Hyaluronic acid: how to choose a drug? What manufacturers and cosmetologists are hiding

Hyaluronic acid is a polymer molecule that consists of small compounds with a carbohydrate structure. The physical properties of the acid are unique - it can retain water molecules by forming a gel-like structure, which has a positive effect on the condition of the skin. At the pharmacy you can buy expensive and cheap creams/gels for beauty and youth. Many of them contain hyaluronic acid. Practice shows that it is this component that allows you to see the effect immediately after the first use. Pharmacy face creams with hyaluronic acid: Curiosin, Pectilift, Radevit, Heparin ointment. So, let's look at what is included in facial products, what are the features of use, and how to prepare the cream at home yourself?

Types of fillers used in aesthetic medicine

Fillers can be defined as substances introduced into tissue to fill a defect, such as a wrinkle. Depending on their chemical composition, they can be divided into two groups:

• Biological fillers
  . That is, completely natural substances that the body perceives as “its own” and, therefore, inert in relation to the body. Such fillers are characterized by faster or slower tissue resorption, depending on the preparation. Raw hyaluronic acid is a biological filler, but in this form it is practically not used.
• Synthetic fillers
  - partially or completely. Synthetic fillers are characterized by very slow absorption into tissues and they can also be permanent. Hyaluronic acid offered for aesthetic medicine contains a small percentage of synthetic impurities, which allows it to stay in tissues longer.

The ideal filler should be characterized by the highest possible filling results, long-term effects, minimal damage to the body during its implantation, availability and, above all, safety. Hyaluronic acid meets all the requirements, so it is close to ideal.

Hyalual

Injectable preparation for the redermalization procedure.

A unique formula combining sodium succinate and hyaluronic acid:

Sodium succinate provides a powerful restorative effect, stimulates the synthesis of collagen and elastin, enhances microcirculation, and has an antioxidant effect.

Hyaluronic acid – eliminates skin dehydration and moisturizes it.

Redermalization is skin rejuvenation by restoring its dermal layer. This technique affects all three main pathogenetic mechanisms of skin aging:

1. Regulates biochemical and physiological processes in cells.
2. Actively blocks free radicals.
3. Eliminates skin dehydration

The result is a comprehensive anti-age effect:

• Skin restoration - improving its texture and appearance, increasing firmness and elasticity, eliminating hyperpigmentation
• Skin rejuvenation – powerful lifting, wrinkle reconstruction
• Improved skin nutrition - improved complexion
• Slowing down aging – preventing cell destruction and the formation of atypical cells

What is hyaluronic acid obtained from?

The first hyaluronic acid-based products were created in the 1980s. Hyaluronic acid was originally obtained from cockscombs, so these fillers contained a mixture of poultry proteins. Currently, hyaluronic acid is obtained by biofermentation of Streptococcus equi and Bacillus Subtilis bacteria, strains that are non-pathogenic to humans.

Due to the fact that hyaluronic acid is the same substance for all organisms and species, its biocompatibility eliminates the need for preliminary testing, sensitivity testing and the body's response to its use. As medicine develops, we get an increasingly ideal product.

From what age is it used?

It is not advisable to use hyaluron injections at a young age, since it is already synthesized by the body in sufficient quantities. It makes sense to replenish it locally only when absolutely necessary.

Up to 30-40 years of age, it is optimal to use external cosmetics with hyaluronate for preventive purposes. At the same time, you need to remember about protection from UV radiation, the balance of water in the body and the absence of bad habits.

At 40-50, cosmetologists include periodic injections of the substance, subject to the availability of home care with hyaluron.

For people over 50 years of age, injections with this polysaccharide are indicated to replenish it. At the same time, cosmetics with hyaluronate are not the main therapeutic agent, but an auxiliary one, aimed at consolidating the result and maintaining it.

Preparing hyaluronic acid: what is the difference between preparations with hyaluronic acid

The half-life of hyaluronic acid in the skin is short and ranges from 12 to 24 hours, therefore, to prolong the effect of the drug in the tissues, it is necessary to properly process hyaluronic acid, which makes it stable and resistant to degradation factors. This process is called cross-linking of macromolecules and includes a corresponding transformation - cross-linking of hyaluronic acid chains, which gives it special physicochemical properties.

Hyaluronic acid preparations vary in the degree of cross-linking, giving the product different degrees of density and viscosity, as well as different binding abilities for water molecules. This variety allows you to choose the right drug for the type of treatment.

For example, drugs of different density are required to increase lip volume, correct facial contours, fill wrinkles and enlarge the labia. Thanks to the range of hyaluronic acid, we obtain a substance that, after implantation into the tissue, undergoes very slow degradation. Filling effects are visible depending on the drug and individual conditions for up to 18 months.

