Restoring the lipid layer of the skin: everything you need to know about it

From this article you will learn:

• Why is it so important to restore the lipid layer of the skin?
• After what procedures is it necessary to restore the lipid layer of the skin?
• What to do to restore the lipid layer of facial skin
• Restoring the lipid layer of the skin with oil
• TOP 3 creams for restoring the lipid layer
• Salon procedures to restore the lipid layer of facial skin

Our skin requires reliable protection from viruses, bacteria, dehydration and many other factors that have a negative impact on it. Everyone knows that the protective function in this case is assigned to the lipid layer. When it is violated, the skin turns pale and appears neglected. In addition, wrinkles appear on it, and the person visually looks older than he really is. We will discuss in this article whether there are methods aimed at restoring the lipid layer.

Why is it so important to restore the lipid layer of the skin?

Human skin is a very complex and “wise” organ. The lowest layer is the hypodermis, consisting of adipose tissue that accumulates and retains water contained in body tissues. The next layer closer to the surface is the dermis, which has special cells that absorb moisture from the hypodermis like a sponge, and this water freely flows further upward, into the epidermis, all the way to the stratum corneum. It is the stratum corneum (corneocytes linked by fatty lipids) that is the outermost layer and at the same time a lipid barrier for the subsequent release of moisture to the outside, that is, its disappearance.

It turns out that if the lipid “cement” is injured, becomes thinner or even eliminated (for example, due to the effect of alkali in the form of soap on the skin), moisture, which is an integral part of healthy, elastic and radiant skin, evaporates through the loose scales of the stratum corneum.

As a result, the following visible problems on the face arise:

• looseness;
• loss of skin elasticity;
• desquamation;
• obvious dehydration of the skin;
• dryness of the stratum corneum;
• small wrinkles.

In addition, through the injured lipid layer, various bacteria, toxins, etc. can enter the skin, which cause irritations such as:

• eczema;
• dermatitis;
• blackheads

The composition of the lipid layer includes free fatty acids (mostly oleic and linoleic), ceramides (content in the skin up to 50%) and cholesterol. There are various reasons that can “break through” this “cement”.

How to determine whether your skin is dry or has lost moisture

Objectively, dehydration (dehydration) is characterized by an imbalance of fat and water balance, insufficiency of the sebaceous and sweat glands, and a shift in pH to the alkaline side. Problem skin is susceptible to external irritants - cold, ultraviolet radiation, heat, wind.

Characteristic symptoms of dehydration:

• feeling of tightness;
• dull shade;
• redness;
• areas of peeling on the face;
• narrowed skin pores;
• dullness;
• roughness.

With dry facial skin, the lipid barrier on the surface of the epidermis is very thin. It weakly protects fabrics from the negative effects of the environment. Therefore, with dehydration, the following often occur:

• red spots;
• peeling scales;
• cracks in the corners of the eyes;
• rashes.

It is very simple to independently identify signs of dehydrated skin: if pale spots do not disappear for a long time when pressing on the face, this means that there is little moisture in the skin.
A sufficient level of moisture is a key condition for the normal functioning of the dermis and epidermis. The liquid provides nutrition to epidermal cells and synthesis of structural proteins. Without this, the skin begins to fade, small wrinkles and areas of peeling appear on the face.

The degree of hydration depends on two factors:

• condition of the outer layer of the epidermis.
• sebum content in surface layers.

Dead cells together with sebum form a protective layer that prevents moisture evaporation and dehydration of the facial skin.

After what procedures is it necessary to restore the lipid layer of the skin?

The effects of ultraviolet radiation, radiation and other negative environmental factors can lead to the formation of free radicals in the skin, as well as lipid peroxidation.

Causes of lipid layer disorders:

1. Using low-quality soap or products for washing, or washing with hot water.
2. Abuse of sunbathing and solarium.
3. Temperature changes (for example, frequent transition from a frosty street to a very warm room).
4. Physiological stress (excessively drying the face with a towel after washing can disrupt the process of lipid formation).

Skin color measurements

Measurements of skin color characteristics are based on the absorption and reflection of light. This group of methods is useful in studying processes associated with skin photoaging and in developing skin lightening products (Figure 6).

Rice. 6. Methods for measuring skin color characteristics. A – chromametry, B – mexametry (from G. Timofeev, Methods of instrumental research of human skin, “Cosmetics and Medicine”, No. 4, 2005)

Mexametry measures the amount of melanin in the skin and the degree of erythema. The measurement principle is based on the skin's absorption of light of different wavelengths: in the red, green and infrared regions of the spectrum. The wavelength is selected so that it corresponds to the maximum absorption of melanin and hemoglobin. The third component is used to correct for other pigments, including bilirubin. Light sources and receivers are positioned to ensure that only light reflected from the skin is measured, eliminating interference from background lighting. Melanin levels are measured to determine the effectiveness of whitening products and sunscreen cosmetics. The method is also used to characterize erythema and inflammatory processes.

Chromametry is based on the human eye's perception of hue, brightness and color saturation. Based on numerous experiments, scientists have identified color matching functions as well as a universal color space that represents the visible colors of the average person. According to the color space system recommended for assessing skin color by the Commission Internationale l'Eclairage (CIE), each color corresponds to a numerical characteristic L*a*b*, where L* is the brightness of the color on the gray scale (0–100), a* – balanced value between red and green colors, b* – balance between yellow and blue colors. The a* value scale describes skin pigmentation and vascularization well. The b* value scale describes well the change in the intensity of skin pigmentation. This method for assessing erythema and pigmentation is less effective compared to the mexametry method, but chromametry allows one to evaluate the antioxidant effect of cosmetics.

