores. Intensely moisturizes and prevents skin from dehydration.
RUB 1,714 more details
Based on salicylic acid, perlite and sebulise, it is suitable for oily and combination skin: it regulates the synthesis of sebum, reduces the greasy shine of the face for up to 6 hours, moisturizes the epidermis and has a non-comedogenic texture.
Consumer reviews:
Nadezhda: Suitable for makeup. Mattifies for the whole day, while not drying, but moisturizes the skin. I've been using it for six months. There are fewer rashes.
Anna: Super cream. It really mattifies! I liked it the first time! Light texture, the skin is immediately velvety and matte) an excellent base for makeup.
Effaclar concentrated serum
EFFACLAR
Ultra concentrated serum for skin with imperfections
Reduces pronounced imperfections and visibly tightens pores, preventing the reappearance of marks on the skin
RUB 2,392 more details
With a formula based on three acids and epidermis-soothing niacinamide, it reduces imperfections and evens out skin tone and texture. Suitable for anti-aging care and for oily problem skin.z>
Consumer reviews:
Anastasia: Excellent serum, I really liked it! A really good solution for problem skin. It is better to use it once a day, I do it at night, since the product contains acids. It is better not to use it twice a day, as it dries out the skin. I use it only on those places where the skin is oily in the T-zone. A lot of inflammation has gone away from my chin. It works well on spot pimples and I also use it as an SOS product. I recommend the product!
AHA fruit acids
AHA acids (alpha hydroxy acids):
- glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid.
(look for these names in English - Glycolic Acid, Alpha-hydroxyethanoic Acid, Apple Acid, Citric Acid, Dihydroxysuccinic Acid, Hydroxyacetic Acid, Hydroxysuccinic Acid, Lactic Acid, Malic Acid, Monohydroxysuccinic Acid, Tartaric Acid)
AHA acids are water soluble. This means that they work on the surface of the skin without penetrating deep into the skin.
What do AHA acids do?
AHA acids:
- exfoliates the skin perfectly
- smooth the skin
- provide antioxidant protection
- moisturize the skin
- improve skin color and texture
- lightens acne marks and pigmentation
- cleanses pores a little
- have a beneficial effect on acne.
- stimulate collagen synthesis, make the skin firmer and increase skin elasticity.
AHA acids give a visible effect at a concentration of 5-10% and at a pH of 3-4. These are very important indicators!
Glycolic acid in cosmetics
The most effective and popular acid in cosmetics, and it has the highest risk of irritation.
Glycolic acid is found in these products:
- Alpha-H Liquid Gold is the famous liquid gold with 5% glycolic acid (note, the peel also contains alcohol). (my post here)
There are a huge number of serums and toners with glycolic acid on iHerb:
- DeVita, High Performance Glycolic Acid Blend, 1.0 oz (30 ml)
- Elizavecca, Hell-Pore Clean Up, AHA Fruit Toner, 200 ml - Excellent toner with AHA acids
- Derma E, Overnight Peel, Exfoliant Facial, 2 fl oz (60 ml) - a good strong product with acids
- Pixi Beauty, Glow Peel Pads, Advanced Exfoliating Treatment, 60 Pads - glycol pads
- Pixi Beauty, Skintreats, Radiant Skin Toner, Exfoliating Toner - Glycolic Acid Toner
- Cosrx, AHA/BHA Clarifying Treatment Toner, 150 ml - here are both AHA and BHA acids
Lactic acid in cosmetics
Lactic acid is much softer than glycolic acid, but no less effective, and it also moisturizes the skin.
My top products containing lactic acid:
- Ren Wake Wonderful Night-Time Facial – overnight face mask with lactic and glycolic acids
- Ren Ready Steady Glow Daily AHA Tonic - every day facial tonic with lactic and azelaic acids in the composition
- Omorovicza Copper Peel – a very interesting facial peeling with lactic acid and copper
- Sarah Chapman Liquid Facial Resurfacer – every day facial toner with lactic and phytic acids, as well as a whole range of anti-aging components
- Oskia Renaissance Mask – soft face mask with lactic acid
- Reviva Labs, Pomegranate/Lactic Acid, Exfoliant, 2 oz (55 g) is an excellent lactic acid mask from iHerb. I wrote about it here - Reviva Labs Lactic Acid Mask
Mandelic acid
Mandelic acid is the softest and weakest acid; it is best suited for those with sensitive and reactive skin. By the way, it can also be used in the summer.
Cosmetics with mandelic acid:
- MyChelle Dermaceuticals, Fruit Fiesta Peel, Anti-Aging, 1.2 fl oz (35 ml) - anti-aging facial peeling
- The Ordinary Mandelic Acid 10% + HA – serum with 10% mandelic acid;
- Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta Ultra Gentle Daily Peel – Mandelic and Lactic Acid Exfoliating Facial Wipes
- Wishtrend Mandelic Acid 5% Skin Prep Water – facial toner with 5% mandelic acid
Frequently Asked Questions About Salicylic Acid
Dermatologist Alexander Prokofiev, an expert of the La Roche-Posay brand, answers the questions.
Is it possible to apply salicylic acid to acne?
Formulas with salicylic acid are designed specifically for the care of oily skin prone to imperfections. Safe corrective care for oily problem skin can be purchased at pharmacies in your city.
Is it possible to wipe your face with salicylic acid?
It is not recommended to wipe your face with a pharmaceutical alcohol solution of salicylic acid, even with very oily skin. The product dries out the epidermis, which will provoke increased sebum synthesis; the skin will begin to self-hydrate, which will cause clogged pores and rashes. It is better to wipe your face with a salicylic acid-based toner, for example, Effaclar mattifying pore-narrowing lotion.
Who is salicylic acid suitable for?
Salicylic acid is most often found in skin care formulas for oily, acne-prone skin. If you have sensitive, dry skin, you should avoid using acid-containing cosmetic products.
Side effects
Cosmetics with salicylic acid are safe for the skin, except that an allergic reaction may occur. But if you are experimenting with homemade compositions, then you need to be careful with the component. High concentrations may cause burns.
Side effects may also occur if you do not follow the instructions for use on the package. For example, if you use the product more often or exceed the dosage. The most common consequence is excessive dry skin. There is also a risk of sunburn if you do not apply sunscreen after using the product.