There are many drugs on the market, and new ones are registered every year. They differ from each other, among other things, in the concentration of hyaluronic acid, the degree of cross-linking and the morphology of the drug. These properties depend on the production technology and determine the viscosity, flexibility, ability to lift tissue, ability to bind water, and decomposition time in the tissues of the drug. The filler may be macroscopically homogeneous or molecular, resulting from a cross-linking technique.

Hyaluronic acid injection

MD Skin Solutions

Mesoline® rejuvenating meso-cocktail for face

An effective aesthetic medicine product designed to even out skin color.

Indications:

• Dark spots.
• Smoker's skin.
• Age-related changes (heterogeneity of skin color).
• Photoaging.

Main components:

• Ascorbic acid.
• Kojic acid.
• Phytic acid.
• Sodium pyruvate.
• White mulberry extract.

Results:

The meso cocktail whitens the skin, evens out the complexion, has a depigmenting effect, provides a rejuvenating effect, and prevents the appearance of age spots during other cosmetic procedures.

Mesoline® lifting effect

A cocktail of lifting and antioxidant ingredients to restore skin elasticity.

Indications:

• Skin without tone (loss of elasticity, ptosis).
• Face contour.
• Stretch marks.

Main components:

• DMAE.
• Coenzyme Q10.
• Silicon.
• Ferulic acid.

Results:

mesoline® PERSISTENT LIFTING stimulates the production of dermal collagen, improves the structure of collagen fibers, prevents sagging and provides a tightening effect. mesoline® PERSISTENT LIFTING eliminates stretch marks, reduces the area of ​​damaged skin, replenishing lost collagen.

Mesoline® SKIN RADIANCE

a rejuvenating, regenerating cocktail with a pronounced moisturizing effect.

Indications:

• Prevention of aging, starting from 30 years.
• Treatment of aging and damaged skin (dryness, wrinkles, loss of tone).

results

mesoline® SKIN RADIANCE improves tone, restores the firmness, brightness and elasticity characteristic of young skin.

mesoline® SKIN RADIANCE strengthens the skin's barrier function, prevents moisture loss and maintains a high level of hydration.

mesoline® SKIN RADIANCE promotes skin cell renewal thanks to the presence of a complex of growth factors.

Main components

• Hyaluronic acid.
• Complex of growth factors.
• DNA.
• Vitamins.
• Panthenol.

Mesoline® anti-cellulite effect and increase skin elasticity

A unique selection of ingredients for cellulite correction with draining and tightening effects. Activate microcirculation and increase skin tone.

Indications:

• Cellulite (orange peel effect).
• Loss of skin elasticity due to aging and weight fluctuations.
• Swelling/heaviness in the legs.

Main components:

• L-carnitine.
• Artichoke.
• Centella Asiatica.
• Butcher's broom.
• Organic silicon.
• Caffeine.

Results: stimulates the process of lipolysis: after the first correction sessions, a pronounced decrease in the “orange peel” effect is observed, the correction area looks smoother and slimmer due to the strong emulsifying properties of phosphatidylcholine. Activates drainage and detoxification, reduces swelling. Restores skin firmness and elasticity.

Mesoline® luxury hair

Indications:

• Hair loss, hormonal or hereditary.
• Hair loss associated with stress, fatigue or pregnancy.
• Baldness associated with hair dehydration.

Main components:

• Complex of hair growth factors.
• Coenzyme Q10.
• Hyaluronic acid.
• Copper peptide.

Results:

Mesotherapy with mesoline® LUXURIOUS HAIR supplies the hair matrix with the nutritional ingredients necessary for all phases of its growth cycle, significantly reducing hair loss and improving blood microcirculation in the hair follicle area.

How long does the effect last after the injection of hyaluronic acid?

As a result of processing hyaluronic acid, specialists obtain preparations with different densities. How long the acid will work depends on the crosslinking. The denser the drug, the slower it will dissolve.

The durability of HA is usually 6-12 months for denser acids and 3-6 for less dense ones. Pure hyaluronic acid lasts 1-2 days. Therefore, companies always indicate the density and retention period in the instructions.

It is necessary to explain what "retention period" means and differentiate between the retention of acid in the skin and the time at which the effects become visible. Hyaluronic acid, unlike other drugs, is immediately visible. Over time, it dissolves, so the effect seems to “melt away”. The process of HA degradation also depends on the personal predisposition of patients, age and lifestyle.