What to do to restore the lipid layer of facial skin

Cleansing

Restoring the lipid layer must begin with washing. Read in detail the characteristics of your cleanser; perhaps it is the main reason for the destruction of the stratum corneum. All cosmetics that come into contact with the skin should act very gently on the epidermis.

To reduce the likelihood of irritation, it is recommended to wash your face with a cleanser no more than twice a day, since the action of the active substances included in its composition, even if they are very gentle, is aimed at removing skin impurities and does not distinguish between used and protective oils or sweat and skin moisture. The cleansing preparation should come into contact with the lipid layer of the face for a very short time, then it must be washed off without leaving any traces.

Today, water in cities is a big problem. It often contains substances that have a negative effect on injured skin. Consequently, during the peak of sensitivity and irritability of the epidermis, it will be better to wash with specialized purchased water or floral water obtained by steam distillation from fragrant herbs and flowers.

Skin nutrition

To ensure restoration of the lipid layer, it needs to be “patched” with something. For this purpose, lipid particles are used both in the form of pure oils and in combination with other components in cosmetics. Lipid molecules pass into the intercellular spaces and are embedded in the lipid barrier. The fat particles applied on top move smoothly, reaching the living layers of the skin, and join the cellular metabolism. They may also be the basis for future lipid synthesis, which is characteristic of the stratum corneum of the skin.

Very often, to provide cells with “building material” and restore their functioning, various oils are used that contain essential fatty acids (linoleic and gamma-linolenic).

Skin hydration

Restoring the epidermal layer is one of the options for moisturizing dry skin. This method is very slow and takes time. Restoration of the lipid layer is the limitation of moisture evaporation through the stratum corneum. You can do it differently: moisten the stratum corneum directly or cover it with a damp film. There is another option for restoring the skin: increasing blood flow in the vessels of the dermis and, as a result, increasing the flow of moisture into the epidermis.

These three stages are necessary to restore the lipid layer of the skin.

Today, moisturizing components are becoming increasingly popular - natural substances that form a film filled with moisture on the skin. These products include hyaluronic acid, chitosan, β-glucan from baker's yeast, protein hydrolysates (collagen or wheat protein). It is not recommended to use Vaseline and other heavy oils to moisturize and restore the lipid layer of the skin, as they form a waterproof film on the skin, which also does not allow air to pass through.

Recommended articles on the topic:

• How to shape a facial contour: all possible ways
• How to remove wrinkles on the face: the most effective methods
• Microcurrent facial therapy - a beneficial treatment for your skin

Peretta Lorraine

Head of Nutrition Science, International Institute of Anti-Aging, UK

How to retain moisture in the skin? A question that is relevant not only for skin, which is commonly called dry. The problem of lack of water exists in seborrheic skin with increased sebum secretion and xerotic skin with sebum deficiency, in atonic sagging skin and skin with wrinkles. The reasons that led to a decrease in the level of water in the skin in these very different conditions will also be different. Therefore, there is not and cannot be a general solution, and in each specific case the skin moisturizing program will be different.

And yet, there is a product on the market that can be called universal and that will fit into any hydration program, regardless of the reasons that caused the imbalance of water balance - this is the nutraceutical drug SKIN AQUA LOCK from the Advanced Nutrition ProgramTM line, developed by the International Institute of Ani-Aging (IIAA, UK). In this article we will talk about the mechanisms of action of this wonderful drug and provide evidence of its clinical effectiveness. But before we move on to discussing the product itself, let's say a few words about water balance and the mechanisms of its regulation.

What is skin water balance and how is it regulated?

The issue of skin hydration cannot be considered in isolation from the issue of water balance in the whole body. In order for it to be maintained, it is necessary to ensure a balance between the flow of water into the body and its removal. The skin plays a very noticeable role in this: almost a quarter of all water entering the body is excreted through it, and in this regard it is in second place after the kidneys. This means that the water in the skin is in constant motion and is renewed all the time, but at the same time a certain volume of water must be maintained in the skin at each moment. This is what is called the water balance of the skin: on the one hand, the constant presence of water in it in the required quantity, on the other, its continuous change.

The skin independently maintains this balance with the help of various water-regulating and water-retaining systems, and if they fail, the skin begins to lose moisture. Therefore, the task of moisturizing the skin is not to bring in an additional amount of water, but to provide conditions for the normal operation of its own mechanisms for regulating water balance - if they are disturbed, the skin will not be able to retain this water, and if not disturbed, then the water The skin does not need more than normal.

We will not go into a detailed analysis of all the water-regulating mechanisms that the skin has. Let us note only two that are currently well studied and which can be successfully restored using cosmetology methods. One of them relates to the mechanisms that ensure the movement of water and its change in the epidermis, the other - to the mechanisms that maintain the required level of water in the living layers of the skin.

Lipid barrier of the stratum corneum and control of water movement

The epidermis does not have its own microcirculation and in this regard is completely dependent on the dermal layer. But in order for water to flow into it from the dermis, and with it various substances necessary for the cells, there must be a driving force that would direct the water towards the epidermis. This driving force is the outflow of water through the uppermost layer of the epidermis - the stratum corneum. At the surface of the skin, water evaporates, and this evaporation ensures the continuous movement of water through the epidermis. This process is called transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

TEWL has nothing to do with the evaporation of water through the sweat glands. Its main mission is to create a driving force for the active flow of water into the epidermis.