MesoEye C71™

Exclusive solution to aesthetic problems in the periorbital area:

• relief of manifestations of swelling and pastiness in the periorbital area;
• improving skin color, reducing the severity of dark circles under the eyes;
• increased turgor and skin tone in the periorbital area;
• smoothing the macro- and microrelief of the skin;
• reducing the severity of paraorbital hernias.

The mechanism of action of the drug is associated with the normalization of blood and lymph circulation, which prevents the occurrence of congestion in the periorbital area:

1. Normalization of local blood and lymph circulation - reducing microvascular spasm (suppressing the activity of angiotensin-converting enzyme), restoring the normal direction and intensity of blood and lymph flow, reducing the permeability of vascular cells. In total, all this prevents the occurrence of congestion in the periorbital area - direct lymphostimulating effect, reduction of arteriolar spasm, vasoprotection

2. Protection of collagen and elastin fibers, as well as other macromolecular components of the intercellular matrix from the formation of covalent cross-links as a result of glycation. This improves the mechanical properties of the skin (firmness, elasticity), which naturally leads to a reduction in the external manifestations of swelling, improved texture, etc. - improvement in the structural and functional state of the skin, revitalization, lifting.

3. Due to the presence of an opioid peptide (Hexapeptide-17), the drug has lipolytic activity, that is, it promotes a more active breakdown of lipids in subcutaneous adipose tissue - increased physiological liposis.

Compound:

MesoEye C71™ is a bioactive patented formula consisting of PeriOrbital Peptide XP2, Hexapeptide 17 and unstabilized hyaluronic acid of bioenzymatic origin in a composition with vitamins, microelements, amino acids, nucleic acids.

How safe is hyaluronic acid?

Pure hyaluronic acid is not used in aesthetic medicine. Only drugs with 20 mg of NA per 1 gram of drug, that is, a 2% solution, are recommended for use. The remainder is saline and excipients, including stabilizers and cross-linking agents.

Crosslinkers create bonds between chains, causing HA to dissolve more slowly. The advantage of crosslinking is that the acid will last longer. The disadvantage of the technique is that the base is cross-linked with chemicals. A high-quality product differs from natural acid by less than 1%, which ensures high safety of its use.

The most commonly used cross-linking process is 1,4-butanediol diglycidyl ether (BDDE), which breaks down in the human body. Independent studies to determine the unwanted effects of BDDE have proven that it is a completely safe product. The second substance used for these purposes is 1,1′-sulfonylbisetene or vinyl sulfate, but now it is used much less frequently. Together with additional substances, hyaluronic acid decomposes and is eliminated from the body naturally, without causing the formation of any metabolites dangerous to humans.

The safety of hyaluronic acid filler is guaranteed by the following certificates:

• ISO - a guarantee that the product is not toxic or mutagenic and should not cause hypersensitivity reactions;
• FDA is the American Food and Drug Administration, which is responsible for regulating foods, dietary supplements, drugs, cosmetics, medical devices, biological materials, and blood products in the United States. Its positive opinion, viewed worldwide, is an indicator of quality and confirmation of the absence of negative health effects of the product.

For these reasons, it is worth using drugs from well-known companies: only they guarantee the use of the best product in terms of quality and safety.

Hyaluronic acid formula

Meso-Xanthin F199™

A new generation injectable drug with an epigenetic focus for intensive prevention of photo- and chronoaging of the skin after 25 years.

Meso-Xanthin F199™ at the epigenetic level initiates processes aimed at repairing and maintaining the stability of the DNA nucleotide sequence under conditions of oxidative stress and aging; promotes mechanical stretching and “awakening” of fibroblasts, limiting collagen degradation, activation of productive processes, which leads to restoration of the structure of the cell matrix.

Meso-Xanthin F199™ “rejuvenates” skin cells, increases the “quality of life” of cells and their durability, provides physiological renewal of the skin, restores the antioxidant and immune potential of the skin.

Advantages:

1. A unique patented multicomponent injectable drug, the key component of which is the carotenoid Fucoxanthin, which has a powerful positive epigenetic effect on the proliferation and differentiation of progenitor precursor cells, on the DNA repair of its own stem cells damaged under oxidative stress and during the aging process.

2. “Meso-Xanthin F199™” is an effective specific (selective) EPIGENETIC regulator of gene expression that encodes the most important structural and functional proteins of skin cells

3. A reliable source of effective solutions to aesthetic problems and rehabilitation of the skin of patients with chronic dermatoses. (note, a wide range of applications for solving cosmetic problems and in the complex treatment of various chronic dermatoses. Symbiosis of cosmetology and dermatology).

4. The safety, effectiveness and reliability of Meso-Xanthin F199™ has been confirmed by numerous clinical and fundamental studies and many years of practical experience in different countries.