Structure and functioning of the lipid barrier

The movement of water in the stratum corneum occurs through the intercellular spaces, since this is impossible directly through the dense horny scales filled with keratin (Fig. 1A). But the path between the scales cannot be called so free, because it runs through a heterogeneous structure, which is known as a lipid barrier . The lipid barrier consists of numerous lipid sheets that are parallel to each other over large areas and do not intersect (Fig. 1B). Water moves along the lipid layers along the narrow water layers separating them (Fig. 1B). This movement is a simple diffusion of water molecules along a concentration gradient from a place where there is a lot of water (living layers of the epidermis) to where there is less of it (atmospheric air).

If the structure of lipid layers changes as a result of a change in composition or their physical destruction occurs, then it becomes easier for water to move, and it reaches the surface of the skin faster and evaporates in greater quantities. This can be “seen” using a tewameter - a special device that measures the speed and volume of water vapor at the surface of the skin.

In its structure, each individual lipid layer of the stratum corneum is similar to the classical cell membrane, which forms the shell of a living cell and intracellular organelles (nucleus, mitochondria, endoplasmic reticulum, lysosomes, exosomes, endosomes). The lipid layer, like the cell membrane, consists of two layers of polar lipids. A polar lipid is an elongated molecule with a hydrophilic head and a hydrophobic tail (Fig. 1B). In water, such molecules begin to group in such a way that their “heads” face the water, and their “tails,” on the contrary, are hidden from the water. The lipid bilayer is just one of the structures that can provide this.

But if the general plan of the lipid layer and the cell membrane is the same (lipid bilayer), then in composition they are completely different. The basis of the cell membrane is phospholipids. In lipid layers, instead of phospholipids, ceramides are present. In addition to ceramides, they contain free fatty acids and cholesterol. All three components are taken in equal proportions (Fig. 1D). If this proportion changes, for example, as a result of a deficiency of one of the components or the appearance of extraneous lipids that are not characteristic of the lipid barrier, then the parallelism of the layers in extended areas is disrupted. Gaps appear in them, which are immediately filled with water, and the speed of water movement through the stratum corneum increases (TEWL index increases).

Restoring the barrier and correcting dry skin

As a result, the water level in the stratum corneum may decrease, which clinically manifests itself as symptoms of dry skin (Fig. 2):

• fine wrinkles;
• visible peeling;
• feeling of tightness;
• irritability.

Dry skin can be helped by restoring its lipid barrier. For example, ensure prompt supply of barrier lipids using topical agents from the outside or nutraceutical products from the inside.

Option number 1: topical application

The effectiveness of topical application of ceramides to restore and strengthen the lipid barrier has been confirmed in many laboratory and clinical studies [1–3]. Today there are many drugs on the market that contain ceramides, as well as cholesterol and free fatty acids. For the most part, these are good products, but they only work on the areas where they are applied. Nutraceuticals do not have this limitation, so if the problem concerns the entire skin, for example, in diseases, then the oral method of delivering ceramides to the skin would be preferable.

Option #2: Oral administration

This is confirmed by studies of the bioavailability of ceramides when taken orally. For example, Ueda O. et al. observed the distribution of radioactively labeled ceramides in the body and found that by the 7th day from the start of administration, their concentration in the skin reached its peak (see table) [4].

Table. When taken orally, ceramides accumulate in the epidermis [4]

Note. Rats, oral administration of 3H-ceramides at a dose of 30 mcg/kg.

Studies have shown a high level of safety for oral administration of ceramides at recommended doses [5, 6]. Contraindications to use may include diseases of the pancreas and liver, as well as individual intolerance.

Hyaluronic acid and water maintenance

Hyaluronic acid (HA) forms the water-gel base of the extracellular matrix, in which both cells and extracellular structures are immersed in all organs and tissues. HA has exceptional hygroscopicity - one of its high-molecular chains can bind up to 1000 water molecules. Thanks to this, living tissues are saturated with moisture and their cells can function normally in an aquatic environment.

Localization and circulation of HA in the body

HA is present wherever there are living cells. But some organs are characterized by a high content of HA - these are joints, eyeball, glands and skin. Moreover, in the skin, HA is present in both the dermis and epidermis (Fig. 3) [7]. There is no HA in the stratum corneum, since there are no living cells there, and the intercellular spaces are filled with a lipid barrier.

The HA fractions in the dermal and epidermal layers are independent of each other: in the dermis, HA is produced by fibroblasts, in the epidermis - by keratinocytes. These same cells destroy HA within their layers. It must be said that the circulation of HA in the body occurs very intensively. In a person weighing 70 kg, the total amount of HA is approximately 15 g. At the same time, a third of this amount (5 g) is destroyed and re-synthesized daily. The question arises: why does our body spend so much energy on destroying and then resynthesizing high molecular weight HA? The answer lies in the role played by the GC. High-molecular chains form the habitat for cells, but low-molecular fragments are signaling substances that are detected by different cells and cause a cellular response.

The process of destruction and synthesis of HA is balanced. An imbalance towards degradation leads to a decrease in the amount of hyaluronic acid in the skin. After 60 years, the level of HA in the skin decreases by almost half compared to what it was at 40 years of age (Fig. 4) [8]. Clinically, this is manifested by the appearance of deep wrinkles, creases, decreased turgor, sagging - all these signs are inherent in dehydrated skin (Fig. 5).

Ways to compensate for HA deficiency

How to compensate for BG deficiency? There are several options.

Option No. 1: injection

This is a truly effective way to correct dehydration of the deep layers. However, it has one significant drawback - it injures the barrier, therefore, if the barrier is weak and the skin is dry, it either cannot be used at all, or must be used extremely carefully and rarely.

Option number 2: topical application

It has virtually no contraindications, which is why today there are a large number of different cosmetics with HA on the market. But this option is not omnipotent and cannot help in all cases of impaired skin water balance. And that's why.

High molecular weight HA (hHA) will not pass through a physically intact barrier under any conditions,

therefore, there is no need to talk about compensation for HA deficiency in the skin with this method of application. However, HA will be beneficial because it will form a moist protective film on the surface of the skin. And if you apply a cream on top of this film, for example one of those that we have already talked about, then we will prevent rapid drying and maintain comfortable freshness.

Low molecular weight HA fragments (nHA) can pass through very dry, cracked stratum corneum. But they are unlikely to reach the dermis, since along the way they will be captured by keratinocytes and used by them for their own needs. What is actually useful in terms of improving wound healing if there are cuts and abrasions on the skin. However, there is also no talk of correcting skin dehydration.

Therefore, cosmetic products with HA are recommended for:

• rapid superficial hydration of dry skin;
• healing of damaged skin (including after traumatic cosmetic procedures - peeling, microdermabrasion, fractional photo- and RF-thermolysis).

Option #3: Oral administration

In the large intestine, microorganisms break down HA into oligosaccharides consisting of several units, and in this form it is absorbed through the intestinal wall and distributed throughout the body [9]. But in some organs the concentration of HA is higher - these are the joints, eyeball, glands and skin. Therefore, HA that enters the body through ingestion will accumulate in them, which was confirmed in experiments with radioactively labeled HA [10]. The result of one such experiment is shown in Fig. 6. On it, the places where HA accumulates are colored blue. The skin (indicated by the number 23) is one of these locations [11].

Since HA is broken down anyway, it makes sense to use a low-molecular fraction of 1–5 kDa in nutraceuticals—in this form, HA is absorbed faster.

In the skin, HA interacts with fibroblast and keratinocyte receptors, stimulating the production of extracellular matrix components. In the dermal layer these are structural proteins (collagen, elastin, fibronectin) and vHA, in the epidermis - mainly vHA, which seems to envelop the cells, forming the so-called “hyaluronic coat”. It is necessary not only for water retention, but also for the migration of keratinocytes to the surface of the skin during their differentiation. A lack of HA in the epidermis contributes to impaired keratinization and, as a consequence, leads to insufficient barrier function and the development of symptoms of dry skin.

Side effects after ingestion of hyaluronic acid occur, but are rare. First, you need to remember that hyaluronic acid turns water into a gel. If the body is dehydrated or if a person is taking diuretics, then when taking hyaluronan orally, he may experience a severe headache as a result of increased blood pressure. This occurs more often in women who inadvertently took a double dose of a diuretic and, after taking a hyaluronic supplement, “received” a hypertensive crisis. Fortunately, this can be avoided. Patients with high blood pressure can only take small doses of hyaluronic acid, no more than 150 mg per day, and they should remember to drink more water. Although many people with hypertension take hyaluronic acid supplements and do not experience any problems. You just need to remember that if you take hyaluronic acid orally, you need to drink more. Water plus hyaluronan is a combination that always works.

There is a category of patients for whom taking hyaluronic nutritional supplements is contraindicated. These are people suffering from lymphedema - tissue swelling caused by lymphostasis. In this pathology, the lymph nodes are filled with fragments of hyaluronan, which is destroyed by the tumor, resulting in blocked lymphatic drainage. Persistent swelling of the lower extremities develops, and additional administration of hyaluronic acid will aggravate the problem.

It may be that oral hyaluronic acid should be avoided by those with rheumatoid arthritis, which accounts for just under 5% of all arthritis cases. The classic symptoms of morning joint stiffness in people suffering from this condition are caused by autoimmune degradation of hyaluronan during sleep. Upon awakening, patients feel that their joints do not bend because they are filled with fragmented hyaluronic acid. After they disperse and circulation is restored, the stiffness disappears.

An absolute contraindication to taking hyaluronic nutraceuticals is oncology, but if a person has overcome it and is in remission for a long time, then this restriction is lifted. You should also remember about individual intolerance - with regard to GC it is extremely rare, but still such a possibility exists.

Hyaluronic nutraceuticals are universal in terms of correcting water balance - they are suitable for correcting both dryness and dehydration, although it is best if they are combined with topical or injection methods, respectively.

Composition of SKIN AQUA LOCK

Attention to layout! take out to the fields closer to this section:

Nutraceuticals have several significant advantages over all other methods of delivering substances needed by the skin.

1. They deliver the necessary building materials to the skin in the most easily digestible form .
2. They supply the entire skin with necessary substances, and not just selected areas on the body or individual skin layers.
3. At the same time, they supply other organs and tissues - in many cases this is an additional benefit.

The nutraceutical product SKIN AQUA LOK is a soft capsule coated with an opaque shell made of high-quality fish gelatin and glycerin. The red-brown color and characteristic smell of the shell are given by natural dyes - beta-carotene and caramel. The capsule shell is not just a dosing “package” for active substances. This is protection against oxidation and photodegradation, which is especially important in cases where the active substances are chemically unstable.

Substances that require enhanced protection include unsaturated fatty acids that are part of phytoceramides - one of the components of the active SKIN AQUA LOCK complex. The second active component of the drug is low molecular weight hyauronic acid (nHA) . From the point of view of production technology, these substances are not so easy to combine, because phytoceramides are soluble in fats, and hyaluronic acid is in water. And yet, IIAA technologists managed to create a stable product that remains active for two years.