5. Used in women and men mainly after the age of 25 years.

Main components:

• Fucoxanthin (Fucoxanthin F-199)
• Hyaluronic Acid (molecular weight 3000 kDa, concentration 1.56%)
• growth factors (EGF; bFGF; IGF-2;);
• regulatory peptides (TRX; CG);
• vitamins (A; C; E);
• amino acids;
• nucleic acids;
• coenzymes.

Hyaluronic acid – how to choose?

When choosing hyaluronic acid, the rule usually works: the more expensive the product, the better it is. Of course, this is a simplified approach, but it can certainly be assumed that more expensive acids have a better purification and cross-linking process.

It is worth explaining that the division of hyaluronic acid into non-cross-linked, slightly cross-linked and highly cross-linked acid is sufficient for choosing a drug. Any other options, for example, HA for the area around the eyes or for filling wrinkles, are a marketing ploy. The doctor chooses the remedy precisely according to the density’s compliance with the goals set.

The drug must be certified because it is a medical item, just like a dental implant, a knee implant, or a breast implant. If there is no certificate, it means it is not hyaluronic acid, but who knows what.

An important indicator of the quality of hyaluronic acid are parameters indicating the degree of its purification, that is, the degree of removal of the cell walls of acid-forming bacteria. This is important because excess elements can cause allergic reactions. Parameters indicating how much bacterial debris remains in the acid should be found in the instructions or on the manufacturers’ website. Preparations can vary in degree of purification by up to ten times. The general rule is to choose drugs with bacterial residue levels below 10 U.

It is important to know how much cross-linking agent is in the preparation. This information is difficult to find, but it can determine the presence of complications. Doctors who practice procedures with hyaluronic acid already know in practice what to expect from a particular brand. For example, a drug may contain up to 9% BDDE, while other acids contain much less of this substance. More chemical products work longer, but using them in very visible areas is risky.

Finally, it should be remembered that since HA, despite its biocompatibility, is a foreign body, therefore not everyone can use it. To avoid complications, you need to choose the right drug, prepare for the procedure and take into account all contraindications and restrictions.

Differences in molecular weight

All liquid synovial fluid prostheses are divided into three groups based on molecular weight. Those in which it is as high as possible are considered more effective, since each of them has multiple intermolecular cross-links. Due to them, the medicine dissolves for a long time and during this entire time provides an analgesic, anti-inflammatory and wound-healing effect.

Lack of active movement in old age quickly worsens the symptoms of arthrosis. A simple experiment will show why this happens:

It is most promising today to treat arthrosis, regardless of its degree, with synthetic viscoprostheses. Due to their high molecular weight, such products, for example Noltrex, provide a long-lasting effect, and due to the polymer structure they have virtually no contraindications or side effects.

Cream mousse from

The product spreads easily due to its delicate texture. It is easily absorbed, leaving the skin matte and silky, so it is recommended for oily and combination skin. Suitable as a day or night option.

The cream contains additional antioxidants:

• seaweed extract;
• extract from aloe leaves;
• glucosamine

They prevent the formation of new wrinkles and reduce the depth of facial folds.

Products for aging skin prone to inflammation

Inflammation and post-acne are possible even after 30 years. Additionally, facial wrinkles and a decrease in overall skin tone occur.

Women with age-related problem skin should thoroughly cleanse their face with masks and compresses using pharmaceutical products.

Enterosgel

Enterosgel absorbs various toxins well. When applied to the skin, the product removes old epidermis and improves cellular respiration. The dermis cleansed in this way better absorbs beneficial substances from creams.

The anti-aging effect can be achieved after prolonged use of the paste. To do this, apply a thick layer of the product to a cleansed and preferably steamed face 2 times a week. Wash off the mask after 30-40 minutes.

Ichthyol ointment

Ichthyol ointment is an inexpensive remedy that is used to treat various inflammations. This effect is due to the presence of thiophene, which has a bactericidal effect on pathogenic bacteria. Ichthyol ointment cleanses pores and tightens the facial contour.

Mode of application:

1. Apply the ointment to clean skin.
2. Place a cotton cloth on top, which should be periodically moistened with water using a cotton pad.
3. Keep the compress on your face for an hour.
4. Rinse off with warm water.

Sulfuric ointment

Sulfur ointment reduces acne, cleanses pores, and lightens blemishes. The treatment will last a long time (about 2 months), since the product is allowed to be used only once every 7 days. After just a month, the skin will become radiant and elastic.

Apply a thin layer of sulfur ointment for half an hour. Then rinse off and use a non-greasy cream or gel.