The choice of active ingredients was not accidental, because both of these substances are involved in maintaining the water balance of the skin. True, as mentioned above, they work in different areas of the skin’s water-regulating system and are responsible for different processes. But if a failure occurs somewhere in a single system, other links may also suffer. Therefore, preventive and restoration measures must be comprehensive and concern not only the initial “breakdown”, but also the entire system.

Phytoceramides from wheat oil

The source of phytoceramides was wheat germ. Phytoceramides are extracted and then stabilized using a patented technology that allows these substances to be preserved in the form of the Lipowheat® complex, which became part of the SKIN AQUA LOCK nutraceutical product.

Among the extracted phytoceramides, the fraction in which linoleic acid acts as the fatty acid tail is an essential unsaturated fatty acid belonging to the omega-6 family. In the epidermis, keratinocytes cut off linoleic acid from phytoceramide and attach it to another “head” - sphingosine, thus obtaining the version of the ceramide molecule it needs. In fact, phytosphingosine serves as a building material for the synthesis of its own ceramides, which will be part of the lipid barrier.

It should be noted that, in addition to phytoceramides, the Lipowheat® complex includes another class of compounds that is very beneficial for the skin - digalactosyl diglycerides. They have been shown to enhance fibronectin synthesis by fibroblasts, improving skin elasticity [12].

At the moment, an extensive evidence base has been accumulated confirming the positive effects of the Lipowheat® complex on the skin when taken orally.

Thus, in one of the recent studies its effect on aging skin was studied. A double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled clinical trial was conducted on 64 healthy women aged 45 to 60 years. The study lasted 20 weeks, including 12 weeks of oral administration and 8 weeks of observation. Wrinkles in the crow's feet area were assessed using the Lemperle scale. Skin hydration was measured using a corneometer, and roughness and radiance were determined by clinical evaluation. Collagen content was measured in biopsies of UV-irradiated skin in three groups: 1) without Lipowheat®, 2) after Lipowheat®, and 3) after placebo. The results obtained indicate that, for all measured parameters, the skin condition of volunteers taking Lipowheat® was significantly better than in the other two groups [13].

The successful treatment of photodamaged skin using a wheat germ extract standardized for glucoceramides is also reported in the article by Son DJ et al. [14]. In addition to improving the texture and level of hydration of the stratum corneum, the authors found an inhibitory effect on matrix metalloproteinase 1 (MMP-1), which was activated after UV irradiation. This is probably due to the preventive effect of the drug against degradation of the dermal matrix.

An increase in the density of the dermal matrix as a result of taking Lipowheat® was also reported in a study conducted by the developers of this product. 10 women participated in it, and in all of them, after 12 weeks from the start of taking the drug, ultrasound scanning revealed an increase in the echogenicity of the dermal layer (Fig. 7) [15].

A statistically significant increase in the level of skin hydration as a result of oral intake of phytoceramides from wheat germ extract is also reported in the article by Guillou S. et al. [16]. The study involved 51 women aged 20–63 years with dry and very dry (xerotic) skin. They were divided into two groups: one took the test drug, the other took a placebo. After 3 months, corneometric analysis of the skin on the lower legs, arms and face was carried out, as well as a clinical evaluation, which showed a decrease in visible peeling and skin irritation in the group taking the drug.

Hyaluronic acid

SKIN AQUA LOC contains nGAs up to 5 kDa in size of microbiological origin of a high degree of purification (Hyal Star® product) [17]. Today it is believed that this fraction is best absorbed [18]. Thus, in the work of Kawada C. et al. a statistically significant moisturizing effect of hyaluronic food additives on the stratum corneum was shown [19], while this effect was more pronounced in lower molecular weight fragments [20].

Clinical studies by Göllner I. et al. confirmed an increase in the level of hydration of the stratum corneum, a reduction in wrinkles, improved elasticity and a decrease in roughness as a result of taking hyaluronic acid [21].

Clinical studies SKIN AQUA LOCK

A prospective study of the effectiveness of SKIN AQUA LOK was conducted with the participation of 12 volunteers (1 man and 11 women) aged 30–61 years. For 12 weeks they took 1 capsule. Measurements were carried out before the start of the experiment and at the end of 12 weeks using CK electronic equipment (Germany). Instrumental assessment showed changes in skin parameters:

• moisture content increased by 64%;
• TEW index - decreased by 20%;
• depth of wrinkles - decreased by 28%;
• roughness - decreased by 20%.

The first two parameters reflect an improvement in barrier function and the ability of the stratum corneum to regulate water flows. Against this background, the immune status of the skin was normalized, as shown in the photograph demonstrating a decrease in skin redness (Fig. 8).

Smoothing wrinkles (Fig. 9) and reducing the roughness of the skin surface change its light reflecting properties - the skin acquires a beautiful shine and radiance (Fig. 10).

Recommendations for use

Indications:

• dry atopic skin;
• dry sebum-deficient skin;
• dry seborrheic skin;
• skin after damaging cosmetic procedures;
• atonic and loose skin;
• deep wrinkles.

Contraindications:

• oncology;
• lymphedema;
• rheumatoid arthritis;
• pregnancy, lactation;
• arterial hypertension;
• taking diuretics;
• individual intolerance to individual components.

Recommended dose: 1 capsule per day, during meals and with water.

The nutraceutical product SKIN AQUA LOK can be used both independently and in a comprehensive program for correcting the water balance of the skin, combined with topical and injection products (Fig. 11).

The article was published in the journal “Cosmetics and Medicine” No. 2-2020

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12. Bizot V., Cestone E., Michelotti A., et al. Improving skin hydration and age-related symptoms by oral administration of wheat glucosylceramides and digalactosyl diglycerides: a human clinical study. Cosmetics 2017; 4(4): 37.
13. Boisnic S., Keophiphath M., Serandour A.-L., et al. Polar lipids from wheat extract oil improve skin damages induced by aging: Evidence from a randomized, placebo-controlled clinical trial in women and an ex vivo study on human skin explant. J Cosmet Dermatol 2019; 18(6): 2027–2036.
14. Son D., Jung JC, Choi YM, et al. Wheat Extract Oil (WEO) Attenuates UVB-induced photoaging via collagen synthesis in human keratinocytes and hairless mice. Nutrients 2020; 12(2): 300.
15. Branchet C. Evaluation of the anti-aging effect of Lipowheat™ oil in a normal human skin maintained in survival conditions, 2014 (company's data).
16. Guillou S., Ghabri S., Jannot C., et al. The moisturizing effect of a wheat extract food supplement on women's skin: a randomized, double-blind placebo-controlled trial. Int J Cosmet Sci 2011; 33(2): 138–143.
17. Placebo Controlled Clinical Evaluation of the Antiaging Efficacy of a Food Supplement. CompLife Italia Srl., 2022. Hyal Star E.HU.016-0045.01.0021_2018/3249.
18. Fallacara A., Baldini E., Manfredini S., et al. Hyaluronic acid in the third millennium. Polymers (Basel) 2018; 10(7): 701.
19. Kawada C., Yoshida T., Yoshida H., et al. Ingested hyaluronan moisturizes dry skin. Nutr J 2014; 13:70.
20. Kawada C., Kimura M., Masuda Y., et al. Oral administration of hyaluronan prevents skin dryness and epidermal thickening in ultraviolet irradiated hairless mice. J Photochem Photobiol B 2015; 153:215–221.
21. Göllner I., Voss W., von Hehn U., et al. Ingestion of an oral hyaluronan solution improves skin hydration, wrinkle reduction, elasticity, and skin roughness: results of a clinical study. J Evid Based Complement Altern Med 2017; 22(4): 816–823.

Restoring the lipid layer of the skin with oil

Borage oil

Borage seeds contain up to 33% oil rich in gamma-linolenic acid (GLA). As a result, this product has unique restorative properties. It is necessary to use it for dry and aging skin, and also as a dietary supplement that strengthens the structure of the skin and hair.

Evening primrose oil

“Evening primrose” is the English translation of the name of the plant whose flowers bloom just before sunset. Evening primrose seeds are rich in 65 to 80% linoleic acid and 8 to 14% gamma-linolenic acid. The oil has high restorative properties, therefore it is very effective in the treatment of skin diseases (used both externally and as a dietary supplement). Activates nail growth and is used as a softening and moisturizing component in cosmetics.

Black currant oil

Blackcurrant oil is famous for its high content of linoleic and gamma-linolenic acids in an ideal 1:1 ratio. The amount of GLA in the dermal layer affects the integrity of the epidermal barrier and the ability of the lipid layer to retain moisture. This oil is part of therapeutic and preventive preparations, helping to restore the appearance of dry and aging skin. This remedy is a necessary component of anti-aging therapy.

Rosehip oil

Rosehip oil is quite oily in its properties. It is extracted from the seeds of wild roses (bush climbing roses). For medical purposes it is used to treat cuts and more quickly restore injured tissue. The high content of linoleic acid determines the antiseptic properties of the oil. Included in body care products intended for normal, dry and damaged skin; Helps restore weakened, thinning hair. Accelerates the healing of minor wounds and scratches.

Macadamia oil

Macadamia oil contains a large amount of triglycerols, stearic (about 60%) and palmitic (21%) acids, as well as vitamins B and PP. Maintains the water balance of the skin, easily penetrates its upper layers, making it soft and moisturized.

Soybean oil

The high content of sitosterol, tocopherols and essential fatty acids gives this oil the following characteristics: it has obvious regenerating properties, ensures the restoration of the epidermal lipid barrier and increases the ability of the lipid layer of the skin to retain moisture.

Cacao butter

This oil contains stearic, palmitic, oleic and linolenic acids. It has a healing and soothing effect, recommended for use for dry, sensitive, delicate skin. All of the above oils help very well in restoring the lipid layer.

The procedure for removing makeup and cleansing the skin of the face, which must be followed when choosing a specific oil for this procedure:

1. Apply a few drops of oil to your face and neck.
2. Rub the skin with light circular movements along the massage lines for two to three minutes.
3. Soak a towel in warm water. The water should not be too hot, but much warmer than for daily washing. Wring out the towel firmly and place it on your face and neck.
4. Hold the compress on your face for 10 seconds, and then carefully wipe the skin with a warm towel along the massage lines.
5. Rinse the towel, then wet it again with hot water and repeat the procedure again. Continue these steps until all traces of oil are removed from the skin. Typically it takes three to four times.
6. After completing all cleansing procedures, you can rinse your face with cool water.

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Secrets of moisturizing different skin types

When choosing products for dehydrated skin, you need to take into account many factors - the cause of dehydration, age, and the severity of cosmetic problems. The effectiveness of the procedures depends on the regular use of caring cosmetics.