Salicylic ointment peeling

Salicylic acid is found in most anti-acne cosmetics. The auxiliary component Vaseline moisturizes the skin. Salicylic ointment is ideal for aging oily dermis. It dries out inflammation and tightens pores. To get results, you need to apply the compress once a day for 10 days. It is recommended to take such a rejuvenating course 2 times a year.

Peeling with salicylic acid:

1. Wash your face with cleansing gel and apply a thin layer of salicylic ointment.
2. Cut a mask out of fabric with a cut over the eyes and apply it to the skin.
3. After 15-20 minutes, rinse with warm water.

Chlorophyllipt

The active ingredients (eucalyptus leaf extract and phytoncides) have rejuvenating, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects. For skin prone to oiliness and acne, it is recommended to use an alcohol solution.

They need to wipe their face daily for 10 days. For dry skin, an oil solution of Chlorophyllipt is recommended, which is applied pointwise to problem areas in the evening for a week. There is no need to rinse off the product.

Curiosin

Curiosin contains zinc chloride, hyaluronic acid and potassium sorbate. Together, they heal the face, eliminate inflammation, moisturize the deep layers of the dermis, which reduces existing wrinkles and prevents the appearance of new ones. With regular use of Curiosin, folds and creases are smoothed out.

This drug can be used in different ways:

• As a day and night cream.
• Mix with any cream in equal parts and apply the composition overnight.
• Apply in its pure form under the eyes and nasolabial folds at night for 10 days.
• In the form of a mask. Apply the gel to problem areas, leave for 2 minutes and apply moisturizer on top. Wash off after 20 minutes.

Zinc ointment

The active substance zinc is necessary for the regeneration of new cells and dries out acne. This product is recommended for use only on oily skin prone to breakouts. For dry types, zinc ointment will dry it out even more, and the wrinkles will become deeper.

The product should be applied locally once a day for a week.

Many pharmaceutical products help fight age-related changes. The anti-aging effect becomes noticeable after just a few weeks of regular use of the drugs. Most of them can replace expensive procedures in a beauty salon.

Vichy "Aqualia thermal"

The uniqueness of the presented creams is the presence of Vichy Spa thermal water, containing more than 15 minerals.

Due to its ability to penetrate all layers of the skin, it has the following properties:

• restores damaged tissue elements;
• provides protection of the dermis from the influence of external and internal adverse factors;
• relieves inflammation;
• prevents the appearance of acne;
• evens out facial tone;
• relieves irritation and signs of fatigue.

Manufacturers offer day and night versions of Aqualia Thermal cream.

Day spa ritual

The drug has a light texture that does not leave a filmy feeling after absorption. The cream is intended for sensitive, dry and normal skin. But its effectiveness is also noted by those with a mixed type.

The tool is capable of:

• smooth out unevenness;
• increase elasticity and firmness;
• improve color;
• make facial contours clearer, reducing sagging cheeks and chin;
• reduce the number of fine wrinkles;
• soothe irritated skin and relieve inflammation.

The cream does not clog pores and is a good base for makeup.

Night spa ritual

The thick consistency of the cream provides hydration, and the vegetable oils included in the composition nourish and soften the skin throughout the night. The face becomes smooth, peeling and signs of fatigue are eliminated. Women note that the cream does not lose its properties both in very hot weather and in severe frosts.

For lifting and improving skin tone

With age, the skin loses its elasticity, which negatively affects the contour of the face.

Some pharmaceutical products prevent sagging tissue, help eliminate wrinkles and give the skin a fresher appearance.

Methyluracil ointment

This is an immunomodulator that is used in the treatment of wounds, burns and various dermatitis. Although methyluracil ointment contains lanolin, it has recently begun to be used as an anti-aging agent.

To reduce wrinkles, the ointment is applied 2 times a day for 3 weeks.

Balm “Golden Star”

This balm can have a tightening effect on the skin of the face. "Golden Star" contains only natural ingredients.

The balm should be applied in a thin layer and left for 10 minutes. Rinse off with cool water. The procedure is allowed to be performed once a week for 2 months.

Before first use, you need to check for an allergic reaction on a small area of ​​skin.

Hydrocortisone ointment

Hydrocortisone ointment contains a glucocorticosteroid (hormone). It is believed that skin aging is associated with hormonal imbalance. When using hydrocortisone, the active substances penetrate the epidermis and retain moisture, which causes slight swelling, which smoothes out fine wrinkles.

The product is applied to the skin 2 times a day on problem areas for 1-2 weeks.

This medicine has many undesirable effects and contraindications, so it is recommended that you read the instructions first.