Dry

To combat skin dehydration, temporarily avoid exfoliating products. They injure the epidermis and thin the hydrolipid mantle. To fix the problem, you need to:

• Avoid alkaline tonics and lotions. When dehydrated, the pH of the skin shifts to the alkaline side. To normalize the balance, cosmetics with alkali are replaced with lotions with a neutral pH level.
• Take steam baths for the face once every 3 days. Hot steam stimulates the expansion of pores and the functioning of the sebaceous glands. To steam, you need to hold your face over the steam for 3-5 minutes. As a liquid, use decoctions of thyme, nettle, chamomile, oregano, and sage.
• Refresh your face with a spray based on thermal water. The procedure is recommended to be carried out in summer on hot days. Regular hydration prevents dehydration.

If you take care of your face regularly, the protective layer of the epidermis will be restored. This will reduce the skin's sensitivity to external irritants.

Fat

To restore oily skin you need:

• Use serums with hygroscopic hydrants once every 2 days;
• wash with cold boiled water;
• Apply water-based moisturizers morning and evening;
• take vitamin-mineral complexes with B vitamins.

During treatment, you must completely abstain from wearing decorative cosmetics and drinking alcohol.

Combined

The following will help restore the elasticity and youthfulness of your facial skin:

• Moisturizing compresses. Every day before bed for 15-20 minutes. Gauze soaked in glycerin or linseed oil is applied to the face.
• Film-forming creams. Peeling areas on the face are treated with baby cream to which aloe juice, honey or glycerin are added.
• Applications of medicinal herbs. Chamomile, parsley or thyme are chosen as the base component. 5-7 tbsp. l. Boil the herbs in water for 10 minutes. The lightly squeezed herb is wrapped in gauze and applied to the face for half an hour.

The regularity of procedures depends on the degree of dehydration. If necessary, compresses and applications are made every other day for 2 weeks.

TOP 3 creams for restoring the lipid layer

1. A nnemarie Borlind is a fluid with ceramides.

This cream has a light texture and is suitable for all skin types. You can use it as a serum. It has practically no calming properties; the main emphasis is on strengthening and restoration.

Approximate cost: from 3500 rub.

1. D ado Sens – soothing emergency cream.

The composition contains soothing and healing components such as allantoin, panthenol, licorice extract, magnesium, bisabolol, black currant oil, ceramides-3, ceramides-6, yeast extract for problem skin.

Cost: from 1000 rub.

1. D ado Sens is an anti-aging fluid cream with ectoine.

This fluid with ectoine is an excellent replacement for the AnneMarie Borlind fluid. They are identical in smell and texture, although this manufacturer does not use fragrances at all. As a result, the fluid can also be used for sensitive skin.

Cream with ectoine is aimed at restoring the lipid skin barrier and has anti-aging properties.

Components: ectoine, ceramides, isoflavones, silicon.

Ectoin strengthens the skin and protects it from the harmful effects of the external environment, and prepares it for frosty air. Isoflavones from iris and clover increase elasticity. Silicon strengthens connective tissue. Ceramides help in restoring dehydrated, irritated skin.

Cost: from 1200 rub.

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Assessment of skin relief changes

The topography of the skin depends on the moisture content of the skin and the state of the connective tissue fibers of the dermis, and is an important marker of aging. Therefore, the methods described below can be effectively used to confirm the effectiveness of anti-aging cosmetics.

One common method is the analysis of silicone skin replicas (impressions) using mechanical or optical profilometers. This way you can determine the density of wrinkles, their length and depth. The first stage is preparing silicone and then applying it to the skin area. After taking an impression, the relief surface is scanned, digitized and the data obtained is analyzed. Optical profilometry is based on the analysis of replicas (casts) made using optical profilometers. Light emanating from a source of parallel radiation is passed through the silicone impression. This light is recorded by a special photodetector. Using the software, a 3D image of the skin surface is modeled, and various indicators of its relief are calculated: roughness, smoothness, wrinkling. The disadvantages of the method are the occurrence of errors, as well as the duration of the replica manufacturing process.

Currently, the method of analyzing skin images obtained directly using high-resolution digital cameras - visioscopes or dermatoscopes - has become widespread. Special image processing algorithms have been developed. Often in such systems, to increase sensitivity, special cameras with a UVA lamp are used to analyze the microrelief. Microrelief creates the velvety appearance of young skin. With age, the surface of the skin becomes glossier and less velvety due to age-related smoothing of the microrelief. UV light is also well absorbed by melanin, which allows the use of UV dermatoscopy in the analysis of hidden pigmentation and signs of skin photoaging. The only drawback of these methods is the inability to calculate the depth of wrinkles. But for these purposes, the already mentioned silicone replica method was developed.

Salon procedures to restore the lipid layer of facial skin

Glycolic peeling

Glycolic peeling is a superficial chemical peel using glycolic acid as a base. Its advantage is that it is effective for all skin types and has no age restrictions (except for children under 15 years of age). It has been proven that glycolic acid, having a low molecular weight, very easily penetrates the upper layers of the skin and effectively moisturizes it.

In addition to a fairly accurate but enhanced softening of the dead layer, glycolic peeling exhibits an antioxidant effect and activates the production of collagen and elastin. As a result, the skin becomes smoother, it is restored, and the color is evened out.

The procedure begins with the cosmetologist applying a weak solution of glycolic acid to the face, which softens and degreases the desired area. Next, the glycolic gel itself is uniformly distributed: it is kept on the skin for literally a few minutes, after which it is removed with a neutralizing solution. Finally, a moisturizing or nourishing mask is made with a toning effect: the skin, freed from dead cells, can finally absorb the active ingredients of the mask.

Professionals advise carrying out glycolic peeling in courses consisting of 4–10 sessions, following the indications. Restrictions on the procedure: the presence of injuries and formations on the skin, pregnancy, hormonal therapy, etc. In addition, after the session it is forbidden to be in the sun. If you are still not ready for redness and flaking of the skin after peeling, there are less drastic ways to restore the lipid layer, for example, courses of masks with glycolic acid.

Biorevitalization with hyaluronic acid

Most care products applied in the form of creams or masks do not penetrate to the depth where their action is necessary, so they can give the skin freshness, but are unlikely to restore the lipid layer and guarantee long-term results. Sometimes, for a visible effect, cosmetologists advise resorting to injection methods, in particular biorevitalization.

This is a fairly new version of mesotherapy, which came to cosmetology from alternative medicine. The difference from the classical procedure is that high concentration hyaluronic acid of non-animal origin is used for biorevitalization. This product is designed to activate blood circulation in the layers of the skin, enhance the production of collagen and elastin. As a result, the skin becomes more elastic, tightness and dryness are reduced, small wrinkles are leveled out and the lipid layer is restored.

Like any serious procedure, biorevitalization has a number of contraindications - from breastfeeding to acute respiratory infections. Some scientists doubt the effectiveness of the method, but patients confirm its effectiveness by ordering a course not only for the face, but also for the neck, décolleté and even hands. Typically the course consists of four sessions. There is also non-injection biorevitalization, which involves treating the skin with an infrared athermal laser using a specialized gel.

Nowadays, you no longer have to spend a lot of time taking care of your skin or perform complex and unpleasant procedures at home. It is much easier to seek help from real professionals - the Veronika Herba beauty and health center, equipped with effective and modern equipment.

Why clients choose Veronika Herba Beauty and Health Center:

• This is a beauty center where you can take care of yourself at a reasonable cost, while your face and/or body will be treated not by an ordinary cosmetologist, but by one of the best dermatologists in Moscow. This is a completely different, higher level of service!
• You can receive qualified help at any time convenient for you. The beauty center is open from 9:00 to 21:00, seven days a week. The main thing is to agree with your doctor in advance on the date and time of your appointment.

Sign up for a consultation with a specialist by phone +7 (495) 085-15-13

, and you will see for yourself!

Hydrolipid mantle: structure, composition, functions

The top layer of our skin - the epidermis - is a protective barrier, a kind of “shield” that protects the skin from mechanical and chemical damage, exposure to allergens, bacteria and viruses.

It consists of several layers:

• horny;
• brilliant;
• grainy;
• spiny;
• basal.

Analysis of internal skin structures

Confocal microscopy is the most promising method for studying the cellular structure of living skin (in vivo). A confocal microscope allows you to see the physiological processes occurring in the skin and evaluate their changes over time. The method is non-contact - the beam of light does not cause harm or discomfort to the examined patient. To examine the skin, confocal scanning laser microscopy (CSLM) is used, which allows you to see in high resolution the structure of the epidermis and papillary dermis. The results are reflected on the monitor and stored in the form of microfilm or microphotographs. The method has two varieties. The first is reflectance laser microscopy (reflectance CSLM), which is based on the fact that different cell structures have different refractive indexes of light. A laser with a wavelength of 830 nm is used as a light source. The light passes through a special lens and is immersed into the skin to a depth of about 200 microns. The second type - the most promising - is fluorescent CSLM, which uses laser light of certain wavelengths that excite the fluorescence of exo- and endochromophores of the skin (Fig. 8). The system is equipped with a miniature fiber optic scanner with a dry lens that simultaneously illuminates the skin with laser light and detects fluorescence. The length of light that is illuminated on the skin depends on which molecules are the fluorophores. Confocal scanning laser microscopy is used to determine the penetration of compounds into the skin and study microcirculation.

Rice. 8. Micrograph of squamous epithelial cells obtained by fluorescence confocal microscopy. DNA in cell nuclei is colored blue, the Golgi apparatus is green (tiny green spots in the nuclear area), and actin fibrils located in the cytoplasm are colored purple. Authors: Tom Deerinck, NCMIR and UCSD, Source: cell.com

Optical coherence tomography (OCT) is a non-invasive research method that is increasingly used in medicine for diagnostic purposes. To obtain images of tissue using OCT, near-infrared light is used to illuminate the area of ​​skin being examined. The skin consists of structures of different densities and is therefore optically heterogeneous. When infrared light hits the boundary of two media with different densities, it is partially reflected and scattered. By analyzing the backscattering coefficient of optical radiation, information about the structure of the skin can be obtained. The received data is processed by a computer and converted into a two-dimensional image convenient for analysis. The resolution of the method is an order of magnitude greater than that of standard ultrasound and allows one to study tissue architecture. The information obtained by OCT is intravital and reflects not only the structure, but also the features of the functional state of tissues. Thus, the refractive index is very sensitive to water content, so information can be obtained about the hydration of the skin at different depths. Compared to confocal microscopy, the OCT method has a deeper penetrating ability.

The ultrasound diagnostic method also allows you to evaluate the thickness of different layers of the skin (A-mode of the sensor), their structure and the degree of their hydration (B-mode of the sensor). But in comparison with the OCT method, it has a lower resolution, since ultrasound uses acoustic disturbance, the wavelength of which is much longer than the wavelengths of optical radiation. The disadvantage of ultrasound and OCT methods is the high cost of equipment.